I have an Exiss that was modified from a 3h to a 2h to add LQ. The original owners started putting in a LQ. It has all I need except holding tanks and an rv toilet. I went to a local rv place and they gave me aa estimate of a little over 2k to do the job. They are charging an outragous price for the holding tanks. There reason is that thaey have to be specail made tanks because of the cross beams under the trailer. Is this true or are they trying to take me for a ride. A friend told me that they cut out the cross beam to install tamks. Will this take away from the stucture & soundness of the trailer. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have no horse trailer dealers close by to take the trailer to.
Posted 2006-03-27 12:26 PM (#39602 - in reply to #39601) Subject: RE: Adding holding tanks
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 500
Location: West TN
I would measure the cross beams and then search the internet to see if you can find a RV place on the internet that has these tanks. Furthermore, you can see what companies do conversions for Exiss trailers and see if they would sell you the tanks that fit. I would not start to cut out the cross beams on the trailer. You are taking a risk of losing the structural integrity of your trailer in my opinion.
Posted 2006-03-27 12:48 PM (#39604 - in reply to #39601) Subject: RE: Adding holding tanks
Member
Posts: 26
Location: NJ
I feel for you, I'm having the same problem with my 4 star. The aluminum beams are 11" on center, with the flange on the beam only have 8- 3/4" between beams for a tank. Probably going to have them made.
Posted 2006-03-27 4:52 PM (#39611 - in reply to #39601) Subject: RE: Adding holding tanks
Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey
The problem is this, the conversion company that does Exiss trailers cuts that crossmember out then uses a 18" wide or 20" wide holding tank. They do it every day. I am like you all and don't want a 23" unsupported span in my trailer(I could go into the floors here but won't). The trailers I build I have tanks made out of .125 aluminum usually 10" wide and 68" long for 7' wides and 78" long for 8' wides, they are 7" deep on one end (valve) and 5.5" deep on the other( *^#@& runs down hill ). Two tanks cost me about $500. The ones the "Factory Conversion Folks" put under them cost about $100 ea.
Posted 2006-03-27 7:24 PM (#39621 - in reply to #39611) Subject: RE: Adding holding tanks
Veteran
Posts: 164
Location: Delaware
I have seen RV toilets raised with the holding tank underneath. I believe this is a whole unit. Check out the slide in campers and see if you can get an estimate on this. Everything should fit above the frame. All you would need is to cut out a hole for the discharge. I have also seen showers that sit on a small gray tank. I would look into something like this before cutting the frame of your trailer.
Posted 2006-03-27 9:55 PM (#39629 - in reply to #39621) Subject: RE: Adding holding tanks
Member
Posts: 45
Location: Houston, TX
Originally written by Rockinghorserun on 2006-03-27 7:24 PM
I have seen RV toilets raised with the holding tank underneath. I believe this is a whole unit. Check out the slide in campers and see if you can get an estimate on this. Everything should fit above the frame. All you would need is to cut out a hole for the discharge. I have also seen showers that sit on a small gray tank. I would look into something like this before cutting the frame of your trailer.
When you're looking for this, don't forget to look for toilets meant for marine use. I've seen similar in that type of online shop.
Also, there are some portable toilets (like porta-potti and, I believe, Sani-potti) that have larger capacity holding tanks that actually allow the toilet to be permanently installed and have an opening for pump out capability.
I think the most common solution is having the storage tank actually on top of your trailer floor but under the toilet.
Posted 2006-03-28 8:54 AM (#39638 - in reply to #39629) Subject: RE: Adding holding tanks
Member
Posts: 26
Location: NJ
My neighbor did that with he’s trailer which is also a 4-star. He’s trailer has a 112” long wall in the dressing room. He installed the shower and toilet to the back on slant wall like most of the manufactures do. He then installed a 60 gal tank which is 7 “high under the shower and toilet inside on the floor. The tank is built in under the bottom of sink and stove cabinet. It really turned out nice; you would never know it was there. He now wishes that it put a bigger tank in because he still has 2 -1/2’ of room. The one thing I really liked was the dump valve and hose pipe outlet were only hanging down about 1” below the bottom beams, also it’s protected from the cold and freezing. The one problem I have with it is, if you have a problem with the tank you have to remove your counter cabinet to repair the tank. The tank he installed was a marine grade tank, and is a good ¼” or more thick heavy duty plastic. So the chances of the tank getting damaged are very remote, I guess.