Posted 2007-07-16 11:17 AM (#63960) Subject: Replacing Floor boards
New User
Posts: 3
Location: Ogden, UT
I need to replace at least a few of the wood floor boards on my 2 horse straight load trailer. It looks like a simple job, but I know that changes quickly once you get things torn apart, I believe in Murphy.
My question is what is used to secure the boards to the trailer metal frame/cross members?
Posted 2007-07-16 11:55 AM (#63962 - in reply to #63960) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Regular
Posts: 95
Location: East Central Kansas
I had to replace a floor on my stock trailer. The trailer had tounge and grove boards, however I replace the boards with 2x8 treated wood. The boards were held into a channel and I had to cut the top piece off to get the boards out. Once out I used the old boards after numbering them. I used the old boards as a template and cut the new boards off the template. Put the new boards in the channel, welded the top piece on and now I have a new floor.
Posted 2007-07-16 12:09 PM (#63965 - in reply to #63960) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
New User
Posts: 3
Location: Ogden, UT
Thanks the reply!
My boards are sitting on the frame and attached with what looks like some kind of screws at each end and at two metal crossmembers. I don't think they're regular screws, they don't seem to have slots in the screw heads. What is the best fastener to use? I'm also concerned about getting the old fasteners out, I'm sure they're rusted in there and will need to be drilled out.
Posted 2007-07-17 2:52 PM (#64035 - in reply to #63965) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Monroe, WA
They are usually either phillips head or square drive - either way, they will not be coming out so you may as well get ready to do some demo work :)If they pull through the old wood, or they break off, either way take a cuttoff wheel on an angle grinder and buff them off flush with the channel or angle iron frame members. Mark centers on the sides so you can stringline across the new wood after it's laid in to put a screw in each board - less is more, don't be knocking a whole lot of new holes in the wood to start the rot all over again.Self tappers and a good screwgun are priceless for this work! We have a big Milwaukee screw shooter that is superb. Actually, if there's a good steel piece welded down over the ends so the boards can't shift much, fasteners are superfluous and only weaken the boards. Last one we did a new deck in, we opted to not screw though the wood, it's the best one yet.One bit of advice - if the wood is real wet, put them in there TIGHT edge to edge. You will get up to 10-15% shrinkage, especially on treated lumber, and will end up with some major gap-osis if you lay it loose.
Posted 2007-07-17 3:16 PM (#64037 - in reply to #63960) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
New User
Posts: 3
Location: Ogden, UT
Great info, thanks! If I weld metal across to hold the boards down I'll just have to make sure it can be cut & removed if board replacement is ever needed again. Just spot weld it on the ends and a couple of places along the length should be enough.
Posted 2007-07-17 6:29 PM (#64049 - in reply to #63965) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico
The last trailer floor I replaced had the boards bolted to the frame. Get up under it and see if there are any nuts. If there are see if you can get a wrench or screw gun under there and loosen the nuts. If they are rusted on like mine were, it was easier to cut the boards out and then cut the bolts off and replace them.
Posted 2007-07-18 10:02 AM (#64064 - in reply to #64037) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Monroe, WA
Yep, just make sure the welds are "enough" so that they don't pop with use - and take a big hammer (ie, 12 pound sledge) and tap the free edge down as flush as you can get it to the new wood. In case your mats don't cover that edge, you don't want it to catch a shoe heel and cause a big nasty wreck!
Posted 2007-07-19 8:22 AM (#64104 - in reply to #63962) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Expert
Posts: 1871
Location: NY
ggrimm01 I have a question for you . You replaced you boards with treated wood- presser treated ? I was told that you could not use pressure treated wood because the wood waffles and the horse would get splinters is this information right? This way the next time I do my floor I would use treated wood ??
Posted 2007-07-20 4:03 PM (#64179 - in reply to #63960) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 479
Location: central sierra nevada foothills
I believe they are called "carriage bolts." That's what we used when we replaced the floor in our cattle trailer. It was very simple and used I also believe 2x 6 and they were 14footers, that's what the older trailer takes. (If i'm not mistaken)
It's a very simple process, not very hard at all, with two people you can have it done in a few hours maybe less..............
Posted 2007-07-21 6:47 AM (#64193 - in reply to #63960) Subject: RE: Replacing Floor boards
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 316
Location: Illinois
If you are going to remove a couple of boards, I recommend doing them all. It'll actually be easier to remove all the boards than just a few in most cases. Or saw carefully. ;) Before cutting any metal, remove the old boards anyway you can. Power saws are helpful. Use a saw (careful not to saw into your trailer walls or frame) to enable you to do this easily. For the now rusted in screws (they probably had screw guides on them, but corroded away.), easiest way to remove the boards from them is chisel and hammer and pop them from under the boards. And as suggested use the measurements from the old boards total length to cut your new boards. Removal takes longer than installing. The new boards with a little tapping perhaps, should slide into the channel at by the door of the trailer. Get your drill and screws. If you want to use the original holes, get dirty and drill your pilot holes from the bottom of the trailer. Would be a good idea to weight down the boards to keep them in place as you do this. For more clearance, use whatever trailer aid kinda thing you have and could even borrow a friends to lift evenly. Safer than using a jack. If not worried about making new holes, drill from the top. Oh, one way you may try to get rid of the what is left of the old screw if you've broken them fairly flush with the frame is a hammer and a pritchel and tap them out. As for using screws versus carriage bolts, it depends on how big of holes you want to put in your frame and personal preference. They are really there more to keep the boards from slapping around when you travel than anything else. You will want a screw that goes flush with the board.
Have fun and it really won't be that bad.
Oh yeah. And look at the grain on the boards end. You want to put the board with the half moon shape arching up. Think frown. This will help keep your boards flat in the long run. Otherwise the board will start to smile on you in the future instead of staying flat. And we don't like smiling boards.
Modified to add, if done right, you shouldn't have to cut any metal on your trailer to replace the boards.