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3.0 refrigerator

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Last activity 2008-05-29 8:45 AM
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Shelly
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2008-05-28 8:14 AM (#84792)
Subject: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 3

We have a manual start fridge that only has problems starting in the summer. We leave it on electric but when we go to start it on propane in the summer it takes forever to start. Sometimes we have to wait to get somewhere then it will start..maybe..We have had it serviced and thought we got it but here it goes again..any help..thanks so much
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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2008-05-28 9:29 AM (#84803 - in reply to #84792)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 5870
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Location: western PA

You may have a loose gas fitting that is allowing the propane to escape when your fridge is not being used. This will allow air to enter the line and make lighting difficult. You can try bleeding the line before you initiate your gas start. I would check all your fittings and lines with soapy water to determine the integrity of your gas plumbing. Any bubbles will indicate a leak.

Gard

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Shelly
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2008-05-28 9:48 AM (#84805 - in reply to #84792)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 3

Thanks..we will do just that
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Mini Oaks
Reg. Nov 2005
Posted 2008-05-28 1:12 PM (#84816 - in reply to #84805)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 32
25
Location: Louisiana

Our previous trailer had a 3.0 3 way (electric, propane, & 12v) fridge that was hard to start on propane. What I eventually found worked best was to open the propane bottle value about 5 to 10 minutes prior to trying to light the fridge, then hold the gas pilot light button in for at least 1 minute before trying to light the fridge, then push the striker button only once and then watch the gauge which in most cases went very slowly from the red (off) area to the green (on) area. Once the gauge reached the green area, then I would release the gas pilot light button, but not before. If I pushed the striker button more than once, it was actually blowing the pilot light out which I noticed when I had taken the outside cover off and had my wife pushing the striker button repeatedly inside. Good luck finding the trick on you unit.

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grumpyoldman
Reg. May 2007
Posted 2008-05-28 4:17 PM (#84826 - in reply to #84792)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 47
25
Location: Grayson Co. Texas
A little trick someone told me was that I turn the water heater on and it starts the pilot light automatically.  I let it get fired up a minute and then start the fridge.  I;m sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but I think since it cranks up the light, it's easier to start the fridge/
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Shelly
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2008-05-28 9:57 PM (#84850 - in reply to #84792)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 3

Thanks to all..I will try them all..did any of you have a harder time starting it in the summer..that's when it is the hardest to ..I live in Louisiana and I am wondering if the humidity is not helping things much..img src=HTTP://www.horsetrailerworld.com/forum/emoticons/icon_aug4.gif border=0>
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Dunoir
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2008-05-29 7:43 AM (#84851 - in reply to #84792)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 648
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Location: Coconut Creek, FL

I've also had the same starting issues with mine - thanks for all the tips.  One other thing you need to do is clean the pilot light area. 

Remove the outside cover and there is a small cover to the pilot light - using a toothbrush you have to put it inside that area and brush the blue cylinder, clearing off old debris.  You can also use a straw to blow the stuff away. 

A fellow camper had a service call on her fridge and she watched what the guy did - procedure above - he charged her $90 for the call.  She now does it herself and passed the info on to the rest of us.   

 



Edited by Dunoir 2008-05-29 7:50 AM
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RTSmith
Reg. Nov 2003
Posted 2008-05-29 8:45 AM (#84852 - in reply to #84792)
Subject: RE: 3.0 refrigerator


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Posts: 795
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Location: Tenn/Ala.
You might want to have the LP gas pressure checked. It is adjusted at the regulator and is supposed to be 11" W.C. pressure. After a time of use, probably from the vibrations of driving, it will sometimes need to be reset. It is not difficult to do and an RV tech will often take the opportunity to do a leakdown test at the same time using a special low pressure guage. But if the pressure has dropped to 9.5-10" the high usage appliances will often work OK (water heater, furnace) but since the fridge uses such a little flame it can become difficult to get lit. Low volume in your bottles can exaggerate the situation also.
RTSmith
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