Posted 2012-09-15 11:12 AM (#147001 - in reply to #146998) Subject: RE: check engine light
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385 Location: high desert, CA.
Ok, I will go out on a limb here, and put up something most folks don't know.IF you run biodiesel at a mix of over 5%, and have never run bio before, you MAY HAVE cleaned out your fuel lines and tank of all the crud, and all the algae. This will plug your filters VERY quickly. Ask me how I know this? Past experience!! My truck is a Dodge, with the 5.9 Cummins, and I do have a "fass" fuel pump now. I also went with a "cat" type dual filter setup, that filters down to 2 microns. If you did not know, your diesel requires very clean fuel supply, and with the extremely high fuel pressures used today, ( upwards or 30,000 PSI), damage can be swift, and VERY expensive. So changing your filters at 3000 miles, and getting your oil analyzed by someone like "Blackstone", will tell you loads about your power plant.
Posted 2012-09-15 11:25 AM (#147002 - in reply to #146998) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-15 7:47 AM
I did just have the fuel filter replaced. But... how do I re-set the computer? And yes, it is all stock, no chips.
How long ago??
And which filter did you use??
I am NOT a fan of Wix filters...I use only the AC DELCO units
Also a tank of dirty fuel can crap out a fuel filter in a very short time...and I'm assuming that you did NOT drain your tank so that fuel is still there to cause problems...:(
Also...Check the water separator sensor
Also...you could have a return rate test should be performed just to make sure the injectors are not returning too much fuel ,resulting in a low fuel pressure reading. 16 ml per bank Max.35-38 API specific gravity 20 ml max 39-42 Ap specific gravity. If that is good then it is definitely the pump.
Fuel filter vacuum should be 3 1/2 "- 4 1/2 " max at idle ,If it is higher then the problem is in your supply side . Fix that first, then recheck the high pressure side max fuel pressure. has to reach 160 MPA. If it can't get the fuel volume to the pump the pump can't build the pressure.(like sucking air, pump cavitates)
But I'm still betting on a bad tank of diesel and the fuel filter...the cheapest solution...:)
Posted 2012-09-15 11:32 AM (#147003 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385 Location: high desert, CA.
Also, oil does not wear out.It gets contaminated, and full of the soot and acids from combustion. It also loses it's additives, which keep the soot, particulates, and junk in suspension, as well as combat the effects of acids and deposits. Changing your oil filters more frequently than your oil is one way to cut down on soot and particulates, but won't help with additive loss. Many fleets run their oil for 15,000 miles, and change the filters more often. Remember, a big block diesel uses mass amounts of oil to change. And, 8-10 GALLONS, at say $25.00 a gallon....yeah, pretty expensive, not to mention that oil has to go to be re-refined! Filters can be bought pretty inexpensively by shopping around, and finding the best suppliers. My Dodge uses a filter that most Cummins and big rig places stock, and at a much cheaper cost than the "Stealerships" charge. Also, some filters are better at removing the "junk" from your oil, or fuel. I use Baldwin filters, and Cummins says they are good for my rig. Do NOT overlook your AIR filter. If you are pumping mass amounts of air in conjunction with a turbocharger, ( and you are), it must be clean, and not collapsed. ( Some filters do NOT stand up to the massive amounts of air that a diesel gulps) In particular, some of the aftermarket ones with "clean/wash/and re-oil! Too much oil, and you suck it into your intake, they also are famous collapsing and allowing chunks from the media to go through your turbo.....good by turbo! ( as much as $3,000 !!!!) ( ask me how I know!)
Posted 2012-09-15 2:57 PM (#147005 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
The fuel filter just got changed a week ago. Yes, it was an AC Delco fuel filter. I had to go to the dealership to get it since no one around here sells them. Have fueled up 1 since then but this has been going on for a month now? Maybe more. Had the oil changed at the same time. It is running much better and def can tell the difference since the fuel filter got changed out. Almost thinking it didn't get changed out the last time even though I asked for it to be done while the oil was getting done. Cause it had to have only been 5k in-between since I had it changed out before this last time.
