Hi all:  we have a 3 horse exiss with LQ that I tow with a 1998 f250, triton engine (gas), single axel, short box, 4x4.  I have a couple of questions.  I have michelin tires on the truck and am wondering if I should have them at max tire pressure (80 psi is listed on side of tire).  The gvwr of the trailer is approx 9500 lbs. We tow two horses so I'm assuming we are usually a bit under that weight? I'm also wondering if I should have the overdrive off all of the time or just in hilly/stop and go type situations.  This truck is in great shape and I would like to keep it for a couple of more years.  I know that a diesel would give better towing/mileage performance but just can't afford to switch right now.  Any advice on towing with this setup would be greatly appreciated.

thanks for your time

Maryann

Thanks for the reply.  I'm sure I'll have more questions and appreciate your taking time to answer.

Maryann

Thanks, I figured that.  Is it ok to keep them at 80 even when not hauling? 

I keep mine at 80 front and rear also. Never had an issue. Yes it does ride a bit rougher, but it is a dually and I don't expect it to ride like a car.

I have friends that run 65 fronts, 80 rears, and others that run 65 around. One peeled a tread off a rear tire two weeks ago and tore a chunk out of his fender on the truck. Another is changing tires constanttly. They have both asked me about tire problems. Never had any, but I do run my tires at max on the truck and trailers. Either I have just been lucky, or it works. Since I haven't yet won the lottery, I am going with it works because I have done it that way for 15 plus years.

I run the max. as stated on the tires sidewall. Same for the front, rear, truck and trailer which happens to be 80 psi..... No abnormal wear, no tread peeling, no blowouts, (no kidney belts, messin' with ya hounddog LOL!!)... Those lrE, Michelin, LTX M/S, 215-85-16's on my GM dually need the full 80 psi to carry the load and not be squishy/squirmy. They are rated at 2686 single and 24?? as duals. Don't take alot to load them up. If I ran 65 psi like it says on the door, the fronts would be gnawing the outer shoulders off quicker than I could keep them rotated. It does ride some better with 65 psi, but I'm not going to change air pressue every time I drop or get under the trailer, truck stays hitch to the trailer 99% or the time. Only time it's not is when we're at a show, or it's at the shop for PM service. I bought a new GMC 2500HD a couple weeks ago to use as my run around/two horse bumper pull truck. The first thing I did when I got home was bring the tire pressures up to 80 psi. Now it handles like a truck. Dealer had 50 all around. I guess they leave them slack so the trucks will ride a little better, maybe it helps sales, I dunno. Same dealer had a new crew cab Dodge 3500 dually on the lot that had the duals almost touching at the bottom. I bet it didn't have 30 psi in the tires.

Anyway, I rather have them a pumped up a little tight rather than running a little slack and hot, specially in this 100 degree heat we're having.

You are right. A blowout on the front is dangerous. Period. 65psi, 80 psi, doesn't matter, still dangerous. And each to their own is right too. Had a 93 Dodge DRW came factory with about a cheap a tire as you could put one one...ran them 64,000 miles...they were a Firestone 6 ply that max load was 65 psi. Just pulled a set of Goodyears off of an 07 Chevrolet...82,000 miles. Only truck I ever had that wore funny at max psi was a Ford. Ran Michelins on that and at max psi got shoulder wear. Go figure. I run a lot of weight most of the time, and only a little weight other times. But I will always run max. And I have multiple trucks and trailers going most of the time.

  I don't care, you'll not change my mind, no matter how hard you preach.... I'm getting old and grumpy, and it's hotter than a ---- ---- tom cat and I ain't about to lower my air pressure to what the truck door sticker says, ain't going to be driving nobody's mushy, squishy, sloppy feeling 50 psi half flat tire truck.  (all that said in a mono tone voice with one big breath, sort like Mr. Hainy from Green Acres, LOL!!)

  Until the auto mfg's start building the tires that come on the trucks they sell, I'll run the maximum all the time. Ya'll stay in a cool spot today, good day to stay inside and practice our typing skills.

Hounddog, how are you making out in this heat..??

Been on that week on, three weeks off, Fluorouracil (5FU)  deal in 1993. Don't know what was the worse, Chemo, Radiation or the cancer.... Having good thoughts for your speedy recovery!! Drive safe and get to the Key's before the oil slick beats you to it. I expect when it rounds the bend around Florida and catches the gulf stream, we'll be getting some of the "CRUDe" on the North Carolina beaches... Look out Ocracoke Island. http://www.ocracokeisland.com/

  If the tread wear is still acceptable doing this the only thing you're hurting is your suspension bushings and kidneys.

How is an extra 10 LBS of tire pressure going to damage a heavy duty truck? One trip down a rough road would do more harm. Our truck rides quite well at max tire pressures with no kidney problems noted.

 The truck's recommended tire pressure is based on more accurate information than a sidewall maximum. But it's definitely not the rule, and on many vehicles it's asking for trouble.

