I have a 10 year old refrigerator that has no 110 or 12 volt electricity working, there is power to it and it is ok, my guess is the circuit board but on one this old is worth buying a $100 + part or just bite the bullet and buy a new unit? the closest rv repair shop is over 100 miles away. Is there a way to light the propane without the 12 volt?
Posted 2014-04-08 5:23 PM (#158563 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448 Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
is there a glass fuse on the circuit board?....you can also pull the board out and look for burned spot on the board, New board a lot cheaper than new fridge. There are no moving parts and the fridge is pretty simple except for the control board.
Posted 2014-04-09 8:51 AM (#158575 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
You might also check the connectors of the wiring to the board. They can corrode and provide a poor contact. Slip them off one at a time, clean the terminals and apply some dielectric grease. Check the terminals that power the heater, and make sure that IT is being supplied through the board. In about five minutes you can determine if the circuit is properly powered. If it is determined that your electrical supply is available to the board, but not from, I like others, would recommend a replacement of the board instead of the whole fridge. The ammonia gas systems units are long lived and reliable.
Usually the problems are electrical in nature, with the heater and controls acting up. The gas supply can also restrict usage when the heater is used with propane. The gas orifice can become restricted by bugs and dirt. It is a simple matter to clean and adjust this supply. If your fridge is working with either electrical or gas, the sealed cooling system is intact. It usually is then possible to repair what isn't working.
Posted 2014-04-09 9:15 AM (#158576 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
thanks Gard will clean all terminals today and see if that helps, I have power to the board but nothing out at all, as you know with out even 12 volt the propane will not work, the only reason I am thinking replace is the it is 10 years old and has been used around 100 days per year so it has been used alot more than most and is in a C C trailer that I will probably never get rid of so I like to keep it in the best of condition.
Posted 2014-04-10 7:54 AM (#158584 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
have tried all to no avail, talked to my trusted trailer guy and he told me that for the age of it that he would not throw very much money at it as it can be a money pit and I am inclined to agree. Now my question is buy a Norcold or another Dometic? if I buy a norcold I am thinking on a 3 way unit so you can travel with it on 12 volt and not be using gas going down the road. What are your opinions on this?
Posted 2014-04-10 9:10 AM (#158587 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Sorry, but I can't give you an answer on which is a better choice. I have owned both brands in several installations, and both have worked perfectly. One Dometic did have a dirty orifice which was easily cleaned and cost nothing to effect. That was not a fault of the brand, rather, the critters that live near us.
My first reaction to any mechanical failure, is to figure out what the costs of repairs will be, how reliable the unit will be with them, and is it cost effective? Someone posted that a new board costs ~$100. If that is the source of the problem, as confirmed by your "trailer guy", it would be my first reaction to try that, instead of paying many times that amount for a new fridge's installation. The gas part of the cooling system can last decades, so if everything else is working, $100 and a couple minutes of labour seems to me, a good bet on a gamble. There are other parts that can fail, the heaters, various gas service parts, the board, wiring terminals etc. etc., but these are at risk with a new unit as well.
If you purchase a new unit, buy exactly the one you think you might like the best. Amortized over a period of ownership time, the costs differences among the various models, will be overshadowed by your enjoyment of them. Best of luck on what you decide.
Posted 2014-04-10 6:12 PM (#158589 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Member
Posts: 47 Location: Grayson Co. Texas
I too had problems with an old dometic. Just a thought, get to the panel in the back and plug it into another outlet with an extension cord and see if anything happens. One of my problems was the plug. The other was the heating element, which was an easy fix. Good Luck..
Posted 2014-04-10 10:23 PM (#158590 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Does your trailer repair person have a spare board you could swap to verify its failure? It would only take a couple of minutes to change, and would eliminate some trouble shooting. You can then order a replacement part knowing it will cure the problem.
Posted 2014-04-11 7:18 AM (#158598 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
we were going to try another board but Dometic has 6 or so boards, I gambled and ordered a new one for under $100 but if it does not fix it I am going to put in a new refrigerator, if I go new I am going to buy a 3 way so you can be on 12 volt while traveling instead of gas.
Posted 2014-04-11 12:01 PM (#158603 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Member
Posts: 8
Location: Dallas, GA
I was getting ready to go to a week long show last year and turned the fridge on overnight to check it out. Next day, it wasn't the least bit cold. Wouldn't get cold running on gas either. Had decided I would have to use a cooler all week and when I got to the camp and plugged the trailer up, next day, I noticed the fridge was cold!! Don't know what that was all about. Someone had said could have been that it was not level at home. But it works now!
Posted 2014-04-30 3:45 PM (#158875 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
got a new board and still nothing works, it has 110 and 12 volt, it will not run on electric or gas, it is not getting power through some where because the light inside does not work or the panel on the front of the refrigerator. what do you all suggest now.
Posted 2014-04-30 4:22 PM (#158876 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448 Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
Look for a high limit switch on the flue....it has a small button and is resettable....has a couple of wires going to it. While you are in there, look for some yellow material that would indicate a leak in the refrigeration lines. Lack of ammonia (from a leak) causes the high limit switch to open from too high a temperature.
You can also acquire a multimeter or circuit tester and follow the 110v thru the circuit and find out where it stops.
Good luck and let us know
Posted 2014-05-01 7:14 AM (#158886 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
checked once again and power is to the new board, if there is a re settable limit switch I can not find it and still nothing works. remember there are no lights on the front control panel or inside of the refrigerator, what is the chance the control panel is bad? does this unit pop out some how? I hate to just pry on it and break it if its not bad, the further I go I wish I would have just got a new frig.
Posted 2014-05-01 8:58 AM (#158890 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Veteran
Posts: 259 Location: Topeka Ks
Kooner, My father inlaw had a similar issue and a gcfi was tripped on the circuit the frig was fed from. You might check all the breakers and fuses if you haven't done so.Just found this link to a service manaul http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/Resources/NewDometicRefrigerator...
Posted 2014-05-01 11:04 AM (#158892 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
Justgurn I have that link and thanks, yes I have power to the board but it will not go furthur, 12 volt and 110, this is crazy. this is why I am thinking it may be the upper board inside the trailer. Now if I can just get it off to check it out.
Posted 2014-05-01 11:23 AM (#158893 - in reply to #158892) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Veteran
Posts: 259 Location: Topeka Ks
I figured you had it. I have not had to work on my frig yet, so I'm not much help.
Originally written by kooner on 2014-05-01 11:04 AM
Justgurn I have that link and thanks, yes I have power to the board but it will not go furthur, 12 volt and 110, this is crazy. this is why I am thinking it may be the upper board inside the trailer. Now if I can just get it off to check it out.
Posted 2014-05-01 12:30 PM (#158894 - in reply to #158544) Subject: RE: dometic refrigerator
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448 Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
another good link http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/domser.pdf
What model #
try utube for any video showing removal of display board.
It really should come out easily....you just have to figure out how....maybe remove some trim pieces?
I am going to look at one later today and may have more info later
dometic refrigerator