Paul... will do all that you suggested. Thanks! Will let you know.
Posted 2012-09-15 3:02 PM (#147007 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
Oh-....another mention. I get fuel at Chevron cause I have a gas card there. I know it is expensive but my truck smells so much better with their fuel. When I go to USA or 76 it stinks bad! But, I did go to 76 to fuel up maybe 2 times. Wonder if that is my problem like Paul said. Bad fuel and I should drain the tank?
Posted 2012-09-16 10:00 AM (#147012 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385 Location: high desert, CA.
This sort of directed to everyone.Filling up with diesel is usually safest, if you go to a place that services a lot of big rigs. ALL stations use filters, and are supposed to use water seperators, BUT....stations that move a lot of diesel, are not as LIKELY to have stale fuel, or have condensation problems. If you use biodiesel especially, it is hydrophilic..that means it absorbs water easily, so keep and eye on your water seperator, and drain it weekly. Draining takes less than 5 minutes, and can save you a detonated engine. Biodiesel is also a great cleaner of your fuel lines and tank. It WILL cause you to plug up your filters, if you have not run bio a lot in the past. especially high concentrations like over 15% bio to 85% #2dino. Keep your tank full also if possible, that way water won't condense in the tank as it heats during the day, and cools at night.
Posted 2012-09-17 8:40 PM (#147034 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Member
Posts: 33 Location: Bloomington, IL.
Good information given by everyone. I have a 2002 2500hd also and have an injector going bad white smoke at idle, that conversation for another time.
This post reminded me of one I read about a 5th wheel camper with similar problem and only occured with trailer hooked up. Had to dealer several times - long story short there are some flexible sections of fuel line on the supply side that can colapse and only cause problems under high demand for extended time (pulling hills with trailer).
These trucks don't have any kind of supply pump in the tank to push fuel to the front. The cp3 unit pulls all the fuel to the front, therefore any restriction cause a drop in rail presure.
Someone mentioned the airdog system which is a pump and filter setup that helps push fuel to the front and would probably fix your problem even if lines are marginal. These add on pumps usually push 8-12 psi of fuel to the cp3 unit and makes its job much easier.
Posted 2012-09-25 12:48 AM (#147197 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
ok...I took truck back to the dealership cause I hauled the horse to the vet the other day. This time my truck had no power going up the hill and it was riding rougher than usual and louder. Dealership called and said they want to change out the injectors...that they are pretty sure that is what it is. Ok- you ready for this.......$5200-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First of all, it was a diesel technician and not a mechanic! There is a difference right?????? So I asked what injectors were bad. They couldn't tell me!! Well, that would take a deeper look at everything he tells me. So now, I have paid $300- for the diagnostic and the truth of it is....they don't even know if it is the injectors!!!!!!! He said they did a pressure test on it and it was showing a return of 16#? and it should be at around 50-60#??? Still, it starts up no problem and there is no white smoke coming out the tail pipe. Then the engine light goes off as soon as I turn truck off and disconnect the trailer and re-start the engine later. So, I told them to put it back together that I will be picking it up the next day. So, now I am looking for a good diesel mechanic other than the dealership to look at it.
