I have a Honda 3000. Nice and quiet.  I just have it in the back of my truck.  It probably isn't as handy as being able to start it from inside your LQ, but it works.  They also come with a remote start so you could put one in the hay rack.

I use one of these... Yamaha EF3000iSEB 

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/products/modelspecs/444/0/specs.aspx

Haul it in the bed of the truck... One generator, three trailers.

 I use a Kipor ID3500

http://www.kipor.com/prouducts_rueal.asp?info_id=748

This way I just set it in the bed of the truck and plug my shore plug into it. It runs at about 80db which is pretty quite. It meets the requirements for the state parks around here in NC for the db level.

You cant run the microwave and the AC at the same time  but I can live with that.

Well when I got home last night and looked at what I had it wasnt what I

thought here is what I use.http://www.kipornorthamerica.com/Sinemaster3.aspx

and the db level is between 62 and 67. You can tell how much I look at my stuff.

The plug/cable/cord that is attached to the trailer on one end and to a power source on the other. It's the flexible conduit that transfers electrical AC power to the trailer/RV. 

One thing to consider is weight of the generator. The Honda generators only weigh about 46 pounds and are very easy to start.

We have a 5000 watt Huskey which is pretty quiet aside from Honda and Onan and is less expensive. It has wheels but....we also have a ramp on the trailer. If you don't have a ramp, it takes two people to lift it.

Make sure you have a 30 amp adaptor plug. A smaller one will melt if you run the air.

!st of all get a generator that runs at 50+ db.  Not at 80db as cliff said. 80 db is way loud.  ( every 5db the sound doubles)

the Hondas Generators are good. The 2000w is not powerful enough for most A/C unit. But it's quite, and only weighs around 45lbs.  So it's easy to move. The Honda 3000 has plenty of power but weighs 135lbs.  So it needs two people to move it.

I bought the Yamaha EF2400is. It has enough power to start and run most A/C and only weighs 72lbs. It runs at 53-55db in noise level. so pretty quite.

Both the Honda and the Yamaha offer invertor generators. A invertor generator produces cleaner power. You will want clean power if you run TV's, Laptop Computers, Microwaves, or Charge your cell phone. ( anything that has circuit boards inside).  Invertor generators cost more. The yamaha EF2400is that I bought, sells for around $1150-$1200  the Honda 3000 sells for $1995

It is every 3 db that the noise doubles, not 5.

Oh, and if you can afford it get the Onan installed and be done with it. Lugging the generator around stinks out loud.

I may be mistaken, but if I remember my science class carbon monoxide is heavier and starts at the lowest point and works up. I would also think if the generator is outside the CO would dissipate before entering my trailer. Also most campgrounds in this area require generators be shut off @ 10:00 p.m.

 Outside your trailer is a great place to have a generator sitting and running; as long as it isn't under the neck of the trailer.  I recall a guy whom mounted a generator under the neck of his trailer, and it killed his wife and daughter; by the fumes all entering through the windows in the neck of the trailer.  This might be an extreme case; but it did happen.  Be careful where you choose to run your generator at.  If you leave it in the trailer; as previously mentioned, MAKE SURE IT HAS PLENTY OF VENTILATION. 

HONDA now makes a extra quiet 6500 on wheels, with electric start.  It will run everything on your LQ.

Last year a thread was posted about a LQ trailer owner with a slide out. Apparently he had either a truck bed, or under goose, mounted generator. The weather seals of the slide out were loose, which allowed the CO to enter the LQ, setting off the detector. There were various discussions about re routing the generator's exhaust up and over the top of the trailer, to protect the occupants from CO poisoning.

Carbon monoxide readily mixes with air, making it easily dispersible. Because the exhaust gases are warm and warm air rises, the CO will rise as well. In the states in which I've lived, the motor vehicle codes, specifically prohibit any motor vehicles from passing inspection, with rust holes in the body floor areas. This prevents the possible intrusion of any leaking exhaust gasses, from rising into the passenger compartments.

If you check the instructions provided with the CO detectors, you will find they are commonly placed wherever smoke detectors are located; higher on the walls or ceiling, away from the junction of the wall and ceiling.

Any living space above or around a motor's exhaust should be protected from CO intrusion. The exhaust should be rerouted away from any doors, windows or any openings that would allow the CO to enter. Because the gas is accumulative in your blood system, a small amount over a period of time can be deadly. A slight breeze can carry the fumes many feet, so be careful about using a generator in proximity to any living space.

Gard