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Stall Mats

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lindszo
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2009-02-27 11:33 PM (#100335)
Subject: Stall Mats



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Posts: 105
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Location: parker, co.

Any thoughts on the interlocking stall mats vs. the regular ones?  Anyone use the Mighty lites?  I have 3 new stalls to do and would like to save the money if the interlocking ones or lite ones aren't worth the extra price.

Thanks,

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ponytammy
Reg. Jan 2005
Posted 2009-02-28 7:57 AM (#100340 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Posts: 781
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Location: La Cygne, KS

Are you looking at the interlocking ones that have the little holes for drainage? The problem with the interlocking ones is the stall floor has to be very level and firmly packed, other wise the inter-locking pieces stick-up over time by the horses weight compressing the ground where they stand the most. Most of the inter-locking mats are used for temporary use on hard flat surfaces like concrete or on horse trailer floors.

Also, the drainage holes are a good concept, but not practical for my type of soil here in Kansas. We have lots of clay and the urine will not drain easily away; even when using crushed limetone under the mats. Therefore, amonia will build up in the barn. I use those solid rubber 3/4 inch, 4x6 stall mats. A lesson I learned from using these is to leave a 1/4 to 1/2 space along the stall wall for ground swell in the winter. I have a southeast facing stall with paddock access that has one mat curling on the corner. I am going to have to pull the mats out and trim. Stall is 12x12 and a pain to pull the mats, but the curling corner is driving me nuts! I have 2 inches of 1/2 inch gravel then 2 inches of gravel screenings with the mats on top. This made a very good base and easy to level with a 2x4. Then placed "more like dragged" the mats into place. I save a bunch on shavings and the pee spot is easy to remove daily.

One more thing, my neighbors has had good success with the using a wall to wall stall floor system that has tubes of sand, then a once piece poly-plastic sheeting over the tubes. Very Cushy. They had to use this system since they poured concrete in the entire barn and then built the stalls. So the horses are standing on concrete. Hence the need for a cushy floor system that had no drainage anywhere.

If I could afford it, I'd like to try StableCoat in one of my stalls to see how it performs. It's kinda like WERM flooring in concept. Very cool product.



Edited by ponytammy 2009-02-28 8:14 AM
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huntseat
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2009-02-28 8:16 PM (#100372 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Location: South Central OK

I don't like interlocking stall mats, but that's just me.  I like really heavy mats, we are talking so heavy you just about can't move them and they cost an arm and a leg but they'll last for 20 years (oh, I'm getting old!)

As to the above post ANY stall should be level and packed firm.  Horses shouldn't have to stand over or in holes it's not good for their legs or hooves.  I'm not a fan of dirt floor stalls because they crater in the middle and you never get the urine out 100% so they smell nasty.  My stalls are dirt floor packed hard and sealed with plastic then heavy stall mats and shavings.  I get the benefits of dirt without the drawbacks, best part is my stalls and be sanitized.  Just clean all the shavings out, vacuum the edges and apply cleaner to walls and floor...this should be done twice a year.  My barn after 20 years still doesn't smell like horse live in it.

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delta2
Reg. Apr 2007
Posted 2009-02-28 8:29 PM (#100376 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Posts: 16

Location: Oklahoma
I have used (no brand name) soft stall coverings, square sided rubber mats and now use interlocking stall mats. These are heavy rubber and have been in use for over 10 years with no issues. The only thing you have to be sure of is the base must be a firm level surface, lime stone screenings or equal no sand. The lighter interlocking mats have a tendency to move and will bulge in some areas. The soft stall skins for me did not last (no matter how much bedding was used) and only so much liquid can be asborbed in the stall base with out odor becoming an issue. The smooth sided rubber will seperate and get bedding underneath and rise up at the edges.
Some will say you can nail down the square sided mats but this did not work for me. They may cost a little more but in my opinion the heavy interlocking mats are the only way to go. I have them in 13 stalls and my only complaint is I did not use them first.
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AQHA 123
Reg. Oct 2008
Posted 2009-03-07 5:48 PM (#100859 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Posts: 241
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My stalls have concrete floors covered with 3/4 inch heavy rubber mats. My horses are only in there a few hours a day but I might worry if they spent a lot of time in there. It seems like this might be hard on their legs. I do like the cement under there for how easy it is to keep clean but I wonder how this is on their legs long term. Any thoughts?
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brushycreekranch
Reg. Jun 2006
Posted 2009-03-08 7:58 AM (#100869 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats





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Location: Central Arkansas
You can put the crushed limestone down on the concrete then  cover with the rubber stall mats. That is how alot of the vet clinics do it. Usually they get vulcanized rubber mats then seal them at the seams so they can still disinfect the area. My old barn has concrete stall floors that we have matted. The stalls are only used every now and then for a couple of hours just to "hold" the pasture horses while they get routine vet or farrier care. If they lived in them 24/7, I would put down a 6" limestone base then put the mats back on top. Since these stalls have a clean out drain system, I probably would not seal them unless we were using it as a quarrantine barn. Urine does not go thru if the mats are sealed so you MUST use the type of bedding that can really absorb well.
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farmbabe
Reg. Nov 2003
Posted 2009-03-08 7:19 PM (#100894 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Location: michigan
I leveled the ground as much as possible then laid the mats down. the horses are stalled most of the day during the summer and evenings in winter. They are not interlocking just mats purchased at a farm store. They do not smell nasty,have never been moved or cleaned. We use either sawdust or straw depending on availability. Both stalls are ok with no real problems except if I use sawdust I must occasionally clean out the seams since the sawdust can build up and make the edges rise up. That isn't the case when using straw. We really didn't do anything special when installing the mats. They have been there for 6-7 years now.
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JEAN
Reg. Mar 2009
Posted 2009-10-17 6:11 PM (#112013 - in reply to #100372)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Posts: 38
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Location: michigan
Hello, I have a question for you, I see where you said that you put down a    plastic coating before installing the mats. Please tell me what type & where  can I get this product ? I have packed down my heavy dirt and am ready to install mats. I do like the idea of the coating before mats for the ease of cleaning & disinfecting. Thanks in advance.Hope to hear from you soon. Jean  
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huntseat
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2009-10-17 10:59 PM (#112019 - in reply to #100335)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Posts: 1989
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Location: South Central OK

Jean, reading your questions I can't help but think you are asking about my post...if this is the case here are your answers.

I used a very heavy plastic folded and rolled up, you can find it with construction materials (my father actually found mine so all I can do is offer the description.)  When I say heavy, I'm talking 3 times the thickness of a good heavy trash bag and similar material we have it in both black and clear and it came on large rolls.  Rolled it out and cut to length, with about 3-4 foot overlap at the seams and taped to seal and stop shifting while the mats were applied.  The plastic was dusted with lime and the mats placed on top with tight joints (you could fill them with caulk if necessary, like our vet does with his.)  Just put shavings in and you're done!

I will note that around the outer edge of the stall I placed an extra 2 inches of sand so that the mats would slightly round up at the stall walls.  This was done to keep any urine from running under the metal stall frames and rusting them out from the bottoms.  If you don't think this is a big deal then look at the bottom edge of metal stalls next time you travel.

I hope this gives you some helpful information, and good luck with your stalls!

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ponytammy
Reg. Jan 2005
Posted 2009-10-19 11:50 AM (#112069 - in reply to #112019)
Subject: RE: Stall Mats


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Posts: 781
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Location: La Cygne, KS

Great idea about the caulking! I have been fighting urine getting into the seam of my rubber mat since my old horse only goes in one spot in his stall and this idea will fix the problem. Learn something new everyday. :)

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