If you go to the hardware store you can get a carpenters square (ask if you need to) to help you find the correct angles.  They also make a rubber molding that looks like wood.  I've seen it at Lowes.

Molding on curves....you need to make a template of the curve...then slowly steam and bend the molding in a jig in your shop...once you get the curve correct or close enough for Govt Work...only then can you install it...

Setting up angles for windows you need a powered miter saw and some training......you might check to see if your local Home Depot or Lowes has a Saturday session on making frames...

AH, Misery loves company! I worked a bit more this afternoon, it cooled off a bit, probably is not over 95 LOL

We an ugly mess on the slant wall where the ceiling arches and the paneling didn't.  I think I will get a neat knotty pine board and do a trim.  You can use paper to make your template.  I am just going to cut it out flat and attach it.  If it will work, it should look neat.  If not? I'll just close my eyes!

When we paper and have a tricky area, we sometimes use a scrap to see how it will trim and lay and then we have a guide.  One job had the trickiest moulding around the huge stove vent.  there was not room to get in that space to trim so the carpenter made us a side slice of the moulding adn we did it from the table.  not the way we like to do it, but the only way to do that one.

Keep trying.  I wonder if you can cut some kerfs in the back of the moulding to help on the curves? 

 For the windows. take some heavy paper sacks, cut them to the size of your trim. Then tape them around your window and fold them as needed for your miters.  Then cut them and test the fit.  Mark them so you will remember and then pray hard as you cut!

I am not good at measuring and cutting for accuracy.  I've used this method on many things, tile is one that it works great on.  Guys buy tools, I use bags! LOL

hang in there. 

Jeanne

Hey Memory, good luck!

I did insulate the braces.  I used a white foam board for the insulation.  It was quite a bit less $.  I was able to slip it in and slide it down beyond the lower cross piece. I thought it would crumble a lot and it wasn't too bad.  In the nose where the curve is I had trouble and now wish I had gotten some bubble insulation for that, but we are 75 miles from a Lowes, so I did what I could with what I had on hand.  I used duct tape and did not tape each seam all the way.  I could not find the house wrap tape that so many use.  If I was changing something about the insulation, I would have used two layers in the ceiling.  I have enough to add more to the side walls in the goose neck and just might do that since is was so easy to cut to fit.

Today I plan to get the goose floor insulated and put down the plywood for that.  We are due for some rain so I figured I could at least be wokring on the nose since there won't be much else to do.  We have a POA show in 2 weeks and I hope to have it ready to at least sleep in by then.  We will see.

I think I finally have a useable floor plan.  I want to keep as much floor space as I can for hauling the shavings and hay if needed.  Sometimes we haul an extra pony for a rider and lose that 3rd stall.  We don't plan on spending mch time in the trailer.  Mainly sleep and change clothes, and have a place to cool or thaw out. there will not be a TV, but we have a little portable DVD player for hte grand kids, so we can pack a movie or two.

I am having trouble deciding how to do the trim around the door.  The angel steel above the door is quite thick and the welds are a mess to work around.  I think I will use 1x4 and then trim them and plane them down to make a door frame/trim.  Lucky for me I have my dad's wood planer.  that is very handy.  I should have planed down the furring on the out side top frame, as it was just a tad higher than the cross braces.  it threw off the ceiling panels and made them want to dip down.  I am hopoing the trim covers taht and brings them back up.  Maybe we should all buy a trailer we don't want, do the dressing room, learn from the boo boos and then get a nice one to do right?!

My father said that is what trim is for, to hide mistakes!  As a paper hanger I find that the framers think the sheeter rock will hide it, the sheet rock guys say the trim will hide it and the finish guys say the paper will hide it.  The paper hanger wants to cry becasue paper is like a wet bathing suit and shows everything!  But the home owner thinks the paper hanger messed up!

I did take some pictures last night.  I'll try to figure out how to use web shots or something.  Are we able to add pictures here?

Jeanne

I'd insulate the ceiling. I remember one day laying back in the goose, sticking my feet on the top of the trailer and nearly having blisters form.

I tried the paper bag trick - very cool and I think would work w/some one more patient than I.  We ended going back into town last night and wandering around Home Depot.  Mr. Bells pointed out a very flexible garage door bottom that is the perfect size width wize. It is rubber and very soft; not the hard rubber almost plastic ones that I am used to seeing. I brought it home and am testing it to see if it will stand up to glueing and stapling.  I think this will work and will look great:) 

I also found a more flexible trim that may end up working.  Right now it is sitting in the front of the trailer being slowly forced into the correct shape.  I'll have to sand and stain it as it is untreated. 

I'll let you all know how it goes next weekend.  Thanks for all the feedback!

I tried a punch.  I'll try a drill bit on one of them and see what happens.  My husband is going nuts that I'm ripping into this trailer we just brought home last week. He about had a heart attack when I told him that I had to screw into the bracing for the furring strips.  He couldn't understand why I wanted to insulate the bed floor and main floor. I just smiled and said because that is how you do it.

Bells, we are at the curved molding issue also, my beadboard doesn't quite fit next to the ceiling. I've thought of rope also, but how do you hold it there till the glue drys.

I did find PVC molding in white and wood grain at a local hardware store to go around the corners, it is a little plastic looking compared to my bead board but it may be all I can do. I may paint it black to match my appliances and formica.

Good luck, keep up the good work. Renee J.

You will love this, I am 53, still young, right?  Dad is pushing 87 and I have to send him home becaseu I am worn out! LOL  Of course, her sits and marks and tells me what to do and I climb in and out of the trailer, to the barn to cut or to the garage to run the table saw. 

