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Insulation

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ChristaBas
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2010-01-25 2:53 PM (#115687)
Subject: Insulation


Member


Posts: 10

Location: East Texas
Hello all! I recently acquired an OLD steel GN slant load trailer. I want to be able to "camp" in it, as I can't afford a LQ right now. I want to add some insulation to start. I have never done anything like this before. Can anyone point me in the right direction?1. What insulation do I use?2. How do I attach it?3. Does it go between the support bars or over them?I don't care if it is pretty, I just don't want to freeze in winter or roast in summer! :)Thanks!!
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nobodyimportant
Reg. Jan 2010
Posted 2010-01-25 3:44 PM (#115689 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Posts: 123
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Location: Indiana
I'm assuming that you are going to put some kind of wallboard on the inside?  Since you aren't going to be using this, I would think, in extremely cold weather, you don't need to worry about trying to insulate the studs.  It's really 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other as far as spun fiberglass over block foam.  Block foam can be fairly easy to install, it can be tough to get it cut right.  If you have a hot knife you can cut it so it has a snug, tight fit and you shouldn't need anything to attach it.  If not, I'd probably go with the fiberglass and glue it to the studs if the overlap paper is wide enough.  You could also glue it to the bacside of the exterior panels.
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cliffj59
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2010-01-25 4:17 PM (#115691 - in reply to #115689)
Subject: RE: Insulation



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Posts: 79
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Location: Shelby N.C.

Use this bubble foil insulation and put it on with foil tape. it will make the inside look bigger and its a great insulation.

http://www.radiantguard.com/bubble-insulation.html

This is what I used in my trailer then put knotty pine T&G boards over that.

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2010-01-26 9:02 AM (#115718 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Location: western PA
A very good insulation is a double foil faced rigid foam insulation, that is available at big box stores and building centres. Polyurethane construction adhesive will firmly attach it to the walls. The backside can be scribed so that it will contour to a curved surface. Use tape to cover any joints or spray foam to fill any gaps.
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CTRider
Reg. Sep 2009
Posted 2010-01-26 1:01 PM (#115741 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Posts: 330
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Location: northeast Texas
Hey I know Christa and unfortunately yes she is likely to be staying in the trailer in freezing temps. Already had a dose of that at our Christmas competition ride. HA HA Christa in the trailer we did ourselves, that Becky R now owns, we went to Lowes and bought sheets of R3 insulation. Cut it slightly large so you can jam it in between the studs. Then if you want it pretty, get some paneling, a nut driver drill (think thats what its called) and some metal self tapping screws and put the paneling over, screwing it into the studs. Take a permanent marker and at the ceiling be sure and put a mark where the studs are. Very handy for coming back later and hanging something, like cabinets. Also you should put some insulation up between the ceiling/roof studs since heat rises and the sun will beat down on the roof. You can put this up with glue such as Liquid Nails so the vibration doesnt cause it to work loose and fall. We coverd ours, forming a ceiling, using sheets of flexible fiberglass from the paneling section although its pretty expensive.
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ChristaBas
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2010-01-26 2:07 PM (#115745 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Posts: 10

Location: East Texas
CTR...Who are you? I'm sure I know you. :) Yes, Christmas was pretty cold!

Thank you all for the advice! What is the standard cutting tool for this insulation? I was thinking just a razor blade/utility knife...does it take more than that?

Thanks!

Sorry, I saw your name after I posted!! Now I know who you are! :)

Edited by ChristaBas 2010-01-26 2:09 PM

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nobodyimportant
Reg. Jan 2010
Posted 2010-01-26 3:27 PM (#115747 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Posts: 123
100
Location: Indiana
With R3 a razorblade should work fine.  If thats all you are going to do, you should add the foil wrapped bubble insulation.  I've been told that adds up to an extra R-factor of 2 for every inch of airspace.  I would go as thick as possible (R-7) and then if you can get it in there with the bubble wrap, you should be OK.
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wyndancer
Reg. Apr 2007
Posted 2010-01-26 5:45 PM (#115749 - in reply to #115745)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Posts: 406
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Originally written by ChristaBas on 2010-01-26 2:07 PM

CTR...Who are you? I'm sure I know you. :) Yes, Christmas was pretty cold!

Thank you all for the advice! What is the standard cutting tool for this insulation? I was thinking just a razor blade/utility knife...does it take more than that?

Thanks!

Sorry, I saw your name after I posted!! Now I know who you are! :)



You will loath cutting the foam insulation with a razor knife. Go with a circular saw and a straight edge....best would be a cordless circular saw.

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CTRider
Reg. Sep 2009
Posted 2010-01-27 7:54 AM (#115763 - in reply to #115745)
Subject: RE: Insulation


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Posts: 330
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Location: northeast Texas
HAHA yeah Christa I actually lent my electric heater to my neighbors who were freezing and used my propane furnace. I rode my bay Arab but am usually on a big tall Paint mare. She had an injury but I hope to be back on her at Scamper. Wanted to mention I was still cold when it was REALLY cold out and figured it out at a ride. I walked into the back and it wasnt heated and was still warmer. Hmmm, it was the thick rubber mats. Cold was coming up from underneath. So we went back and purchased some plywood that had an insulating backing on one side and put that over the original carpet and then put a laminate floor over that and stopped the freezing floor scenario.
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ChristaBas
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2010-01-27 10:15 AM (#115775 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation


Member


Posts: 10

Location: East Texas
Wyndancer - Thanks! I have a circular saw, so I'll keep that in mind.


CTR - This trailer was designed to be a four horse with no front dressing room, so the part that will be the "floor" of my new space actually has rubber mats already, it was supposed to be the fourth stall. (although it really is too small for all but a very small horse!) If the rubber mats are enough to hold off the cold coming up from the bottom, I'll leave it that way. IT will be easier than trying to cut them out or cover them anyway.


You'll get to see this old hunk of metal at the Scamper...hopefully with the insulation by then!

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oklahoma horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2010-01-27 8:38 PM (#115810 - in reply to #115687)
Subject: RE: Insulation



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Posts: 71
2525
Location: Edmond OK
I need to add insulation to the horse part/roof area of my trailer. It gets really hot in there in the summer. What would be the best materials to use on it? My trailer is steel.
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