So far no one has mentioned that the fuel mileage with the newer diesels is very poor. That is the only negative I can see with the truck and all of the mfg's are in the same boat in my opinion. At this time none of us has any options but to live with the poor mileage until they get rid of the DPF exhaust setup.

Good Luck, Paul

So far the GM guys haven't had it near as bad as Ford and Dodge with poor mileage.  But I do agree with the DPF crap.   Mine fell off of my Dodge with 20-k miles and has been GREAT!  More power and better fuel mileage!

The kit I bought is from H&S Performance.  It comes with a delete pipe and programmer to reset the factory computer so there will be no codes or check engine lights.  They have since updated to a plug in moniter that looks like a GPS unit.  It installs with simple hand tools, the first time it took me and a buddy just about 2 hours to do with the longest part being to first download of the program.  Since then and now I know what I am doing it takes us about an 30 mins to uninstall everything to make it dealer friendly and about an hour to reinstall the stuff.

At first I really did not want to power, just the fuel mileage, so I played with it a few weeks and on MY truck and MY driving habbits I have found that the 120hp setting offers the best fuel mileage and super power improvements and now I tow our Sundowner without having to use the tow/haul mode. 

Again depending on driving habbits, on my truck with me driving I am now getting 17 to 18 all day long unloaded and around 14 to 15 loaded compaired to around 14 unloaded and 9.6 this last weekend loaded......  As far as performance, I did use the 175hp setting 1 time just to try it out and I have never had a truck with dual wheels that was 9-k lbs smoke the tires and get sideways in the road before!  Not only the performance was upgraded the exhaust brake seem to work better or at least it sounds better......

Something I just found out on the Dodge trucks is they was having an issue witha p2262 code (no boost detected) and they was blaming the turbo for the problem.  Its is not, it is a faulty vent tube on the fuel tanks causing the lift pump to suck in any dirt into the fuel system that is around the vent hose.  Then going into the intire fuel system incluidng the turbo and egr system which is causing the codes.  Dodge told me they will not sned out a recall becuase of the amount of money it cost to fix the problem, they are doing it on a "have too bases" only!

Good luck!

Depends on the brand of trailer, type of nose, and width of trailer. When Dodge came out with the mega cab, I went to a team roping where there were two of them less than a month old and both had been hit.

NOPE, most of the time if you are thinking about it then you look the other way and BAM it's too late!  Most of the time this only happens when backing up in a parking place trying to turn.

I agree with HTB. Most of the time it happens without them ever thinking about it. I would probably recommend using both the extende coupler on the trailer and the extended hitch on the B & W. Both are easy and and in my mind, the more clearance the better.

My truck is a short bed and I bought the SB1 coupler for the LQ  trailer. It sets the trailer back about 9inches. Makes a world of difference in clearence for turning. But doesn't affect the overall towing.

Don't get to worried about the short bed. I used to deliver RV trailers out of northern IN and quite a few drivers had short beds. And believe it or not they usually got just a little better fuel mileage pulling a fifth wheel trailer than those of us with a long bed. The only explanation for this seemed to be that the trailer was closer to the truck cab and that provided better aerodynamics which equals better fuel mileage. I have seen wrecks with both short bed and long beds where the trailer gets into the truck cab or truck bed, just be cautious with the turns and see how you get along before you spend any money on a hitch extender you might not need.

Paul