Posted 2012-09-25 10:40 AM (#147203 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
The suction side of the fuel system can cause this if a hose is pinched/kinked. The same exact trouble codes will set because the pump cannot get fuel PIP 4526 bulletin explains this from GM . Check all the rubber lines( cut off the outer foam cover to inspect) .The most likely one to kink is the hose from the fuel injection control module to the fuel filter inlet on rt side of engine. Check all rubber lines, from tank to engine.If you can have someone hook up a bidirectional scan tool where they can control fuel pressure. Have them ramp up the pressure to 160 MPA ( 2250 psi )If it reaches this pressure then the pump is not your problem.Check you area for a diesel mechanics...post over on http://www.dieselplace.com/index.php?http://www.duramaxforum.com/http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/ for a local service rep
Posted 2012-09-25 10:48 AM (#147204 - in reply to #147197) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-25 12:48 AM
ok...I took truck back to the dealership cause I hauled the horse to the vet the other day. This time my truck had no power going up the hill and it was riding rougher than usual and louder. Dealership called and said they want to change out the injectors...that they are pretty sure that is what it is. Ok- you ready for this.......$5200-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First of all, it was a diesel technician and not a mechanic! There is a difference right?????? So I asked what injectors were bad. They couldn't tell me!! Well, that would take a deeper look at everything he tells me. So now, I have paid $300- for the diagnostic and the truth of it is....they don't even know if it is the injectors!!!!!!! He said they did a pressure test on it and it was showing a return of 16#? and it should be at around 50-60#??? Still, it starts up no problem and there is no white smoke coming out the tail pipe. Then the engine light goes off as soon as I turn truck off and disconnect the trailer and re-start the engine later. So, I told them to put it back together that I will be picking it up the next day. So, now I am looking for a good diesel mechanic other than the dealership to look at it.
Do I read that the check engine light only comes on when you push the tow/haul mode button?? This might be due to the computer programming locking up or a faulty shift solenoid that is not releasing. If the transmission fluid is dirty then any debris in the transmission can cause this. I would have the transmission flushed if that has not been done recently. I would still have the computer scanned for codes.
Posted 2012-09-25 7:36 PM (#147218 - in reply to #147212) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-25 4:39 PM
Hi Paul,
Yes the tranny was just flushed recently this year. I had all the fluids flushed and changed out by the dealership at $1000-
I am picking the truck up from the dealership today and am looking for a local diesel mechanic as we speak.
Another option is look around the area for the GM dealer that sells the most diesels, because they "normally" have the best diesel mechanics...Without any more codes...I'm out of ideas...:(
Posted 2012-09-25 8:35 PM (#147222 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Member
Posts: 22
Location: 03303
If your injectors are bad, the price isn't out of line for a dealership. They're an expensive part with a lot of work to change them out. And the problem you're describing could be bad injectors, and it's a problem that doesn't show up with white smoke.
Your diesel is designed with a lot of excess power. That's why you can accelerate a 10k trailer up Donner Pass. Reason this matter to you is fuel supply that's actually getting into your cylinders. You can ideal along on the flat hauling a trailer and maybe use only X amount of fuel (let's say 25% of full power). Going uphill, you start using more power, or X+ amount of fuel (let's say 75% of full power).
But if something is partially blocking your fuel from getting into the cylinders, your engine doesn't have the fuel it needs for maximum power, and the check engine light comes on. If the lack of fuel is even more noticeable, you have a loss of power and a rough engine. But reduce the fuel demand (going downhill, getting back on the flat, or idling), and your engine will run fine. It's back to only needing the 25% of full power.
Now this could be a fuel line kink, bad fuel filter, bad fuel pump, or the injectors. It sounds like the technician or mechanic (same thing) thinks it's the injectors. It could be that they're partially plugged, or some other problem, where the injectors are allowing some fuel through, but not enough for maximum power. Standard answer from a mechanic in that situation is to replace the suckers.
However, you could try running some injector cleaner (Lucas is good) through your tank. Biodiesel is another option. (This might kill your fuel filter, however.)
But the biggest thing is get away from the dealerships. The vacuum pump on my F-250 died. Dealership wants $250 for the part. Autozone is $150. Both are going to take as long to get it to me.
Find a diesel shop where you can trust the mechanic. Also, go to the Duramax forum on the internet. There are guys there putting 100k miles on their trucks each year. They know the good shops and might be able to recommend one to you.
But unfortunately, I'd be getting ready to bite the bullet on this one. There's a good possibility the tech is right.
