It's regularly done for off road trailers. And I've also heard dealers refer to it as Lift for trailers used with 4x4 trucks. I've even seen it offered as a factory option.

The clearance comes in raising the rear bumper so you don't drag it on back country roads. The leveling also helps to clear the bed rails.

Since most 4x4 trucks sit higher than 4x2 trucks, standard trailers when hooked up don't sit level. Gooseneck is higher and bumper is lower than manufacture designed.  Blocking the axles lifts the box so the trailer sits level.

It shouldn't be too difficult. You are just raising the trailer straight up by adding a block  or piece of channel. My dealer quoted me $300-$400 for my trailer.

You CAN do it yourself, me and my brother-in-law did his trailer once... BUT, I wouldn't recomend it and I wouldn't do it again!  If your wagon is fairly new and has any warranty left it will void it.  There are a lot of variables that can get messed up very easily.  IF you can get the axles off without hurting them the big thing is realignment and placement when going back together!  An 1/8 of an inch off, one way or another, can cause big problems... wagon "dog-tracking", uneven tire wear, possible tire heat up and seperation, harder than expected pulling, etc. etc.    You have to get EXACT measurements side to side, then front to rear, then rear axle to front axle, make sure they're square to rear of trailer, then get everything rewelded (or bolted) with out moving ANYTHING!  Very hard to do without proper jigs, equipment and things, not to mention that you will probabaly be upside down doing this, unlike when they aligned and placed the axles at the factory, then the floor of the trailer was more than likely upside down.

  Just some thoughts from someone that has been there, done that and ain't goin' back!  BUT with all that being said... I'm not rich and understand that $1,200 is A LOT of money!  If the trailer is older or something that is not pulled thousands of miles a year...maybee the pros. can out weigh the cons of doing it yourself!  Remember if a dealership does the work they should stand behind it, if you do it... good luck you're on your own if an axle falls off and skeets across the median and wipes out a bus load of nunns or something crazy!

  Good luck and I'll talk to y'all later...

My friend's GN has an adjustable hitch, too, but she has the same problems, her truck is too high for even the lowest adjustment.  Her trailer is slanted about 3-5 inches from the bed to the rear.  With her old truck, the adjustment worked fine, and it was level, but with the new truck, it is way higher.

I have a 2500HD GMC and it is very high, too, I think about 3 inches higher than my last truck as I had to buy all new hitches for my trailers after seeing the trailers weren't level after getting the new truck.

Jbsny

I thought the level part was for the tires so that there was equal pressure on the front and back axles.  At least that was what I had learned from pulling bumpers.  Plus, if the horses are on a slant, they would be on a slight hill.  Long trip might make them tired.  That was the other part I remember learning about trailers not being level.

Maybe I am left over from the 60's!!!!

Jbsny

I ended up selling that trailer and bought another that was blocked 2" at the factory. Sorry I can't help on having comeone do it for me, I really too was concerned about proper alignment, handling, and tire wear.

Reg,

The additional 2" is not for the axle clearance, it is the for clearance of the trailer floor. It is common place, even on ordered units, to block the axles 2" is you are going to put a living quarters in the trailer. The additional 2" helps you keep from dragging your tanks off the bottom of your trailer.