I have a little 2H bumperpull that has been sitting for years. Looks like carpenter ants and/or termites have gotten to the floor. I can hear it 'crackle' under me. So were going to replace the floor. My initial thought was to go ahead and do a 2x6 treated lumber.
My trailer is an old steel trailer. I already know how to treat the rusted steel, so that is no problem. We've already started on it.
But, what about a steel floor? The floor space it 6'5" L x 5' W. What thickness of steel would I need for a solid steel floor? Would it be better in the long run? Would I need to drill holes to allow good drainage?
I know with either option I will need rubber mats.
I've always wanted a "custom" trailer and that is just what we are doing with this trailer. It's going to be a long process, but one I am looking forward to (if I would quit injuring myself BEFORE I even get started!)
Posted 2012-04-24 2:01 PM (#143349 - in reply to #143347) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Working with large pieces of heavy guage sheet steel is awkward, requires a need for specialised tools, and will be difficult to accomplish.
A wood floor can be long lasting, and because it is assembled in small sections at one time, is much easier to fabricate. I would use wider boards than the 2x6s if possible. 2x12's are much more rigid, will have fewer joints and will result in a stronger platform.
With rubber mats on top, the wood floor can last decades, if it is regularly flushed when it's used.
Posted 2012-04-24 2:22 PM (#143350 - in reply to #143349) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
Expert
Posts: 2957 Location: North Carolina
I've replaced a wood floor in a trailer. Instead of pressure treated wood, I suggest rough oak. The rough oak is stronger and thicker than PT wood. With a treatment like Thompson's or similar it will shed water. Along with the ease of fabrication as Gard says, it will be more shock absorbing for the horses. The material is readily available from a pallet maker or saw mill. I was able to buy 10 foot 2x6 boards. Cut in half, I had no wasted wood left over. I do suggest fitting the boards tight together. They will shrink a bit.
Posted 2012-04-24 2:26 PM (#143351 - in reply to #143347) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
Expert
Posts: 2957 Location: North Carolina
When laying the boards in, follow the end grain so that the growth rings are arched up. The boards will shrink and having the arch up, they'll shed liquid vs cupping and holding liquid.
Posted 2012-04-24 3:26 PM (#143354 - in reply to #143347) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
New User
Posts: 2
Location: Florida
Thanks for the replies! It will only be my boyfriend and I doing the floor. While I have access to a machine shop, it seems that it would still be way to much for just the two of us.
So 2x12 would be better? I'm not sure where to find a sawmill at or pallet maker at.
What is the best way to lay the wood? Currently it is in left to right. I was told it is probably best to do front to back.
Posted 2012-04-24 7:27 PM (#143359 - in reply to #143354) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
If you use pressure treated Souther Yellow Pine, 2x12's can be purchased off the racks at any lumber yard. All of the surfaces are treated against the weather and bug infestation, and most have an R-40 rating, so any extra coating of the bottom is unnecessary. Many will sell a #1 grade which has fewer knots than the common #2. The cost isn't much more, and the boards are even stronger. Tight knots are fine for this use, but don't select or use any boards with shakes extending to the outside from the interior.
Most trailer frames use a "ladder" type of structure, where the floor joists are joined laterally, from side to side, to the outside perimeter framework. The best orientation for the floorboards is length wise from end to end, with the joists supporting the individual boards.
Most pallet companies will not custom cut their wood, and their business is very strict with the final dimensions of their products. If you can find one of the many small sawmills country wide, they can custom cut the thicknesses and widths of many hardwood species that would suffice.
A store bought board is dimensioned less than its advertised sizing by at least a half an inch. A lumber mill can cut an actual 8 quarter, (2") board. Oak, Popular and Ash are only a few of the species that would work. Southern Yellow Pine is considered a soft wood, but is actually rated higher in various strengths than some hard woods.
Posted 2012-04-25 10:10 AM (#143367 - in reply to #143347) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
Location: Georgia
Keep in mind that pressure-treated lumber has a treated exterior, it does not penetrate the wood all the way through. When you cut it or drill it, you need to reseal that area that is newly exposed to maintain long life. Most pallet plants use a lower grade of lumber than the #1 that Gard mentioned. Also if you buy lumber from a mill, be sure it is dried. It you buy it green it will shrink considerably after application. Also green lumber is not as strong as dried lumber.
Posted 2014-12-04 8:34 PM (#161934 - in reply to #143347) Subject: RE: Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
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Posts: 1
We had never inquired what it would cost to replace the axles and had we known, probably would have gone to the heavier axle right away & by that time, all the trailers were being built with torsion axles. Chalk it up to one of life's learning experiences.
Replacing wood floor with solid steel? (2H Bumperpull)
