Posted 2007-07-05 8:06 AM (#63327) Subject: class III or class IV and why?
Member
Posts: 17
Location: NJ
so i'm shopping for a hitch for a 97 f250 (you may have seen my prior post re which brand of hitch to buy). after some consideration i opted for a draw tite afterall;)
my truck is rated for 6000 lbs trailer. seems the hitch i was planning to buy is a bit overkill - it was a class IV suitable for up to 12,000 lbs. so i decided to go with something less, and i found this other draw tite hitch which is class III but rated for 6000 lbs. i thought class III's went up only to 5000lbs? can someone explain what makes a hitch fall into a particular class and comment on whether or not this one would be suitable for my needs? (i'm hauling a light 2 horse trailer with a single horse in it, but i'd like to get a hitch strong enough to haul whatever the truck can handle).
Posted 2007-07-05 9:26 AM (#63331 - in reply to #63327) Subject: RE: class III or class IV and why?
Regular
Posts: 95 Location: East Central Kansas
Here is a good explanation:
A frame mounted Class III or Class IV receiver hitch is mandatory for safe hauling, and is the only hitch that is legal in all states. This type of hitch is bolted or welded to the frame of the tow vehicle and has a square receiver for a slide in ball mount. The ball mount itself can be purchased with the proper drop so the trailer travels absolutely level. (A trailer that is not level will not travel properly and may sway or wear the tires unevenly because the tongue weight of the trailer will be compromised. There is also a likelihood that the trailer can pop off the ball. The horses inside the trailer will find it hard to balance which can cause trailer control problems and extra stress on the horses.)
Each part of the hitch should be rated to match the GVWR of the trailer. For example, if the trailer has a GVWR of 5000 lbs., the hitch, ball mount, and ball must also be rated at least 5000 lbs. The entire rig is only rated as much as its weakest link! A ball that is mounted on a "step bumper" of the truck does not distribute the weight throughout the tow vehicle and it is not adjustable. Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations do not allow a trailer weighing 5000 lbs. or more to be towed by a ball on a step bumper.
The rating of the hitch will be imprinted on the hitch itself. There are two classifications of ratings: "Weight Carrying" determines the maximum weight the hitch can support with the weight of the trailer carried only on the hitch without weight distribution bars. "Weight Distribution" rating determines the amount that can be safely accepted by the hitch with weight distribution bars. Both ratings will be stated on the hitch. The ball and ball mount will also each have the weight rating imprinted in a visible place.
Weight distribution bars, sometimes called "stabilizer bars" or "equalizer bars" distribute the weight of the trailer and tow vehicle throughout the entire combination. When the tongue weight of the trailer rests completely on the rear of the tow vehicle, it can lift the front end of the tow vehicle. The weight distribution bars prevent this from happening. They also increase the GVWR of the hitch. They are very important when towing with a downsized vehicle, a vehicle with a short wheelbase, or a long trailer.
Weight distribution bars can only benefit your situation. Weight distribution bars differ from a "sway bar". If there is a need for a sway bar, there is something wrong with the trailer that shouldn't be happening such as uneven tire pressure, suspension problems, or an unlevel trailer.
Posted 2007-07-05 9:34 AM (#63332 - in reply to #63327) Subject: RE: class III or class IV and why?
Member
Posts: 17
Location: NJ
so if my trailer's gvwr is 7500 lbs, then i should get a hitch for at least that much despite the fact that my truck can only haul 6000 lbs? seems silly...
this was a good explanation, but i still would like to understand whether i need to concern myself with class III or IV or just go by the weight rating on the hitch.
Posted 2007-07-05 9:45 AM (#63333 - in reply to #63327) Subject: RE: class III or class IV and why?
Regular
Posts: 95 Location: East Central Kansas
I will give you my .02 cents worth. If your truck is only rated for 6000lbs, then I would by the class III hitch with a 6000lb ball. If you pull more than that you are going to have to beef up other componets of your truck to match the additional weight.
Posted 2007-07-05 9:48 AM (#63334 - in reply to #63327) Subject: RE: class III or class IV and why?
Member
Posts: 17
Location: NJ
ok. got it.
i have no intention of hauling more than what the truck is rated for, nor do i intend to upgrade any components. at the moment i have a 1850 lbs trailer and a 1000 lbs horse (and that's on a good day, she's small). no intentions for upgrades but i figured i might as well get a hitch that matches whatever the truck is rated for just in case, one day i'm hauling 2 horses.
Posted 2007-07-06 6:56 AM (#63379 - in reply to #63327) Subject: RE: class III or class IV and why?
Elite Veteran
Posts: 648 Location: Coconut Creek, FL
A company that sells and repairs trailers spoke at our club about the correct truck/trailer combos and they advised everyone to get the class IV hitch instead of the class III. The basic reasons were safety, strength, etc..
I followed their advice and pulled a 2H BP with a Ford F150 for 9 years without any issues. The trailer fully loaded for camping weighed in around 6,200 and the truck was rated to pull 7400 lbs. I now have a GN and a 2500HD Diesel.
class III or class IV and why?
