Posted 2016-06-05 9:48 AM (#167237) Subject: Adding an inverter and switch. Questions...
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524 Location: Lone Oak, Tx
I have a question pertaining to installing an inverter in my trailer to run just the fridge while traveling down the highway. I have purchased a 1000w Cobra inverter with remote, a 32a 3 position change over switch to be used as a manual transfer switch and a 150a fuse to be used between the battery and inverter. My question is this, going from the inverter to the switch, do I hardwire the 110v side of the inverter to the switch or can I use a plug, which the inverter has 2 110v outlets, to plug into one of those and wire that to the switch.
I also have a question about wiring my switch I bought. It has 4 connections on each side, is a 3 position switch and I am not really 100% sure how to wire it up. I know the inputs go on the opposite sides but not really sure how to wire the refrigerator connection. Any help will be appreciated.
Posted 2016-06-06 6:42 PM (#167244 - in reply to #167237) Subject: RE: Adding an inverter and switch. Questions...
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379 Location: Missouri
I think you're going to have two problems. First I tired running a dorm fridge on a modified sine wave inverter, the fridge didn't like it. The compressor would try to start and then shut down. Second, I don't believe you'll be able to pass enough current from the vehicle to the trailer battery with the factory wiring to maintain the battery's charge and it will quickly deplete.
Posted 2016-06-07 9:01 AM (#167250 - in reply to #167245) Subject: RE: Adding an inverter and switch. Questions...
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379 Location: Missouri
You are correct, the compressor should have a sticker on it that states the "Lock Rotor Current" that is the max draw to start the compressor. The inverter I tried this on was capable of that current draw. My research later found that a lot of compressors don't like the stepped sine wave aka modified sine wave. It takes a very expensive pure sine wave inverter to operate motors.
Posted 2016-06-07 3:46 PM (#167251 - in reply to #167237) Subject: RE: Aluminum floor and Duplicolor: What is the latest advise with new?
Location: Texas
Do you have a regular rv refrigerator? If so, it doesn't have a compressor and uses either 110ac or 12v.dc to heat the refigerant I think. Your inverter should work, but the plugs are for 110ac output and should go to the fridge. The 12v dc input to the inverter should be wired to your battery switch.
Posted 2016-06-08 4:30 AM (#167258 - in reply to #167237) Subject: RE: Adding an inverter and switch. Questions...
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379 Location: Missouri
I assumed he's trying to do this with a household fridge. I've never seen an RV fridge with only 110v and 12vdc power sources, usually is either gas and 12vdc or gas, 110, and 12vdc. In either case, there would be no reason to go through the hassle of utilizing an inverter.
Adding an inverter and switch. Questions...
