Posted 2007-03-18 10:26 AM (#57263) Subject: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Grafton, Illinois
I am about to replace the floor of an 18' stock trailer. The boards are run width-wise (about 6') and have bracing underneath, they are not fastened but slip into a C-channel on each end. I was trying to figure out what type of wood to go with: pressure treated pine, treated SPF, oak, treated oak or something else. What does everyone think about these and what are some of the pros and cons of the different types?Thanks!
Posted 2007-03-18 10:59 PM (#57285 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 474
Location: White Mills, Ky.
We replaced ours with rough cut oak 2x10s from the Amish. The rough cut gives a little more traction than the smooth finished boards. We have an Amish mill fairly close and they are half the price of Lowe's.
Posted 2007-03-19 10:08 AM (#57304 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Regular
Posts: 58
Location: Clearwater, MN
We used 2 x 8 green treated pine, tounge and groove. We had mats that we used every haul, so traction wasn't a concern for us. Ours was a 16' trailer and it only took about 2 hours to do and we had no problems with it afterwards.
Posted 2007-03-19 4:21 PM (#57330 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 383
Location: Texas
Treated oak would be good, pretty much anything treated would be good. You can also soak it with boiled linseed oil to preserve it, as it dries it hardens and makes the wood stronger, make sure you treat the ends good with something at least. I wouldn't advise any kind of oil if you aren't usung mats because it will be slippery.
Posted 2007-03-19 4:52 PM (#57332 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Grafton, Illinois
Thanks for your suggestions so far...
I am using rubber mats on top so traction won't necessarily be an issue.
The main issue is something that is durable and will last. and Just like all of us, The cost is an issue and i don't want to spend more money than i have to.
Posted 2007-03-19 8:14 PM (#57338 - in reply to #57332) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379
Location: Columbia, TN
I would'nt use the tongue and grooved as it hold moisture and will rot quicker. I would try to get some clear treated pine( no knots ) if you can get it and put it in as tight as you can get it. when it dries you will havesome gaps so moisture can get out. I had an old McQuerry that had clear pine treated the trailer was old when I got it and I keep it 9 yrs and the floor was perfect. It was the original floor.
Posted 2007-03-21 7:55 PM (#57479 - in reply to #57476) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379
Location: Columbia, TN
I don't know what SPF is but it is treated pine the kind that is green and I beleive it is Ponderosa or Yellow pine which I beleive is one in the same. The key is getting the clear no knots.
Posted 2007-03-22 6:17 PM (#57528 - in reply to #57498) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379
Location: Columbia, TN
Boy that is a new one on me I've heard of Spruce, Pine- white, yellow , loblolly and ponderosa and Fir as in Douglas Fir and it may have two r s on it though. Spruce pine fir I would like to see one of those trees.
Posted 2007-03-23 8:49 AM (#57561 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Veteran
Posts: 144
Location: Hickory Hills, IL
I replaced a floor in a trailer with the lenghtwise (~6') boards last fall. Easy as cake, took more time getting the old rotten floor out than the new one in. Hard to get boards out that crumble when you pull on them... At one point I hit a board with a hammer to knock it loose and my hammer went all the way through the board!!!
I used treated 2X8 pine from Home Depot (it was on sale) and picked the best of the pile they had. Went in nice and easy and only cost $150.
Posted 2007-03-24 6:36 PM (#57694 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Grafton, Illinois
Well, started the project this weekend, bought treated pine (which is yellow pine) SPF does mean Spruce, Pine, Fir, which means it is one of those (it is not all in one tree). The whole bill was about $175 from lowes.
I took out all the old boards, some of them were pretty tough but just drove a screw driver down in between the boards and it worked pretty well. Then slid them out. I have a couple of welding things i need to do before i put the new floor in. (i want a couple more braces of angle iron underneath and then spot welds in a couple places then that is it. I'll probably be putting the new floor in next weekend. Thanks for everyones help. Appreciate the input
Posted 2007-03-24 7:10 PM (#57702 - in reply to #57263) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Expert
Posts: 1989
Location: South Central OK
Don't forget to paint the metal bracing with rust inhibitor, every time you do a floor take a wire brush and clean the metal bracing, usea flashlight to really check things out. It's easier to fix things under a trailer if the floor is out. Paint the metal then put your floor down.
I hope you got pressure treated lumber.
Remember to leave spacing between the boards for expansion and urine drainage. The width of a few credit cards will work.
Posted 2007-03-24 7:29 PM (#57704 - in reply to #57702) Subject: RE: Replacing Trailer floor...type of wood
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379
Location: Columbia, TN
No you want to drive them up as tight as you can get them. The treated lumber is so full of moisture it will srink a quarter inch in a month. get it as tight as youcan get it and in a month you will have all the gap you want. A friend of mine took out some of the tongue and groove and wanted enough space so it would drain so he put a roofing nail with the little rubber washers on them. In a 16 foot stock trailer going cross ways he had to add another 2X6 to the end in two months.