Posted 2014-03-03 9:25 AM (#157797) Subject: Trailer Interior Light
Regular
Posts: 79 Location: pineville,mo
I cannot find why my center strings of fluorescent lights will not work,fuses seem fine,have checked bulbs seem fine there are four and each has 2 18" round bulbs in each one,any ideas appreciated
Posted 2014-03-03 11:29 AM (#157801 - in reply to #157797) Subject: RE: Trailer Interior Light
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448 Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
A little more info....Did they ever work? are they 12v and not 120v? Do you have a battery( not the breakaway battery )? Is the battery charged? Did they used to work with the truck connected? With all four not working, I would suspect a voltage supply problem. Post a little more info.
Posted 2014-03-03 12:07 PM (#157802 - in reply to #157797) Subject: RE: Trailer Interior Light
Regular
Posts: 79 Location: pineville,mo
They was working fine,we have the converter and the 2 battery set up and they won't work when hooked to 110 or just 12 volt, the switch is on a 3 way switch plate and the other 2 lights,porch and dinette lights both work fine,IF you have one bulb bad will it keep all the others that are even not in same fixture from working,i think I remember replacing one of the bulbs a couple years ago and the rest still was working,this is a very nice Hart lq trailer.......
Posted 2014-03-03 12:09 PM (#157803 - in reply to #157801) Subject: RE: Trailer Interior Light
Regular
Posts: 79 Location: pineville,mo
Maybe go ahead and replace ALL the 12 volt fuses in panel ,might be a cheap fix that I just can't see the one that's bad,but I figured ,the ceiling light and dinnett and porch light would be on the same one.
Posted 2014-03-03 12:32 PM (#157804 - in reply to #157797) Subject: RE: Trailer Interior Light
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448 Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
Hi
Sounds like the fixtures are 12v. It would be very unusual to have all of the bulbs powered by a single ballast so I get back to a voltage supply problem. Since the other lights are working properly, it sounds like you have voltage to the switch area. The switch that turns on the fluorescent lights could be bad. Take off the cover and see if you are getting 12v to the switch and coming out of the switch when it is turned on. ( use a test light...hook up clip to ground and use pointed probe to wire ) If test light lights up when switch is turned on, there could be a loose wire nut at the first fixture.
I have had those switches go bad with three fl. fixtures on them. They generally can't take the amperage required for that many fixtures. I have replaced that type of fixture with LED type and they work great.
If you find 12v at the fixture, it is possible that the ballast is burned out....switches starting to go bad can cause that problem. It would be unusual for all four to go bad at the same time but is possible.
First things first...check for voltage at switch and coming out of switch when it is turned on. You can pick up an automotive test light just about anywhere....Sears, Pep Boys,Napa...probe point to wire, ground clip to any clean(unpainted) part of the metal frame. If you check for voltage at fixture, clip to one wire and probe to other.
Try all of above and report back.
Posted 2014-03-03 12:53 PM (#157805 - in reply to #157797) Subject: RE: Trailer Interior Light
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448 Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
Don't go changing all the fuses...you can check them while they are in the panel.....just like the light switch with the test light...Attach clip to ground (could be a bus bar with a lot of white wires attached) and pointed end to each fuse contact point. A bad fuse will have only one side of the fuse lighting up the test light.
Holler back when you make progress
Trailer Interior Light