This is agreat for my weight loss plan, not muc snacking when you run all day!  And Sweat?  Gosh in our heat and humidity taht we have had this month, I shoudl lose 10 lbs.  But then I come in hot , thirsty and hungry, so there goes the progress! LOL

 We about have the boot/bed box made!  Yippee.  I have to haul a mare to the trainers tomorrow and will have to take all the tools out because with the laminate floor, they'll slide everywhere.

As for rivets, I think the can be drilled out.  I never have done that because my husband does that for me.

Our brush box was on the DR door, so I took it off, cleaned it and put it on the rear tack door, where it needs to be anyway.

I am curious about the garage door stuff.  can you senda  picture or tell me where it's at in the store?  I coudl then check it out.

For sticking the rope up, my plan was a hot glue gun.  I am worried about our ceiling material now, after hearing horror stories of that stuff warping.  I am almost ready to take it out and redo the ceiling.  Lord forbid that Warren hear my thoughts!

last night my daughter helped me lay the insulation and chip board down on the goose neck floor.  We decided to cut the big piece in half becasue we could not get it in easily becasue of some framing.  It worked great.  there will be a bit of a pain to try and screw it level, but we figure the bed will take care of that.

I had to use pieces to finish up the front and so I did the template trick becasue of the curve.  Worked great and I only had to recut a few spots due to one side being a bit different than the other. 

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Let me know how the trim stuf wokrs for you! 

Jeanne

when we did my trailer we did a suspended cieling.  Pics  can be seen here.  http://www.debknudson.freewebspace.com/photo2.html

AH, the ceiling looks great!  How do the panels go when travleing down the road?  Do they bounce out?  I liked seeing how you handled the slant parts where the steel light plates were.  That gives me some hope for mine!

Did you use standard size cabinets or did you buy fronts?  We are still trying to figure out how we want to do the steps up to he bed area.  I want to maintain as much floor space as we can, as between classes we need rom for two girls to change clothes, along with Mom's to help them out with their boots, etc.  it can get quite tight at times. 

Did you paper it or use the vinyl covered board?  I seriously considered hanging paneling inside out and priming it and papering, but decided the worse part was hanging the paneling and after all that work, I would skip the papering. We are seriously considering redoing the ceiling since some say what I used might warp, but hubby think we sould use it and see how that goes.  I know I am returning the plasitc moudling.  That stuff is awful to work with.  I figure real wood would hold up better to the job we need it for.

I will try some rope and hot gule on a board and leave in the traielr ans see what happens.  I have found that my trailer stays pretty cool as long as the windows and doors are closed ( the air is not hooked up yet, so when we work, I open it up).  I would think that the glue would not get too hot inside.  We live in western OK and it gets pretty hot here.

Jeanne

OK, I hope this works, here are some very early photos and one with my closet, micro and refridge in..I used placemats over spring rods and stenciled stars and stitched leather to the top to hold up when we want natural light. Renee

http://community.webshots.com/user/renee92355

Wow Renee - your trailer is looking great!  I like how you trimmed out the windows - I may end up ripping out mine ---screw it and go square I like it!  That I can do.

The stuff that I found that goes under gagage doors was found in the insulation section.  They were products made of of 2 very different types of material - a really tough hard plastic and a soft rubbery very flexible material.  I tried the soft rubbery stuff and it was easy to install I'm just not sure I like the look of it.  I may end up pulling it out and doing what Renee did.

Mine is no where near as far along as yours:  http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560109399MxNunj

The suspended cieling works great.  It also was easy to insulate.  The squares don't fall out.  They also have a bit of insulation on the back of them. 

The paneling is the wall papered patterned ones we got from menards.  The cabinets I just got from Menards and/or home depot and stained them.  The one in the nose can be pulled out for more room.   For the sink, I bought a 3 ft bathroom vanity at menards and happened to also find a counter top in their remant isle there to fit it.    For the water tank we used a 15 gal spray tank.  It had a electric pump and hose on it so all we needed to do is just hook the hose up to the sink and then add a battery.  It works great.   It is under the pull out couch/bench.  I made the cushion for it from foam and material boughten from Macs. 

I get alot of compliments on the work my hubby did in the trailer.  I think the wood work in there really adds to it.  I think it looks nicer then some of the professional jobs that I have seen.   You would think it would add some value to the trailer. 

I used hot glue to make the curtains in my LQ, and they held up beautifully. It was even used to make the curtain that goes on the entry door, and was under a LOT of tension...stretched on the two curtain rods to hold it tight and flat. None of the glue gave up. If you use enough of it, and it is on a fairly pourous surface, it should adhere well. It would have to get REAL hot in there to melt it.

Thanks, I think I've got the go ahead and use the hot glue for the rope. Really cool how you glued your curtains also, mine are just placemats tacked with thread and I added leather strips to pull them up.. Renee

I'm still making progress.  I got the rivets out by drilling them. Put the floor down, ready to put on the furring strips. 

    My question is what does everyone use to attach the paneling on the ceiling strips and wall strips.  Screws,nails,glue, and or combination.

And what size?                                                                                                                                                                                               

how many furring strips between the ceiling side ones does everone put up?

Lynn   

Hi, I found my ceiling at Lowe's it was $29 a sheet but it is a wall panel board and had to be special ordered and had to be five sheets..so I have extra to cover my boot box.  My sink is an ebay find under "Mexicopper" they are imported but have some cute ones, they are mostly ovals and large, so this was the one I got to fit in the space...Yes, I awwweeee at my LQ every day..My hubby has a carpenter doing it, and I just supply the ideas..I am all electric with a ten gallon water heater from Lowe's also, I also have a cowboy shower in the first horse stall, but you can't see it in the photos. I am just about set, we need a drain hole for the sink, the boot box and the overhead trim, plus finalize the electricity.

Thanks for the complements...friends, Renee