Posted 2012-09-26 12:29 AM (#147226 - in reply to #147218) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
I got the truck back today and looked at the mechanics notes and I am not sure if he (mechanic) wrote the wrong code down or a typo? but it says a code of 0193? Well, I was told earlier the code read a 1093. So, when I wake up tomorrow, I will be making a call to the dealership cause now I am not sure what the correct code is. (I picked the truck up after everyone had left already)
Posted 2012-09-26 12:32 AM (#147227 - in reply to #147222) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
equinetransport,
That is what I will do when I wake up.....call around for a diesel mechanic. Had the local horsemans meeting last night. I asked around who everyone uses and got a couple recommendations so will go from there. Thanks all!
Posted 2012-09-26 11:53 AM (#147241 - in reply to #147226) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-26 12:29 AM
I got the truck back today and looked at the mechanics notes and I am not sure if he (mechanic) wrote the wrong code down or a typo? but it says a code of 0193? Well, I was told earlier the code read a 1093. So, when I wake up tomorrow, I will be making a call to the dealership cause now I am not sure what the correct code is. (I picked the truck up after everyone had left already)
P0193 - fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high inputSounds like wiring.
Posted 2012-09-26 4:09 PM (#147253 - in reply to #147241) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
Paul,
could this wiring be under or near either of the batteries? I just had to change out the batteries even though they were only 3 years old because they were bad batteries (bigfoot- from Big O' Tires) They were leaking all over the place. both of them.
Posted 2012-09-26 5:56 PM (#147259 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Member
Posts: 25 Location: Canada
I don't know if the Duramax's are the same, but, when I had a bad injector in my F250, the dealership did a cylinder contribution test and was able to tell me exactly which injector was bad. Still wasn't fun replacing injectors, but it was sure a lot easier on the bank account replacing just one injector vs. a bank of injectors or the whole lot. When my injector went bad, it wasnt smoking, but it was running really rough on the cold starts in the mornings (-10*C ~ 15*F) and was lacking power until the engine warmed up. My fuel control module went at the same time though :(
Posted 2012-09-26 8:49 PM (#147263 - in reply to #147259) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
Snoweary,
I asked the dealership to let me know what injector is bad because I cannot afford to do them all right now. They could not tell me. So, this says to me that they didn't do all the necessary tests and then they told me to get them all done at the same time so that I wouldn't have any go bad again any time soon. Well my thing is I can afford to get them all fixed next year but not this year as I have spent all my savings already this year trying to keep on top of everything. First they charged me $130 for the diagnostic and then they call me back and say that they are going to need to do further research to see more and that that was going to be $290- well I have the truck back and they aren't telling me any more than they did when the diagnostic charge was at only $130- This is what pisses me off. They didn't DO anything after the first "look" at everything. And they charged me the $290- Just really frustrated now.
Posted 2012-09-26 8:51 PM (#147266 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Elite Veteran
Posts: 610 Location: Northern CA
Oh...also, my truck is starting with no problem. No "missing" or anything at all. Can't even tell there is anything wrong with it. Just when going up-hill with a load.
Posted 2012-09-27 2:41 AM (#147270 - in reply to #147253) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-26 4:09 PM<BR><BR><P>Paul, </P><P>could this wiring be under or near either of the batteries? I just had to change out the batteries even though they were only 3 years old because they were bad batteries (bigfoot- from Big O' Tires) They were leaking all over the place. both of them.</P>
Check both battery cables both ends for corrosion clean if needed. Check for harness rub. The wiring harness rubs on the aluminum bracket for the alternator and wears the insulation off the wires, then they go to ground and it causes issues. If you do have harness rub, fix the missing insulation, broke wires. Then use a piece of rubber heater hose to protect the wires from rubbing through again.
Posted 2012-09-27 2:46 AM (#147271 - in reply to #146917) Subject: RE: check engine light
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Bulletin No: PIP-4713 Date of Bulletin: 03/26/2010Summary Description: CHEVROLET/GMC: INSPECT FOR WIRE HARNESS CHAFES NEAR CONNECTOR X108. DEALER MAY ENCOUNTER A CONCERN OF THE SES LIGHT ON WITH REDUCED POWER. DIAGNOSTICS MAY REVEAL DTC'S P0193, P0522 AND/OR P0652. *PE
check engine light
