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2H Gooseneck Recommendations

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Last activity 2012-02-17 6:43 PM
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duckwhisperer
Reg. Feb 2012
Posted 2012-02-16 1:10 PM (#141081)
Subject: 2H Gooseneck Recommendations


New User


Posts: 2

Location: Plainfield
Hi - we are hoping to upgrade from our old 2H bumperpull this year to a 2H gooseneck with dressing room. We like to camp with our horses and do multiday trail rides. The gooseneck is desirable because we're tired of sleeping on the ground and packing up wet tents! We don't need a full LQ nor can we afford one. We like our truck - it is a 2010 Tundra with the 5.7L engine, double cab, 6.5 ft. bed. I realize that this truck limits us to a very light gooseneck, even though it can pull up to 10K lbs. I understand the whole kingpin weight thing and can do the calculations. I figure that we need to find one with an empty weight under 4K lbs. as a good starting point. I have been trying to research goosenecks to find the ones that are the lightest in weight but these specs are seldom available online. Ideally, we'd like a 2H slant or stock combo, all aluminum. Recommendations? Thanks in advance.
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CoughlinShadow
Reg. Dec 2011
Posted 2012-02-16 1:19 PM (#141083 - in reply to #141081)
Subject: RE: 2H Gooseneck Recommendations


Member


Posts: 23

Location: London, OHIO
Hi there, check out the coughlinshadow.com trailers for sale here on the site. or email us sales@coughlinshadow.com We build a perfect unit for your truck! 3300 lbs 2H GN with a dress! Looking forward to hearing from you!
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terri s
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-02-16 3:07 PM (#141093 - in reply to #141081)
Subject: RE: 2H Gooseneck Recommendations


Elite Veteran


Posts: 824
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Location: Kansas
This isn't an ad for my trailer but just to give you an idea of weight/size. I have a 2H GN, all aluminum, with a 2' shortwall. It weighs just under 4000#. It's a 1996 and well built; my plate says 2800# but when I scale weighed it, I came up with more like 3850. I pulled it successfully for many years with a Dodge Dakota V8. I think you'd be fine with your Tundra but you won't want much more trailer than this. I camp in mine at horse shows. It fits a queen sized mattress and with careful packing and arranging works fine for a weekend for me.
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duckwhisperer
Reg. Feb 2012
Posted 2012-02-16 3:22 PM (#141094 - in reply to #141081)
Subject: RE: 2H Gooseneck Recommendations


New User


Posts: 2

Location: Plainfield
Thanks. That's good to know. What brand is your trailer? So far, it looks like Shadow has a few models in the right weight range. I know that Sundowner also has a Rancher Special model that is under 4,000. I know that its frowned upon to use this forum for advertising, but I need brand names in order to do research. I won't be offended, I promise!
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Duckman
Reg. Oct 2004
Posted 2012-02-16 4:36 PM (#141100 - in reply to #141081)
Subject: RE: 2H Gooseneck Recommendations


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Posts: 201
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Most major(Elite, Platinum, 4Star,etc) aluminum trailer manufacturers build trailers that will weigh 250-300# per foot of box. A 2H GN, aluminum, 14' box, will weigh 4,000 lbs and under. Steel framed will weigh more and all steel will weigh more. So the answer is almost any aluminum trailer will be within your requirements. I would think that the lightest weight trailer may not be the best value?

Edited by Duckman 2012-02-16 4:38 PM
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gabz
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2012-02-17 6:43 PM (#141156 - in reply to #141081)
Subject: RE: 2H Gooseneck Recommendations



Expert


Posts: 1391
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Location: North of Detroit, MI

For weekend camping, you may wish to go to a 3H. Use the front stall for hay, portable grill, etc. Get a stallion panel to keep everything in the front stall. I also hang extra stuff in the front stall.

I"m hauling a 3H slant Titan Avalanche (all steel) with 4' short wall with an F150, 5.4 litre truck.  It weighed 5,000 when I bought it. I removed some stuff (steel saddle rack) and added insulation, wood paneling, cabinets, counter & small sink to the living area. I have a 48 gallon vertical water tank at the back of the trailer to "counter-balance" it somewhat. I do NOT have a rear tack (that's where the water tank is). I store my saddle in the sleeping area or put a saddle rack in the front stall. I hang my saddle pads inside on the rear door along with a grooming organizer. Typically I only haul 1 horse and where I haul is NOT mountainous by any stretch of the imagination.

One dilemma a friend encountered. The front of her trailer is tapered 2 ways - and ends with a pointed front. Mine is tapered but has a squared front. I was able to insulate within the framework and get a short queen mattress in my Goose area. She could not because of the shape of her front. (She has a Titan Renegade).

You want to be sure to keep your "payload" as low as possible. Only 20% of everything you put in the trailer is actually carried by the truck. Many people put heavy ice chests and hay in the pickup truck which increases the payload on the truck. This is why adding 3' to the trailer with a 3rd stall and putting some stuff there is a better alternative. Even having a 4' short wall over a 2' short wall will give you the room to load the LQ area which can be taken out once you arrive at your destination. Really cool is to have a doorway between the LQ and the front stall. You can then have a portable potty that's easy to get to but out of your living space.

AND remember, you also need stopping power.

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