Posted 2005-07-17 5:47 PM (#28158) Subject: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Member
Posts: 8
Location: colfax, wa
Help, I am stumped. I need to replace the rubber on my rear trailer door latches. It is a 1990 Circle J, 2 horse straight load with the 3 piece back gate. I have been using felt, but the vibration wears this down quickly. It is the middle section of the metal where it comes in contact with the latch. See attached image file. Any ideas on what might work?
In addition, anyone know if adding shocks using a retrofit kit would help the trailer ride better? It has the old spring axles, and I have seen people do this with their RV's. Anyone tried this? upgrading to torsion is too cost prohibitive since this is an older trailer.
I am trying to upgrade my trailer a little to appease me for the next 2 years until I can upgrade to a new model. Thanks!
Posted 2005-07-17 6:59 PM (#28160 - in reply to #28158) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Expert
Posts: 1989 Location: South Central OK
I had a similar problem (and build) a few years ago. I took my trailer to a local trailer repair place and they installed some white hard plastic circles that have a screw through the middle. They replaced the old black rubber ones that looked the same.
Posted 2005-07-17 7:03 PM (#28162 - in reply to #28158) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Expert
Posts: 2689
If you mean what I think you mean...
My solution was heavy duty (probably gov surplus, originally about $600 of tax payer's money per inch) large diamter heat shrink tubing. I havn't done all of them, but the two I did are the most used and have held up very well. It is so long ago that I don't remember, but I at least considered doing double layers. Don't build it up too much or it won't go into the latch.
This stuff isn't rubber, though it has the resiliency of a rubber, it doesn't seem to deteriorate in wind, rain, salt laden road slush, or the sunlight that Massachusetts sometimes gets.
Just mark the lever where it goes into the latch, allow about 1/4 inch each side, REMOVE THE LEVER from the trailer, cut the shrink tubing to length, find a time when you can have exclusive use of the kitchen and do it over the stove. Hold the lever with pliers, my levers are alumin and that stuff DOES conduct heat very well.
The last time I dealt with trailer shocks I think I found something by Gabriel (check the spelling). They were the only ones available in a suitable diameter that were also short enough to fit. If your trailer is very old you will probably have trouble finding sound metal underneath that you can weld to, both axle and trailer frame. Don't even THINK about trying to use a MIG gun under there - just STICK IT !
BTW, a good time to do this would be when you have the floor out and can do it FROM THE TOP ! so if you are close to needing a new floor...
Posted 2005-07-17 7:13 PM (#28163 - in reply to #28160) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Expert
Posts: 2689
Originally written by huntseat on 2005-07-17 6:59 PM
I had a similar problem (and build) a few years ago. I took my trailer to a local trailer repair place and they installed some white hard plastic circles that have a screw through the middle. They replaced the old black rubber ones that looked the same.
I hope my answer isn't vague...
I blundered in with my reply while you were writing (-:
From what you wrote it now seems that you had something like nylon washers installed ?? - maybe I read it wrong.
From what I wrote - it should be obvious that I was writing about a general solution to snugging butterfly latch bars into their latches, not the op's particular latches.
Posted 2005-07-17 9:50 PM (#28166 - in reply to #28158) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Expert
Posts: 1989 Location: South Central OK
Reg, I was shooting in the dark with my reply...I didn't get the question exactly. I saw the picture but couldn't see anything missing/wrong. One of us got it I'm sure.
Posted 2005-07-17 9:51 PM (#28167 - in reply to #28160) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Member
Posts: 8
Location: colfax, wa
Are speaking of adding plastic washers to the latch itself, not the metal arm? Hmmm, never looked at it from that perspective. That might work too, I'll check it out.Thanks
Posted 2005-07-17 10:04 PM (#28170 - in reply to #28162) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Member
Posts: 8
Location: colfax, wa
This sounds like a good idea, but the only way I can figure out to take the arms off, is by cutting them off..LOL.
Re: the shocks. This is the kit I found from Monroe http://www.monroeheavyduty.com/monroeHDdetail.asp?sec=prd&page=retrofit_kit Was yours similar to this? Luckily, my trailer was one of the first completely electro-galvanized trailers, and the body and frame are nearly rust free, other than a few flecks of surface rust underneath. Other than the paint peeling on one side, and the rubber worn off on the handles, it still looks new. So, I don't think finding a sound spot to weld too will be a problem.
Did adding shocks improve the ride? My husband is convinced that it won't help at all, given the spring axle base. Thanks!
Posted 2005-07-17 10:17 PM (#28171 - in reply to #28166) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Member
Posts: 8
Location: colfax, wa
Just to make sure we are all on the same page, I added arrows to the photo; indicating where the rubber is missing. I probably have my terminology incorrect. Hope this helps.
Posted 2005-07-18 10:16 AM (#28185 - in reply to #28170) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Expert
Posts: 2689
Originally written by akweaver on 2005-07-17 10:04 PM
This sounds like a good idea, but the only way I can figure out to take the arms off, is by cutting them off..LOL.
Re: the shocks. This is the kit I found from Monroe http://www.monroeheavyduty.com/monroeHDdetail.asp?sec=prd&page=retrofit_kit Was yours similar to this? Luckily, my trailer was one of the first completely electro-galvanized trailers, and the body and frame are nearly rust free, other than a few flecks of surface rust underneath. Other than the paint peeling on one side, and the rubber worn off on the handles, it still looks new. So, I don't think finding a sound spot to weld too will be a problem.
Did adding shocks improve the ride? My husband is convinced that it won't help at all, given the spring axle base. Thanks!
The arms on my trailers' butterfly latches are all attached with a bolt (and nut) that also acts as a pivot, so although the hinge part is welded to the trailer the arm part can be easily detached.
The monroe kits appear to be all bolt up, though MAY require some drilling.
I didn't find those when I did my little trailer shocks project - that was in the days BEFORE the web, though I did have wais, gopher, etc.
You really DO NOT want to be welding on galvanised steel anyway - it is a poisonous fumes issue and you lose the zinc coating around the welded area.
There is at least a chance that your trailer frame is already drilled for a shocks kit, worth checking into.
Posted 2005-07-18 10:46 AM (#28188 - in reply to #28158) Subject: RE: Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
Veteran
Posts: 114 Location: Mobile, AL
What about using some of the spray on bedliner stuff? I know you can get in small spray cans at wal-mart. I think if you tape it off well you should be able to match what was there pretty well. Many of the companies that apply this stuff use a tape that has a strip of metal on the edge of the tape to give a nice clean edge where the tape is pulled off.
Ideas on replacing rubber on rear trailer latch