?????  What kind of trouble? More tires are damaged and experience blowouts from under inflation than over inflation. The Explorer/Firestone debacle is but one example. The manufactures are interested in a compromise between ride quality and utility, and their recommendations reflect those interests.

The higher the tire pressure, the less rolling resistance will be experienced and a lower opperating temperature will result. Heat will kill tires by delaminating the sidewalls and causing blow outs.

In theory the best way to determine tire pressure on radials is to use a pyrometer to measure tire temp across the tread width and adjust pressure to make it as even as possible. This ensures the inside, center, and outside tread are working as even as possible and you're not burning up any particular section.

This is not only a theory, but an actuality, commonly used on racing vehicles where the maximum adhesion is desired. Because many racing compounds are heat sensitive, the opperating temperatures are especially critical. The temp scans also point out the various suspension settings and wing loadings on cars equipped with aerodynamic assists. The air settings are critical to within one or two pounds pressure and can effect lap times. Most trailer owners aren't too concerned with optium cornering speeds.

Based on my personal trucking experiences and apparently those of other posters in this forum, the temperatures and wear variances across the threads of maximum inflated tires, have not been an issue. We have had long tire life, reliability, no suspension difficulties or need for kidney transplants.

Each owner has his own rig that differs from other owners. To suggest that we all have to use the same manufacturers' settings, would indicate there are no variances among the owners' equippment. Each tire brand, truck manufacturer, driving style, trailer type, and truck option, will change the needs from one owner to the next. One size doesn't fit all.

You obviously have had no experience with radial LT truck tires. If you did, you would realise your last comments have no verasity. When a radial truck tire is installed on a vehicle, not only is the entire thread area in contact with the ground, but the sidewall transitions are as well. In fact, by a visual inspection, most people cannot differentiate the shape of a radial truck tire, when the air pressures vary between 40 psi and 80 psi. At maximum pressures, the center is not elevated, leaving the sides off the ground, nor will the center thread support the whole tire in a turn. The very reason a radial tire offers superior handling over a bias ply tire, is the wider thread area and its carcass flexiblity that reduces thread squirm.

Since you have never driven my truck, pulled my trailer, know what tires I use, know what I carry, and upon which roads I travel, you have absolutely ZERO personal knowledge, about how it rides, how it handles and how much maintenance it receives.

I guess you didn't read or understand my last statement, which by the way, was not addressed to you. If you had, you might not have needed to try to shoot the messenger.

"Each owner has his own rig that differs from other owners. To suggest that we all have to use the same manufacturers' settings, would indicate there are no variances among the owners' equippment. Each tire brand, truck manufacturer, driving style, trailer type, and truck option, will change the needs from one owner to the next. One size doesn't fit all."    gac

This has been a very informative thread to me and I appreciate it.

Coincidentally, I took my 2005 F-350 diesel 4wd club cab long bed in to have the tires rotated and balanced today.  They are 18 "  Michelins.  I didn't say anything to the tire shop where I had purchased the tires about my use of the truck.   When I picked it up they had set the tire pressure at 70 all around. 

They did say (and it's true) that there was some uneven wear on the fronts.

How is an extra 10 LBS of tire pressure going to damage a heavy duty truck? One trip down a rough road would do more harm. Our truck rides quite well at max tire pressures with no kidney problems noted.

 The truck's recommended tire pressure is based on more accurate information than a sidewall maximum. But it's definitely not the rule, and on many vehicles it's asking for trouble.

?????  What kind of trouble? More tires are damaged and experience blowouts from under inflation than over inflation. The Explorer/Firestone debacle is but one example. The manufactures are interested in a compromise between ride quality and utility, and their recommendations reflect those interests.

The higher the tire pressure, the less rolling resistance will be experienced and a lower opperating temperature will result. Heat will kill tires by delaminating the sidewalls and causing blow outs.

In theory the best way to determine tire pressure on radials is to use a pyrometer to measure tire temp across the tread width and adjust pressure to make it as even as possible. This ensures the inside, center, and outside tread are working as even as possible and you're not burning up any particular section.

This is not only a theory, but an actuality, commonly used on racing vehicles where the maximum adhesion is desired. Because many racing compounds are heat sensitive, the opperating temperatures are especially critical. The temp scans also point out the various suspension settings and wing loadings on cars equipped with aerodynamic assists. The air settings are critical to within one or two pounds pressure and can effect lap times. Most trailer owners aren't too concerned with optium cornering speeds.

Based on my personal trucking experiences and apparently those of other posters in this forum, the temperatures and wear variances across the threads of maximum inflated tires, have not been an issue. We have had long tire life, reliability, no suspension difficulties or need for kidney transplants.

Each owner has his own rig that differs from other owners. To suggest that we all have to use the same manufacturers' settings, would indicate there are no variances among the owners' equippment. Each tire brand, truck manufacturer, driving style, trailer type, and truck option, will change the needs from one owner to the next. One size doesn't fit all.