Posted 2005-07-18 2:06 PM (#28196) Subject: taking my axle apart
Veteran
Posts: 140 Location: Colorado
Hi, I'm taking apart my hubs and brake drums. First off, I want to learn to do it, second, I want to check the magnets and brake shoes on my trailer. The brakes don't seem to be working properly. I have the wheel off and it turns out I have a Hayes Ultra Lube axel. I can see the cotter pin inside, there is a grease cup over it that appears to be aluminum. It won't come off easily, so either it's not supposed to come off or I need a tool to help (seems it would have to come off somehow). Picture attached. Any suggestions for removing it gently? I definitely don't want to mangle it...
I did print off the service manual from Dexter, I cannot find a good service manual online for this assembly. Seems like it's very similar to the AL-KO heavy duty axels?
THANKS in advance! I will likely be back soon with more questions. The good thing is I will get a bunch of pictures for my website, so hopefully some other folks can benefit from my axel adventure. :-)
Posted 2005-07-18 3:06 PM (#28200 - in reply to #28196) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Member
Posts: 22
Location: Houston, TX
It looks to me like that is a cap (dust cover) that pushes into the end of the axle. You should be able to pry it off.
If it where me, I get after it with some channel locks real easily so as not to tear it up. Think about it. It has to come off becuase there is no other way to get the hub off. Right?
Posted 2005-07-18 4:14 PM (#28202 - in reply to #28196) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Member
Posts: 27 Location: Saltillo, Tn
The silver cup in the picture is the dust cap. I usually take a screwdriver or small chisel and tap it with a hamper where the dust cap and the hub meet. It usually isn't every hard to get off. The rubber stopper in the middle of the dust cap is where you can remove the stopper and grease the bearings. I would not recommend doing this because if you over grease the bearings and the grease get's on the brake hub and shoes you have problems. If you need to replace the shoes or magnet, it is usually cheaper to buy the complete assembly rather than the separate parts.
Posted 2005-07-18 5:08 PM (#28204 - in reply to #28202) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Member
Posts: 19
Location: Louisiana
tnmulerider is correct. that is the dust cap & it will pry off like he said. but, if you didn't know that, you need a trailer mechanic to do this job. you can watch & learn and maybe do it yourself next time. if your brakes are not working correctly, it can be the wires or the ground. if it is the brake parts, you are better off to buy a backer plate assembly. also turn the drum.
Posted 2005-07-18 5:47 PM (#28205 - in reply to #28204) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Veteran
Posts: 140 Location: Colorado
Thanks. The directions I had said to unscrew the dustcap (apparently the Dexters come off that way). Mine did pry off with channel locks, applied carefully.
Its now fully disassembled and there is a lot of grease that had leaked past the back seal and onto the brake drum assembly. The bearing area was packed solid in grease.
The rotor and magnets are in OK shape on this wheel (someone checked them for me). Still need to check amps at the magnet, linings, etc. I will have help with repacking after I have it cleaned & ready to re-assemble.
Posted 2005-07-18 5:50 PM (#28206 - in reply to #28196) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Expert
Posts: 2828 Location: Southern New Mexico
Those look like my axls. The cover comes off. I used a flathead screwdriver and a mallet. My brakes weren't working quite right, I couldn't feel them when I stepped onteh brake, but when I slid the bar on the controler, they worked. Turned out that the "balance" thing on the controller wasn't quite right. Adjusted that and now they work fine.
Posted 2005-07-19 7:40 AM (#28228 - in reply to #28196) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Expert
Posts: 2689
Cool, nothing like a bit of greasy DIY (-:
I'm late on this thread, but I'll add a couple of tips anyway:
Use a broad flat blade and fairly blunt screwdriver to loosen dust caps. Just tap it gently until the cap budges a little bit, them put it in there squarely and twist. I've said this before, do NOT pry out the rubber plug with a small screwdriver, it is far too likely to tear, after which water will get in there.
OK, so you've already inspected and seen that your rear seal is trashed.
There is a common trick of using large sockets to drift out bearings and seals, also to replace them. Basically you sort through your 1/2 inch drive socket set to find a socket that has an outside diameter that is just slighly smaller than the bearing or seal. Put it onto about a 6 inch extension bar the wrong way around - you just built a custom sized drift. Use it FLAT against the seal and tap the other end lightly with a hammer.
You will probably be replacing the cups, find the largest socket you can get through the hub to drive out the rear one, similarly the front one. Use the same technique for installing the new ones, but be sure to use the largest possible socket here because you don't want to be driving against the actual bearing surface. In some cases you can use the old ones to drive the new ones in, don't do that if they are recessed or you will get the old one stuck on top of the new one - don't ask how I know this (-:
The Dexter lit almost certainly spells this out, but only tighten the axle nut FINGER tight - and I mean with a light grip, not a hard tight fist.
