Posted 2009-09-17 11:42 AM (#110801) Subject: Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
Veteran
Posts: 151 Location: Manitoba, Canada
We traded in the 1999 Chev 3500 for a 2007 Dodge 3500 Mega cab. Love the truck, hate that it's so darn high off the ground.
Now I find I'm watching the box of the truck whenever I'm driving through a pothole or making a turn, hoping to have enough clearance for the trailer. The last truck sat a lot lower to the ground, and there was quite a bit of space between the top of the box and the underside of the trailer gooseneck.
What are my options here for increased space? Currently, the trailer will sit level when connected.
Posted 2009-09-17 12:41 PM (#110803 - in reply to #110801) Subject: RE: Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
Expert
Posts: 1351 Location: Decatur, Texas
Originally written by TPenning on 2009-09-17 11:42 AM
We traded in the 1999 Chev 3500 for a 2007 Dodge 3500 Mega cab. Love the truck, hate that it's so darn high off the ground.
Now I find I'm watching the box of the truck whenever I'm driving through a pothole or making a turn, hoping to have enough clearance for the trailer. The last truck sat a lot lower to the ground, and there was quite a bit of space between the top of the box and the underside of the trailer gooseneck.
What are my options here for increased space? Currently, the trailer will sit level when connected.
The only real option if you want the trailer to set level would be to block the axles of the trailer and extend the hitch to clear the bed. That is one major reason I went with a hauler bed/flatbed this time. Most newer trailers have a lowered nose and have trouble with newer trucks.
Posted 2009-09-20 2:10 PM (#110891 - in reply to #110801) Subject: RE: Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 489 Location: CA
I had this exact problem when I bought a new(then) '01 Dodge 4X4 to replace my '81 Chevy. I ended up raising the trailer ('92 Featherlite) by blocking the axles, and lowering the truck. The Dodge dealer had a "kit" that they used, and since this was a new problem around '01, they had lots of complaints from 5th wheel and gooseneck haulers. They lowered the truck absolutely free....didn't even charge for labor. See if they'll do that for you too. The truck could only be lowered so far, so I then had to block the axles on the trailer, which I paid for:(. The trailer is still a bit slanted uphill, but it's pretty close to level, the horses don't seem to mind, and I haven't hit the rails even once on uneven surfaces. Yay! Good luck.
Posted 2009-09-21 12:44 PM (#110932 - in reply to #110801) Subject: RE: Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
Expert
Posts: 2453 Location: Northern Utah
Before you go to a lot of expense of blocking axles or lowering the truck. Try adjusting your gooseneck coupler. If you raise it one or two holes, It may give you enough clearance. Then take a look at your trailer after the adjustment. Weigh it on a scale and seem how much difference you have in the weight on each axle. Lots of trailers on todays trucks go down the road with a slight nose up angle. If you have not seriosuly over loaded your rear axle, you may just get away with the adjustment.
But if you are close or marginal on your axle weights before lifting the nose, or if you exceed the axle/tire ratings when you weigh it. You will need to consider the other options.
Posted 2009-10-25 10:00 AM (#112360 - in reply to #110932) Subject: RE: Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
Veteran
Posts: 151 Location: Manitoba, Canada
Originally written by Painted Horse on 2009-09-21 12:44 PM
Weigh it on a scale and seem how much difference you have in the weight on each axle.
Is it better to weight the trailer empty, or loaded, or both? Also, it's a 4 horse trailer, so I might have only one horse, or several. How do I factor this in, or do I really need to?
Posted 2009-10-25 10:45 AM (#112362 - in reply to #112360) Subject: RE: Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Originally written by TPenning on 2009-10-25 11:00 AM
Originally written by Painted Horse on 2009-09-21 12:44 PM
Weigh it on a scale and seem how much difference you have in the weight on each axle.
Is it better to weight the trailer empty, or loaded, or both? Also, it's a 4 horse trailer, so I might have only one horse, or several. How do I factor this in, or do I really need to?
Your ultimate goal is to have as close an equal weight on both axles as possible. If the nose is raised too high without blocking the axles, you will add more weight to the rear axle than the front. This can cause an overloading, possible mechanical failure, and at the least, rapid tire wear. The three points, the pin and two axles should carry as even a weight as possible.
When you load your horses, if the weight is balanced as much as possible over the axles, it will help to even your weight distribution between them. Loading your trailer to the end stalls, will either increase your pin weight or the weight on the rear axle.
Your trailer will have to be raised evenly until the bed clearance issues are resolved. It may be that your trailer height situation, cannot be corrected by simply raising one end or the other. You can weigh the trailer empty. Once a height and balance are correctly established, you can then vary your loading patterns, to what works the best for your circumstances.
Tall box, low gooseneck, now what?
