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Winterizing! help!

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-10-14 4:27 AM (#111845 - in reply to #111754)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Originally written by rockyrider on 2009-10-12 3:25 AM

What is max PSIG when blowing lines out via city water connection?

25-30 PSI

Gard

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okie ann
Reg. Jul 2009
Posted 2009-10-14 6:26 AM (#111846 - in reply to #111828)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Originally written by okie ann on 2009-10-13 6:23 PM

today i was thinking about coming on here and asking the same question. i have been paying the RV center $85.00 to winterize my sundowner the last two years. i have a cowboy shower, no toilet.  it usually takes them 15 minutes to winterize, but now i think i can do it myself. let me see if i get this correct. i want to pull the plug in the hot water heater and let it drain. put the plug back in and do NOT light the hot water heater during this process. i can dump 4 gallons of the pink RV anitfreeze into the water tank, turn on all faucets, and pump it thru the system till i see pink out of all faucets.

turn off pump, leave all faucets open for the winter. i asked the RV dealer if it hurt the hot water heater to have the antifreeze in it and he said no.   

thanks. 

 

 bump

 

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rick
Reg. Feb 2004
Posted 2009-10-14 12:44 PM (#111859 - in reply to #111252)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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I would look to see if you have and extra little stub of a hose coming out of the water tank and insert that into the 1 gallon bottle of antifreeze instead of dumping antifreeze into your fresh water tank. Turn on the pump and it will suck the antifreeze out when the faucet is also on. Otherwise come spring you better hope all the antifreeze is flushed out of the tank, unless you don't drink it??

Just what works for me, easy and less than 30 min.
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walzhorses
Reg. Oct 2009
Posted 2009-10-15 1:48 PM (#111894 - in reply to #111252)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Location: ne
When Jim winterizes ours he lets the pump run (we have an outside drain valve) until all pump runs out of water.  He then hooks an air compressor up to one of the hoses (one that is for this) and blows out all the water in the lines.  there is usually a little bit of freshwater left in the bottom of that tank but it isn't a big deal if 1/4 inch or so freezes because it doesn't hurt the tank....
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Yvette
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2009-10-18 11:33 AM (#112024 - in reply to #111252)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!



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I'd buy two gallons of the RV anti freeze, just to be sure you have enough. If you only use one, you have one on stand by for after your winter trip.The water heater has a release valve. You should be able to see it when you drop the outside panel. You will want to do this when the heater is off and the water is cool, as escaping steam could hurt. The instructions with my camper (I have a Lance camper for the back of my pickup, not a living quarter horse trailer, but I'd think the principle is the same) says to leave the valve open. Not sure if that is necessary, but who am I to argue. Anyway, look under your sink and if you are lucky you will have a couple of valves that say Winterize on them. If not, look for valves that can be shut off to your water tank and the water heater. Closing them will keep the RV anti freeze from getting into the tanks which you will want to be as empty as possible. Water expands when it freezes. Then like someone else said there should be a hose under the sink that you stick the anti freeze in, turn on the pump open faucets, flush toilet, shower, until antifreeze flows out. Close the faucets, etc. You'll want some in the traps and a little in the holding tanks is OK too.The only reason you really don't want to get the RV antifreeze into your water tank and your water heater is it will take a lot more effort to flush those tanks out. It may be non toxic, but chances are you don't want to be drinking, washing dishes or showering in any more of it then you have to anyway. Otherwise, it doesn't take much to flush out the rest of the plumbing system. Which you will want to do before reopening the valves to the tanks when you dewinterize it.I was a bit nervous the first time doing this, but once done all I could think was, that was easy.
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okie ann
Reg. Jul 2009
Posted 2009-10-20 7:30 AM (#112119 - in reply to #112024)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Originally written by Yvette on 2009-10-18 11:33 AM

I'd buy two gallons of the RV anti freeze, just to be sure you have enough. If you only use one, you have one on stand by for after your winter trip.The water heater has a release valve. You should be able to see it when you drop the outside panel. You will want to do this when the heater is off and the water is cool, as escaping steam could hurt. The instructions with my camper (I have a Lance camper for the back of my pickup, not a living quarter horse trailer, but I'd think the principle is the same) says to leave the valve open. Not sure if that is necessary, but who am I to argue. Anyway, look under your sink and if you are lucky you will have a couple of valves that say Winterize on them. If not, look for valves that can be shut off to your water tank and the water heater. Closing them will keep the RV anti freeze from getting into the tanks which you will want to be as empty as possible. Water expands when it freezes. Then like someone else said there should be a hose under the sink that you stick the anti freeze in, turn on the pump open faucets, flush toilet, shower, until antifreeze flows out. Close the faucets, etc. You'll want some in the traps and a little in the holding tanks is OK too.The only reason you really don't want to get the RV antifreeze into your water tank and your water heater is it will take a lot more effort to flush those tanks out. It may be non toxic, but chances are you don't want to be drinking, washing dishes or showering in any more of it then you have to anyway. Otherwise, it doesn't take much to flush out the rest of the plumbing system. Which you will want to do before reopening the valves to the tanks when you dewinterize it.I was a bit nervous the first time doing this, but once done all I could think was, that was easy.

are you saying to leave the release valve open when running the antifreeze thru the system and leaving it open all winter? or closing the release valve after i am done winterizing?

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-10-20 9:01 AM (#112126 - in reply to #112119)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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The "release" valve, the T & P valve, can be used to release pressure in the tank before you pull the drain plug. This prevents pressure in the tank from blowing hot water on your hands when the drain plug is removed. By leaving the valve open while the tank is being drained, air will enter the top, and the tank will drain faster.

You can effect the same pressure reduction, by simply turning off the water pump and opening a hot water faucet

Because your hot water tank bypass valves are closed to the tank, the T & P valve will have no affect on the purging of the water system, while installing the antifreeze.

Gard



Edited by gard 2009-10-20 9:53 AM
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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2009-10-29 10:30 AM (#112544 - in reply to #111252)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Gard- Used your method to blow out my lines yesterday. Seemed fairly easy, compared to putting in anti-freeze. Only question is, do you open both valves on a faucet while purging, or just the hot and then the cold? Have to say it is a two person operation, wife in the trailer and me outside with the air hose. And just to clarify, you said the pump would purge itself? I have the "T" after the pump.

Thanks in advance!

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-10-29 4:10 PM (#112559 - in reply to #112544)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Location: western PA

It's easier to maintain the air pressure if one valve is opened at a time. The end results have to be the same; air flow only without any fluid being presented.

The pump cannot purge itself if the "T" is after the pump. The pump has an internal check valve that prevents any fluid from being forced backwards through the pump body. The easiest way is to use the antifreeze adapter on the pump's inlet. Apply air pressure from an air nozzle on the open tube, and the air will force any fluid through the pump to your water system.

For a couple of dollars, an air adapter can be purchased that allows an air hose to screw into your shore water supply. This then allows one person to do the winterizing.

Glad it worked out for you. It's a simple and inexpensive way to purge the system. In the spring you don't have to flush antifreeze.

Gard

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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2009-11-07 2:42 PM (#112888 - in reply to #111252)
Subject: RE: Winterizing! help!


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Another question. A friend said there was another valve in the toilet that didn't always open when you held the flush pedal down, and his froze and broke the toilet. Any knowledge about this?

Thanks in advance!

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