What is the least amount of space behind and on each side that I can get away with when installing a regular compact refrigerator such as those from Lowe's, Home Depot, or Walmart? I am wanting to install the refrigerator in my base cabinet but I don't want it overheating.
I know they make refrigerators specifically for under-cabinet installation but they cost a whole lot more.
Posted 2009-01-11 6:24 AM (#97285 - in reply to #97271) Subject: RE: Refrigerator Question
Location: East London South Africa
I have a Bar fridge installed in my Weekender. I built it in under the counter top. It has no clearance on the sides (in fact it is a tight fitt - it kind of keeps itself in place that way) I left a 2 1/2 inch gap at the top to allow the hot air to escape, and is about 2 inches off the back. Works like a treat - and have had no problems with it at all. (and our climate is quite hot)
I am not sure what the recomended specs are - but that is what I did - and it works just fine...
Posted 2009-01-11 10:39 AM (#97306 - in reply to #97271) Subject: RE: Refrigerator Question
Location: western PA
I helped a friend install a modest weekender and he used a 110 v Sears "apartment" sized refrigerator (Sanyo). Like Barfly, we kept the cabinetry tight to the sides, but left a two inch gap behind the unit and the wall, and the same over the top with a small grill on the fascia. We insured a one inch gap on the floor, by adding shims to the feet.
To test any heat build up, we opened the door and ran the unit continuously for almost an hour. We then pulled the refrigerator out of its place, and felt along its coils and the wall space to see how hot it became. The refrigerator was warm, not unusually hot to the touch, as well as the upper part of the wall near the back. We then ran the refrigerator again for about a half an hour with the door open, sitting by itself away from any cabinetry. The unscientific touch test was again performed and little difference was noted between them.
If a reasonable airspace is allowed, the convection air flow seems to be enough cooling. I would not try to seal the refrigerator within the confines of the cabinets.
Posted 2017-08-07 8:58 PM (#170362 - in reply to #97271) Subject: RE: Refrigerator Question
Sanyo refrigerators have noise, noise due to many causes, you can check:
1. New refrigerators are usually larger than older refrigerators, the noise level will be higher.
2. Check whether the cabinet is balanced, if the cabinet is not balanced or if the cabinet is not stable when running will sound.
3. If the noise sounds like wind: When the refrigerator cools, the fan motor causes noise, this is the sign.
4. If occasional creaking: models of anti-skid cabinets are designed with a deflector. When the cabinet is operated for a long time, the snow is cut off on the rig, and the defrosting relay will operate to generate a noisy noise. That phenomenon is normal. Moreover, when the cabinet operates in the slug mode, it will heat up in a short period of time, when it is cold with hot plastic gas will have a thermal expansion, so there is a clicking sound, it is also a natural phenomenon to show cabinets. Normal operation.
5. If there is a reverberation as the vibrating objects touching each other: Check the rear of the cabinet to see if the pins of the machine have slipped or not, fixed.
6. If the chirp sounds like a dry engine oil: disconnect the power supply, remove all food.
Screw the screwdriver into the wind blower inside the drawer cabinet out, look inside will see the wind turbine, remove the fan motors out, fat, reapply the same, fan motor will be off.
Noise on the outside
The outside noise of the refrigerator may come from many sources.
The casing can be loose and vibrate or cause noise when the cabinet is running. Things that are placed on the top of the cabinet and magnets that keep things on the fridge can also cause noise when the cabinet is running.
You can press on the sides of the refrigerator or remove everything from the top of the cabinet to see if the noise is removed.
The noise is near the bottom
Noise near the bottom can appear due to unbalanced balancers.
When the fridge runs, one of the cabinet legs can only touch the floor lightly, so when the fridge runs, it will vibrate or "roar" on the floor.
You can determine if the balance has to be the cause by tilting the refrigerator to remove all weight from one side and then the other.
If the noise stops, the problem lies with the refrigerator legs and they need to be adjusted.
Snow and fridge freezer models emit noises while running.
When the water valve opens to recharge the compartment, the refrigerator will emit noises. As water drips down the hot coil on the snowbox, there will be noise as well.
However, this type of noise will only last when the refrigerator is running and will not continuously.
Noise from behind
In many cases, the compressor will start making noise as it becomes old and worn out.
It can start generating noise and exist for many years or may start generating noise and broken in just a few days.
If you pull the refrigerator out of the wall and hear the noise coming from the lower back area, it is likely that the compressor. In this case, you can call the specialist and ask them to check the refrigerator.
Wastewater sinks lay directly underneath the refrigerator.
It is usually mounted on spongy rubber to prevent vibration when the refrigerator is running. However, many times the waste water pan may be deviated on one side and slightly touch the cooler or heat sink. When that happens while the refrigerator is running, the pan will vibrate and quickly produce noise.
Lie down and listen carefully underneath the refrigerator. If you hear noise, the cause is due to the waste water pan. Just move the pan back to the correct position and the noise will stop.
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