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novice asking some advice about 1st LQ

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tylersmom
Reg. Mar 2012
Posted 2012-03-04 5:44 PM (#141666)
Subject: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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Posts: 5

Location: pacific NW
i am a newbie venturing into buying my 1st LQ- alot to learn! i'm hoping to get some sage advice from everyone who has already been there -* is a water heater bypass a necessity or a nice-to-have option?* i have a 1200lb 16'1" warmblood who fits easily into his 35" pad-to-pad straight load stall. any advice about warmblood slant load sizing (about 36" width) vs regular slant loads (which in model i'm looking at would give him about 30" stall width)-better to have a little extra width, or better with less room because it might give more support when they're riding sideways?appreciate your thoughts!
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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2012-03-04 6:02 PM (#141667 - in reply to #141666)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ



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Location: Northern Utah

Look into the appliances in the trailers you are considering.  Do they run on Propane, 110v Electric, 12v electric or a combination.  I was really frustrated with my 1st LQ to learn that almost all of the trailer need 110v electricity.  I primative camp and there are no hook ups where I go. So I had to buy and haul a generator with me every trip.

If you only camp at camp grounds with Hook ups.  No big deal.  If you find yourself in fairground parking lots or back country forests. It may be nice to have hot water from a propane water heater vs an electric heater.  Think of how you camp and what appliances you will want to use and see if there is an option that suits your camping style.  Some appliances like Microwaves and A/C will only run on 110v. But other appliances such as lights, water heaters, refridgerators etc will have the option.

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randemtam
Reg. Jun 2007
Posted 2012-03-04 7:16 PM (#141669 - in reply to #141666)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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If you have a large, long horse consider an 8ft wide trailer. You will be able to get larger stalls and your horse will be more comfortable. I think the bypass for the water heater is for winterizing....ours has one but we live in Florida. No need for winterizing but nice to have if you have to drain it for some reason. You will get many 'thoughts' on these items and more. Do a search for the things you are interested in and I'm sure many threads will come up to help answer your questions. Good luck with your new endeavor!
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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2012-03-04 10:51 PM (#141675 - in reply to #141666)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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A heater by pass system isn't manditory, but will pay for itself the first time you winterize your heater. If your heater holds 5-6 gals, that means you will have to purchase that much antifreeze just to flush the water out of the heater, not including the rest of the system.

This year on sale, I paid ~$5 a gal for RV antifreeze. If my system held a total of 7 gals, including the heater, that would be an expense of $35 a year. Over the life span of your ownership, two little valves and a piece of tubing proves to be very expensive.

A water system can also be purged with air, whilst only using the antifreeze in the various traps. This would only involve using a part of a gallon to protect the various drain plumbing.

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tylersmom
Reg. Mar 2012
Posted 2012-03-04 11:06 PM (#141677 - in reply to #141666)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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Posts: 5

Location: pacific NW
thanks everyone!
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gonzo1066
Reg. Oct 2010
Posted 2012-03-05 5:46 PM (#141700 - in reply to #141675)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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Location: Sumas Washington
Originally written by gard on 2012-03-04 8:51 PM

A heater by pass system isn't manditory, but will pay for itself the first time you winterize your heater. If your heater holds 5-6 gals, that means you will have to purchase that much antifreeze just to flush the water out of the heater, not including the rest of the system.

This year on sale, I paid ~$5 a gal for RV antifreeze. If my system held a total of 7 gals, including the heater, that would be an expense of $35 a year. Over the life span of your ownership, two little valves and a piece of tubing proves to be very expensive.

A water system can also be purged with air, whilst only using the antifreeze in the various traps. This would only involve using a part of a gallon to protect the various drain plumbing.

Have I been winterizing incorrectly all these years??   I have been pulling the anoroid out of the bottom of the water heater, turning the bypass valve and then just using a gallon and a bit on RV antifreeze to purge the lines. 



Edited by gonzo1066 2012-03-05 5:47 PM
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BlazingCreekBar
Reg. Nov 2008
Posted 2012-03-05 8:59 PM (#141706 - in reply to #141666)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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gonzo1066  You kill me

That is exactly the way to winterize...  And if your good drain it back ito the gal and use it again next year.

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2012-03-05 10:17 PM (#141708 - in reply to #141666)
Subject: RE: novice asking some advice about 1st LQ


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Posts: 5870
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Location: western PA

Have I been winterizing incorrectly all these years??   I have been pulling the anoroid out of the bottom of the water heater, turning the bypass valve and then just using a gallon and a bit on RV antifreeze to purge the lines. 

That's the way it can be done if you have a by pass valve system. If you don't, you can't isolate the water tank from the rest of the system, and end up pushing antifreeze through the heater into your hot water system to flush it out.

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