If the metal is in rough shape, first sanding it with 280 grit paper with a random orbit sander will smooth things out. Then using a wool bonnet and a Tripoli compound, you can easily buff the metal to a high gloss. Wipe off the compound with a degreaser and then finish with this:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3892&familyName=3M+Marine+Metal+Restorer+and+Polish

The finished metal will look like a stainless mirror. For a deeper gloss tone, the metal can also be tinted by buffing with a jewler's rouge compound, before the final polish is applied.

One thing that hasn't been addressed concerning aluminum polishing, is the condition of the metal's surface before the polishing is attempted. Aluminum can be cast, rolled and wrought, and the surfaces of each will vary, as will the process to provide a reflective surface. A rolled sheet of .040" installed on a trailer side,  will have a different surface than a .125" wrought extrusion, particularly one that has been acid etched.

Many of the videos available on the internet, show polishing techniques on relativel smooth materials. The one of an Airstream that had to have its finish first stripped and then polished, accurately spoke of the numerous hours the project involved. The whole project concerned the usage of various compounds, to achieve the final finish.

On heavier guage metal where errosion and a more rough surface is involved, the initial steps can be more aggressive. Instead of spending countless hours with a compound to first smooth the metal, sand paper can be used. This will greatly reduce the total amount of labour needed to effect the final finish. Most compounds will remove sanding marks in soft metals such as aluminum;  #280 grit on a random orbital sander, #320 on an oscillating sander. It's not recommended using a circular sander to smooth sand a metal surface.

Each job, while having similarities, may involve different materials and efforts to achieve the desired results. Knowing which ones are applicable, will save you some time and expense.

Acid will not smooth a piece of aluminum and will make your efforts more difficult. Will the  owner let you use a green Scotch brite on the hook and loop pad of a random orbit sander?

Slavery supposedly went out with Lincolin

My partner and I spent a day and half this past weekend washing & waxing the truck and steel trailer. We use a product called Liquid Glass. Rig shines so bright it hurts your eyes :) ! You let the rig "bake" in the sun for 4 hours after application.

Brenda

I see your point.I think I'd rather have you detail one of my rigs or vehicles than someone that just got out of prison or is needing some dope $ however,but,understandable.

I've always loved the product "MOther's California Gold" in the red can.Used that on my Corvette that I used to own (long ago) and it's a really good wax,requires some elbow grease,tho.Others swear by Blue Coral,etc.I have heard good things about Liquid Glass and would like to apply it to the white enamel section of my LQ trailer.

But I"ll be blunt: I'm not ABOUT to apply 25 coats of it,LOL! One ought to do it,for me,especially at the price.Still not cheap,even for the 16oz can of it.

But that "Legend" stuff is ridiculous.Wonder how many cans of that your ole buddy will sell? I had to laugh at the idea of it increasing speed.Maybe a miniscule,tiny,unmeasurable amount,but,hey,for a difference in price I think I could live with slower speed.

Something like this might help:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=9900&familyName=Garry%27s+Royal+Satin+Marine+and+RV+Wax

The only buffer we used was "elbow grease!" And, no there will not be 25 coats of LG on the rig. By the way, we got the LG on clearance sale at Auto Zone for $8.99/can.

Brenda

Those are good points,garth,and,you're right.It's all relative to what someone decides they want to drive,how they want to look,the type of vehicle they want to own and the use of it,and the amount of time,money and labor they want to put in to keep it looking nice.It does matter come trade in time.

I always detailed my own vehicles,also.I bought a book and orbital buffer and would spend a Saturday twice a year doing it.(I was single,then,too,without kids around.) I had 2 Honda Accords and the color was called "Merlot" I believe.It was a metallic deep burgundy on both of them.When I traded,the guys couldn't believe the finish and how nice it was.Honda did make a good finish,however.

I would wash,then apply cleaner.buff off.Then apply polish,buff off.Then apply a glaze by hand,then a wax.After that,a margureita would be applied to me LOL! (I'm just kidding.)It was a LOT of work,thus,my feeling on the 25 coats of whatever on a horse trailer painted panels.Acid washing and then washing with a protectant is enough,it is tantamount,to me,to washing a Greyhound bus or even the "Titanic" were she still around.

Well Garth,I hope you don't mean Metalwax and Streakmaster are "Snake Oil" products that are advertised here on HTW.I've used them both.They're terrific products.

Your method sounds fine,but,some of us have neither the time or inclination to polish an entire aluminum horse trailer with a buffer,a bag of rags and flour.I do happen to know about Blue Magic,and,it is a good product but you're spot on about the black residue,which will happen with any product that is used to polish aluminum regardless of what it is.

From one Arkie to another,peace,and happy polishing.