Was at home (Lowe's) today looking at toys for my LQ conversion.

Was wondering... would Romex wire be okay for use in my wiring?  It seems that I've seen folks using single-strand type wire to handle their 120-volt needs.  The Romex is available in 20A and 30A capacities and is intended to carry the electrical load.  Shouldn't I be using this stuff?  It isn't cheap, but it IS the right wire for the job in my opinion.

What amperage do "real" LQ companies use?  Is 20A adequate (I suspect so.)  The cost didn't seem too bad if I used 30A throughout... and it doesn't seem that more capacity could ever be a bad thing...

Also, any reason NOT to use conduit?  I envision using PVC conduit to route my electrical wiring.  The metal stuff is nice, but is heavier and conductive.  I feel safer going with PVC.  Thoughts?

Thanks again...  I'll post pictures of my progress once I have access to a digital camera.

Mike

I'll be running a microwave, fridge, TV, etc. which require 120V.

Mike

Mike,

Like maccwall says about the 12, that is likely for up to 20 amp service that is more than enough capacity for most any 110 volt appliances considering that most home plug-ins are rated @ 15 amps. Also, the larger size for 30 amp service would likely be 10 ga. wiring and would be hard to work with @ recepticles and such. Maybe 10 ga. wiring for the main circuit then broken down to 12 or possibly 14 ga. on the branch circuits. Let us know how things work out.

                                             Ardly

As far 110volt circuits. You can use 14 gauge wire for any 15 amp breakers, where you would just be running lights and other low voltage devices..  12 gauge for any 20 amp breakers, like where hair dryers might plug in.  Most of the appliances you mention will run off the 20 amp breakers.

I suspect if you a 250' roll of 12/2 with ground romex, 250 feet will do your whole trailer  No need tomix the 14 gauge into the trailer.

All the homes I build use the 15 amp breakers for Bedrooms, Family rooms etc. We use 20 amp breakers for Bathrooms, Kitchen, Garage, and dedicated circuits like Central Vac, Freezers or larger entertainment centers.

Most trailers only use the 30 Amp for their main breaker. So you might need to run 10gauge wire from the connection point outside the trailer to the main breaker.

I'll defer to those who know better for the 12 volt battery operated circuits.

Thank you for this information!  I know the house I'm in uses 20A breakers and I blow them all the time because of poor circuit layout.  2 heaters on one circuit -- bad.

I foresee 20A service throughout the trailer as being a minimum requirement for electric heat if I ever need to run a space heater, plus sustain other circuits that might plug in.

I tend to overbuild things, though.  But have never had any problems after doing so...

Mike

Look at your circuits and figure out what you think you might possibly plug into them.

A qquick rule of thumb is to take the Amp of the circuit x 80 or 20amp x 80 = 1600 watts as a safe operating limit.  So in this case you could not plug in two (2) 1500 watt hair dryers into the same circuit.

Maybe a more practical example would be a Microwave (@1200 watts) and a electric griddle ( @ 1200 watts) These two appliances together would over load a 20 amp breaker. So in a kitchen area, you may multiple circuits.

Where as a Microwave and several light bulbs would be just fine.

I really doubt you would run 30 amp to any one plug in the trailer. But rather install multiple 20 amps.

Just curious... what does 12/2, 13/3, etc. mean?  I take it that the first number is the gauge... what is the second?

Thank you,
Mike

Second number is the  number of conductors. Not counting the ground wire.  Unless you're talking portable extension cords.