My local trailer place quoted me $450 in LABOR ALONE, to do the following:
- Install corner upright water tank
- Install marine grade/deep cycle/12v battery
- Run spigot or hose bib or whatever you call it on the OUTSIDE so we have faucet on outside of trailer from the water tank just inside....(does that make sense?)

I had this set up on my last trailer and I know my very handy husband (contractor skills) can install the water tank, but how hard is it to install the BATTERY? We want to use a sure-flo-pump because I like the pressurized water to use for bathing (horses and humans) and I want the pump and interior lights to be able to run off the new additional battery.

Can a really handy husband do this? Again - I know we can do the water tank install, even cutting the little hole and putting the bit of plumbing to create the outside spigot, but I just don't know about the BATTERY. It seems we'd have to hook it into the electrical system somehow. He does electric work on our house....I bet if he looked at one for reference he could.

But thought I'd ask YOU GUYS!!! Can this be done by a handy person with contractor-skills? (he remodels houses and does a ton of DIY including plumbing and basic electric)

The battery installation is actually fairly easy with a basic electrical aptitude. From your truck will be a hot wire that most probably supplies the interior lighting. The trailer's pig tail from the plug usually ends at a terminal strip, underneath the goose area or sometimes inside the trailer. If you splice into that terminal, you'll have a hot wire that will run to your B+ battery terminal. The battery ground terminal (-) will be grounded to the trailer's structure.

The battery should be located in an enclosed battery box and as was previously stated, should be externally vented, by direct holes or vent piping. There should be a securing system to locate and hold the battery in place within the box.

From the B+ terminal, you should install a 15 amp breaker and a 14 AWG stranded wire leading to your water pump. The pump will have two leads, one a hot wire and the other a ground. The B+ wire goes to a single pole, single throw on/off switch, and then to the hot side of the pump. The other wire is grounded to the trailer's structure.

When you install a vertical water tank, the supplied nylon straps have had many complaints about properly securing the tank in place. Many of these straps have been replaced by gas tank stainless straps, secured in place with SS sheet metal screws and padded using foam pipe insulation. It is also advisable to build a small platform onto which the tank will be supported off the floor. The will allow you to install an interior spigot by which you can both fill a bucket and drain the tank, without having to use any outside plumbing.

I also read the same poor reviews on the nylon straps that "come with" the tanks. We'll use something stronger....whether it is the metal straps used on hot water heater tanks or just heavier-duty tie-downs.

One thing my husband doesn't do is welding (we both wish we could weld...such a handy skill) so I'm not sure we can attach the battery box/platform thing (unless it can just be bolted/screwed on....at the front of the gooseneck, outside)

http://tweetys.com/batteryboxestraysandholddowns.aspx

http://www.thefind.com/electronics/info-rv-battery-tray

http://www.nocousa.com/pdf/Noco-Catalog-Battery-Storage.pdf

QUESTION - the battery in my old trailer was just in a plastic box like the ones in the links,and it was in the dressing/tack room. But I understand they should be vented and I see tons of them on the front/outside under the gooseneck. If I put it there, do I just buy this plastic battery case, plus some sort of metal shelf/rack? Or should I get the really expensive metal battery box?

The easiest way is to mount a plastic box with a vent like this one inside the forward tack area:

http://www.rvpartscountry.com/RV-Batteries-Fans-Accessories_c_317-4-1.html

The box can be placed under a step or inside storage areas and vented to the exterior. If the battery is going to be located on the outside of the forward bulkhead, a strong bracket will have to be fabricated. The battery can weigh up to ~50# and the bracket should be strong enough to handle double or even triple that amount. If you traverse rough back roads, the stronger the bracket, the better.

Find a fab shop and have one made of the same material as your trailer, IE steel or aluminum. Use the appropriate hardware to secure the bracket, bolts, locking nuts and large skin washers. Do not use sheet metal screws. The battery can be protected from the elements inside a plastic box, mounted onto the battery's platform.

thanks for the link the battery box with vent. I think it saves space inside (I only have a 33" short wall dressing/front tack room) to put it on the outside bulkhead under the neck. But like you said, sounds like a job for professionals - to ensure the brackets and platform are really solid enough to carry the battery

450.00,, thats all?

That shop, electrical, employees, taxes aint free,, remeber 52% of that bill is going directly to the government.

I already bought the same water pump as my last trailer had - a Shur-Flo and switch. It will be connected to the corner water tank.

Seperately, I'm getting something like this Eccotemp portable Tankless Water Heater, which we'll use mostly at the barn (at home) and occassionaly take camping if we are really boondocking.
http://www.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-l5-portable-tankless-water-heater/

Edited by Fancy That 2013-05-29 9:52 PM