I have a '94 Trail-et New Yorker that I'm in the process of replacing the ramp. All of the steel supports are in great condition, but the inner plywood is starting to rot. Lucky for me, father is a great handyman, and this is not difficult for us to do on our own, however, I would like input on whether we should replace the plywood with A. 3/4" interior grade plywood B. 3/4" pressure treated plywood C. some other composite material that would be better suited than A or B. Any suggestions? I'm not concerned about cost, but more concerned about the quality of the repair. Since this is the first trailer ramp I've had the pleasure to tear apart, I'm wondering what other manufacturers use inside their ramps. The rubber skin is in perfect condition, and we will be attaching that back over top of the inner core of the ramp.
Posted 2005-09-11 6:22 PM (#30183 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
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Posts: 28 Location: decatur,ms
I helped replace one a few yrs back.We used marine grade plywood like is used in boats but pressure treated should be fine.We also sprayed the plywood with the rubber undercoating like is used on autos.
Posted 2005-09-11 6:43 PM (#30185 - in reply to #30183) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
Expert
Posts: 2689
For a RAMP where horses will WALK and MIGHT KICK !
You need "no voids" in the inside plies.
About the only thing different in
"Marine" ply is the use of waterproof glue.
I wouldn't bother with PT or Marine. Sure it will get wet, but 99% of the time it will be stood on edge and will drain. PT is only needed for things that will be in LONG TERM contact with the ground.
Posted 2005-09-11 6:45 PM (#30186 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
MCP... I would use the pressurre treaded plywood and consider where the water is coming from. If you are able to eliminate the water, you'll stop the rotting.
This is the most economical path, but I wish I could say I'm not concerned about cost. LOL Then I would chose a glass fiber reinforced hexacomb. Maybe even an aluminum ramp. Heck... forget the old trailer get a new one!
Posted 2005-09-11 6:58 PM (#30188 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
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Posts: 14
Location: south-central PA
I do know where the water is coming from, and that issue is soon to be resolved as well. Also, the trailer will be stored inside once the necessary repairs are finished. When I say cost is not an issue, it's only because safety & a good job are my top priorities- not the $$. I also like to fix things right the first time, and not end up repairing the same thing over & over again. My initial instinct tells me to use the pressure treated plywood, but I just didn't want to overlook a better option.
Posted 2005-09-11 7:18 PM (#30189 - in reply to #30188) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
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Posts: 2689
Originally written by MCPMalachi on 2005-09-11 6:58 PM
I do know where the water is coming from, and that issue is soon to be resolved as well. Also, the trailer will be stored inside once the necessary repairs are finished. When I say cost is not an issue, it's only because safety & a good job are my top priorities- not the $$. I also like to fix things right the first time, and not end up repairing the same thing over & over again. My initial instinct tells me to use the pressure treated plywood, but I just didn't want to overlook a better option.
About the only reasonable cost "better" option would be the stuff that glue-lams are made of, though I really don't know if you can buy that in sheet form. If I were doing this I'd check into the practicallity of using that stuff as boards.
No need for PT, since it won't be in continuous contact with the ground, there isn't a bugs issue.
No need for Marine, since it shouldn't be waterlogged for long periods of time.
A need for "no voids" since it will be stepped on by large equine pets.
Posted 2005-09-11 8:14 PM (#30192 - in reply to #30189) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
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Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Originally written by Reg on 2005-09-11 6:18 PM
"...No need for PT, since it won't be in continuous contact with the ground, there isn't a bugs issue. No need for Marine, since it shouldn't be waterlogged for long periods of time. A need for "no voids" since it will be stepped on by large equine pets..."
Reg ... I thought about PT not from the ground contact aspect ... but the fungi and rot aspect...
That's the cause of the present rotten wood situation. If the OP can eliminate the water, then I think ordinary plywood is okay.
Posted 2005-09-11 11:02 PM (#30200 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 366 Location: Albany, Oregon
I used to own a sailboat built in 1947 of plywood. In the old days the glue was different. Nowdays all plywoods use the same glue anymore. The big advantage of Marine grade is they have more plys (7) and no voids and tight grained, the best you can get! PT has voids and fewer plys(5?) and course grain. Seal the edges of the plywood before you install it and it will last for a long time.
Posted 2005-09-12 8:24 PM (#30248 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
Member
Posts: 14
Location: south-central PA
Where do I purchase Marine grade plywood? It sounds like a specialty item that my local lumber yard might not carry, or do they? The 3/4" PT sheet of plywood will run me about $40. The water was coming in the passenger side upper rear door, due to the last owner's lack of maintanence. I knew upon purchasing the trailer that I was going to be replacing the ramp, and really wasn't concerned about the repair. After fixing the upper door, I now have the water problem solved, but who knows how long rainwater had been pouring in that door. When we pulled the plywood out, it was so water logged that it actually seeped water when you applied pressure to it. The good part was that the driver's side of the ramp was solid, and the rot was contained to the corner of the passenger side of the ramp (about an 10" square area). Not one to take chances though, I want this fixed NOW!
Posted 2005-09-12 11:53 PM (#30262 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 366 Location: Albany, Oregon
Marine grade is hard to get unless you live near an area where lots of boatbuilding is going on. You should be able to order it at a good lumber yard and sit down before thye tell you how much....maybe $80.00 or more. I haven't bought any for some time. It is very strong and is nice stuff! I'm sure that none of the trailer manufactures use it. To much money! Was the old piece delaminated or rotten? Delamination is when the plys are not glued togeather anymore. Rotten the wood will just crumble. Even marine will delaminate or rot with time. It happens when the water gets into edge of the plys then swells and shrinks causing the glue area to fail. Seal the edges well. That will keep the water from soaking into the edge and causing a problem.
Posted 2005-09-13 8:05 AM (#30267 - in reply to #30182) Subject: RE: replacing ramp
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 366 Location: Albany, Oregon
Good paint works. If you want to fix it for life use epoxy( http://www.westsystem.com/ )and fiberglass tape just the edges. Make sure the plywood fits well and doesn't damage the edges when you assemble it.
replacing ramp
