I took my 1993 2H BP to a local trailer shop to get an interior and loading light installed. He did a nice job installing it, but I was disappointed to learn that the lights will only work when the key is in the ignition and turned on (not running, just on for the battery). I specifically asked to make the lights available even when the key is not in the truck. The trailer repair guy told me that my truck is configured this way as a safety measure to ensure that I don't leave the lights on accidentally. I think its a dumb idea since I'll be more likely to leave my keys in the truck. I drive a 2010 F350 diesel. Is what the trailer repair guy says true?
Posted 2011-12-23 5:56 PM (#139647 - in reply to #139646) Subject: RE: Trailer Loading Lights
Expert
Posts: 3802 Location: Rocky Mount N.C.
Is what the trailer repair guy says true? Yes.
Ignition switch has to be on for the "load lights" to work using a late model FoMoCo vehicle. You can install a battery inside the trailer that would operate the lights whether the truck was plugged in or not. Wire the battery so the truck recharges it while traveling. My 2 horse bumper pull GORE as well as the 4 STAR and the Silver Star is wired that way. I also have a 110 volt battery minder wired in the system so the batteries can be charged for AC current.
Posted 2011-12-23 9:40 PM (#139650 - in reply to #139646) Subject: RE: Trailer Loading Lights
Elite Veteran
Posts: 798 Location: Tenn/Ala.
It is entirely possible to run a fused line straight from the truck battery to the plug that would be "hot" 24-7. We did it that way for years when we had to hardwire trucks in the 90's.
I haven"t done a '10, but in years past I have jumpered through a Ford relayed circuit like yours to keep the fused protection but make it hot full time. Just a matter of finding the particular relay and wiring "through" it. And yes- you can kill your batteries that way...But it is also easy to undo at any time.
So yes- what he says is true. But there are some fairly easy solutions if you want them.
Posted 2011-12-23 10:32 PM (#139651 - in reply to #139646) Subject: RE: Trailer Loading Lights
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Starting a diesel with dead batteries can be a chore. One light, inadvertenly left on over night can ruin your next day. Swapping out the lights with LEDs costs a bit, but will result in much less current draw when you're jumping the relay.
Posted 2011-12-24 6:52 AM (#139653 - in reply to #139646) Subject: RE: Trailer Loading Lights
Regular
Posts: 87 Location: Williamsburg VA
I also thought that the Ford wiring was dumb until we had a problem with the brake breakaway battery on our Dodge pickup. It drained the truck battery and we had no idea until we tried to start it.
With our Ford diesel, we run the engine to power the load lights or interior when not on external or generator power. If I wanted to use the lights more than I was willing to run the truck engine I would add the battery as suggested earlier. Trying to start that diesel with weak batteries on a cold morning is a true learning experience.
Posted 2011-12-24 5:31 PM (#139657 - in reply to #139646) Subject: RE: Trailer Loading Lights
Expert
Posts: 2453 Location: Northern Utah
I just bought four rebuilt batteries from Interstate battery for $38 each. True they probably will only last two years. But on the trailer, I'm fine with that. But even new, you can buy a battery that will run your lights for $50-$80. The point being that it is really cheap to add a battery to a trailer, The truck will charge it when ever you are driving and you will have a battery and lights EVEN when the the trailer is not hooked up.
Trailer Loading Lights
