I got my new gridwall storage system today.. i went ahead and ordered it from organized barn and trailer so that I could see how it goes together, but will order any additions from another (less expensive) company..

Don't I need self-tapping screws to mount this inside the dressing room on my BP Hart?  Can I get them from Lowes or Home Depot?  What size/length would I need?.. I'm guessing I'd need to pre-drill a hole.. Do I need a special bit for that?  Would I need to put sealant around the hole before (or after) inserting the screw? Or a rubber or-ring? Or anything? I thought that since I was going to be screwing holes into my trailer, I'd also mount the two rubber/plastic brush boxes I bought a long time ago..I (think) I'd be mounting the grid on the supports inside my DR, but in the case of the brush boxes, they'd be mounted on the smooth inside surface of the door. I've not heard of these screws except through this website.. Is there a backing or something to these screws to keep them from backing out?.. Especially the shorter ones that would be used in the DR door?. 

Thanks for any and all help.. I have learned a lot from this website..

 I assume your Hart is all aluminum, so any attaching hardware should NOT be affixed with zinc plated steel hardware. You will need to use stainless steel products, which are available in limited styles at most big box stores.

There are several styles of metal screws that can be used. The typical pan head, coarse thread, tapered shaft, sheet metal screw is a poor choice. When used in thick metals that are relatively unyielding, they will tend to bind up, and when additional torque is applied to seat them, the heads typically shear off. They are made for thin sheet metal applications, and are ideal for furnace ducting installations and such similar uses.

Whenever you are screwing into structural elements, such as the frame work of a trailer, you will encounter thicker extrusions that require more apropos hardware for proper attachments. This hardware will include metal screws such as "TEK" which have a self drilling shank design, or a type "F" thread cutting screw. The "TEK" screws do not need a pilot hole for their application, the type "F" do. Because the "TEK" screws have a hardened cutting tip, they are more expensive to purchase. Drilling a pilot hole for the "F" screws only takes one more step and will save some money. It is also easier to be more precise in the exact placement of a screw, when using a predrilled hole.

They are both available in a variety of head designs. The best is the hex head in which a nut driver accessory can be attached to a power tool to ease the application. They are available as a washer head, pan head, "O" ring inserts for external applications, and are also made with a common or phillips insert.

The length of the screws will depend on the thickness of the material you are applying, and the thickness of the metal into which you are drilling. You have to completely penetrate the thickness of both, so the grip length of the screws' shanks will be the total thickness of both plus an additional 1/4".

Once installed, the screws will not back out. There is no need for a sealant unless the attachments are exposed to the weather.

BOL  Gard