Then back it off whatever amount the Dexter lit sez to - I use one "nut flat" if there is no spec to work from. Dexter have gone to a different locking device, a sort of spring nut with a flat on it to match the flat ground on the axle's spindle. I like them, though they may not be retro fittable to all axles.
Brakes are probably best checked first for current draw, it should be about 3 amps and they should all be the same. This is something we could/should do every trip; feel them to find one that is hotter or colder than the others. Now that they're off look for magnets that are physically worn to odd shapes, bevelled, etc. Try to understand WHY one has worn differently, try to fix the underlying CAUSE, not just the symptom.
Don't worry about blowing out new/good seals with a hand grease gun.
If you STILL believe they can only be hand packed you can use the "palm of the hand" technique that Dexter describes, or for about $10 or $15 buy a gadget that consists of two plastic cones on a hollow shaft. You put the bearing on the shaft between the two cones, screw the top one down "hand tight" and pump grease into the end of the shaft. The grease is forced through the bearing and appears down the outside of the lower cone. This is a LOT easier to understand if you see one - ask to see a manual bearing greasing tool. If you buy one keep it in a zip loc bag, there will be quite a bit of surplus grease around.
Posted 2005-07-19 8:45 AM (#28233 - in reply to #28228) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Veteran
Posts: 140 Location: Colorado
Thank you Reg! I can benefit from all the tips I can get. :-) While I was under there, I found the adjacent brake has a severed brake wire. There's a lot of interesting stuff to check out in the underbelly of the trailer.
The ground to this brake is well attached with a rivet, but it's rusted over. I am thinking it should be removed, cleaned, replaced, yes?
Hopefully this is like tying a rope halter, and it's only the first one that takes all day to figure out. :-)
Posted 2005-07-19 10:03 AM (#28244 - in reply to #28233) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Expert
Posts: 2689
Originally written by NoSpam on 2005-07-19 8:45 AM
Thank you Reg! I can benefit from all the tips I can get. :-) While I was under there, I found the adjacent brake has a severed brake wire. There's a lot of interesting stuff to check out in the underbelly of the trailer.
The ground to this brake is well attached with a rivet, but it's rusted over. I am thinking it should be removed, cleaned, replaced, yes?
Hopefully this is like tying a rope halter, and it's only the first one that takes all day to figure out. :-)
Happy Trails,
Michelle
I don't know that I would go to drilling out rivets to re-ground brake wires if it is just a bit of surface rust. If it is secure I'd maybe dab some rust primer over it. OTOH, if the wire lug can easily be turned in the rivet then yes, you have a poor connection.
Think ahead a bit on this, if you drill the rivet out what will you replace it with ? "An aluminum pop rivet" is probably not a good answer, but a stainless steel pop rivet is HARD to pull in and make pop, especially in a tight space, a stainless steel thread forming screw might be a good choice - as long as you don't overtighten it.
Right now Massachusetts is having a heat and humidity wave, it is NOT a good day to go crawling under horse trailers, however fascinating the mechanical stuff might be.
Posted 2005-07-20 9:45 AM (#28301 - in reply to #28244) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Veteran
Posts: 140 Location: Colorado
I've been using the self tapping steel screws for my ground wires. We do have an air rivet gun and steel rivets... (husband builds utility DSL boxes for their company sometimes)
However, I thought about covering the brakes up and clean/degrease/paint the wheel wells while it's disassembled. Think that's a good idea? It looks like sealing things up couldn't possibly hurt...
I have the trailer parked under a big shade tree, and it's probably cooler working outside than it is inside. :-) It's a dry heat here...
Posted 2005-07-21 6:35 AM (#28350 - in reply to #28233) Subject: RE: taking my axel apart
Expert
Posts: 1416 Location: sc
Originally written by NoSpam on 2005-07-19 9:45 AM
Thank you Reg! I can benefit from all the tips I can get. :-) While I was under there, I found the adjacent brake has a severed brake wire. There's a lot of interesting stuff to check out in the underbelly of the trailer.
The ground to this brake is well attached with a rivet, but it's rusted over. I am thinking it should be removed, cleaned, replaced, yes?
Hopefully this is like tying a rope halter, and it's only the first one that takes all day to figure out. :-)
Happy Trails,
Michelle
michelle,
since youre already in there, i have a suggestion you may want to consider. you stated the brakes are grounded to the tralier, most newer trailers have a dedicated ground wire run from the tow vechicle. you may want to consider pulling a new wire, you can get "brake" wire from a trailer store, it will usually be in a gray cover with a black and a white wire inside. this may also head off a potential problem if youre useing a newer style (prodigy, likes a really good ground) brake controller. just a thought.
taking my axle apart
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