Blocking the trailer axles up 4" or so may help...

You must have a steep driveway either going in or out... Is it rubbing on the tail or high siding in the center???

I've had our 6 horse head to head rub the street pretty good underneath the rear going into a service station driveway. Trailer is 36' on the floor with 10' or so behind the rear axle. We have to be really careful crossing a low/dip/hump area.

Welcome to HTW.

I think 4 inches will help me, my neighbor thought I was about 2 inches from hitting the floor.   So is this a common problem with gooseneck's?  And yes, my driveway is steep going up while backing up, and then down hill.  The center of the trailer new the grey sewer line is where is was affected.   I was thinking of placing skid rollers ( not sure if this is what they  are called).

Well, I just found out that I do not have leigh springs (spelling), not sure how this will effect trying to get air lifts, shocks, etc.,

eYour trailer probably has "torsion" axles.... The trailers of old had leaf springs. Torsion axles are relativly easy to raise/block. Most any RV/trailer shop will/would be able to blockup/lift your trailer.

Old thread on blocking axles.... http://horsetrailerworld.com/forum/thread-view.asp?threadid=10616&posts=6

There are air suspensions for trailers.... They are a little pricy..

http://www.dexteraxle.com/airflex_suspension

http://www.keldermanairride.com/category.php?id=6

http://mrtrailer.com/airaxlehybrid.htm

I agree with HTB. My first thought as I read the OP was that the front of the trailer is sitting low and the hitch needs to be lengthend.

You can always install 2" heavy duty steel wheels at the rear to prevent the dragging.  That may be a pretty easy fix without raising the trailer.  If you raise your trailer 5" without dropping the fenders, it may look funny.

Bartley Heath
bartley@DoubleDTrailers.com
Buy Factory Direct at DoubleDTrailers.com

thanks hogtown, skid rollers at the rear won't help the center dragging.  Sorry for the confusion.  If you block up the axles 5", would still consider lowering the fenders if possibly. 

Bartley Heath
bartley@DoubleDTrailers.com
Buy Factory Direct at DoubleDTrailers.com

Hey DD, did not mean to sound like an *** , but does not take much to make people really scratch their heads if they do not read every single post...

Your right about the fender deal, I seen an older 4 Star today at the auction and somebody added blocks to it and left the fenders and talk about homemade looking.  It looked like a jacked up 4x4 truck with factory tires.

Any way, Sorry for coming accross like that..

HTB

Thanks for all your advise!  It's in the shop now, and they suggest 4" blocks I certainly hope it doesn't look like a bad 4X4 jack up job, they are putting skid rollers on the rear and a skid plate under the center part of the trailer (my request, although the shop thinks this part is over kill).  I hope raising the trailer won't make it sway, that was my fear when talking to the shop personell, they did assure me this would not be the case.  We've looked into the coupler pin at the gooseneck, it has been adjusted we could only go up and by doing that it will lower the back, and that will help the center a bit (not enough to make a difference).  I've paid so much for this trailer and to have it get damaged just pulling it into my driveway kills me.  I've been told that this will only get better as time goes, there will be plenty of expenses as it is with any RV/trailer.  I'll send you all a photo when it's repaired.

Thanks again for all your advise!

You might ask them about going with 2" blocks and adjusting the hitch if you are installing kid plates.  This will not look so funny and will keep the entry step for the horses at a good level for them.  Some 4" blocks will really make for a high step for a horse, you said your trailer was about 13" in the rear and you will be adding 4" on top of that, so you will be alost 17" give or take an inch.  

Just a thought and my opinion!