Posted 2011-09-07 12:30 AM (#137297) Subject: Wiring
New User
Posts: 3
Location: IL
Hello all,
I am hoping someone can help me out, just last weekend I noticed my tack room lights and rear load lights were not coming on. All of my driving/running lights were working fine. I have never had this problem before, since they have worked all year long I am thinking it has to be either poor connection, adapter is faulty, or maybe a fuse in my truck is out? I would love to be able to fix this myself if possible, despite the fact that I am not usually a DIY person, I just have the feeling this has to be something simple and would like to at least try instead of spending $100+ somewhere for a 10 minute fix.
Thanks in advance :)
Posted 2011-09-08 3:50 AM (#137324 - in reply to #137297) Subject: RE: Wiring
Member
Posts: 45
If your trucker is newer it should have a fuse for trailer 12v(power). I would first get(or buy) a multimeter or voltmeter(cheap one is fine). Using the meter, check for 12v at your truck connector. Checking here first will rule out if the problem is with truck or the trailer wiring. Here is a website for wiring diagram of plug-in(you'll have to use either 6 or 7way diagram depending on your plug-in): http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
"The following is done after all attempts of wriggling and cursing at the two trailer connectors together have failed"
If you have no power at truck connector, check for fuse in truck, than visually check both plug-ins where they meet for rust, corrosion or broke pins/spades. Than check wiring on truck connector(taking it apart if needed). The connectors on truck and trailer do not last forever and are notorious for being the main culprits. I keep a new connector for truck and trailer in the trailer(with tools/meter to change) if needed. A lot of truck connectors are made to plug into a vehicle harness. I will unplug the line at the harness, and check for 12v in the vehicle harness. If the fuse is fine and no volts at rear harness, I assume their is a break in the line from front to rear of truck. Worst case, if you can't find break is to run new power wire from front to back plug-in. Can just run wire off battery(with fuse holder,rated for wire, using usually 10-12 gauge wire and 20amp fuse) straight back to trailer connector.
If you have power at the truck connector, than the problem is with the trailer wiring. Since you have two separate circuits on 12v not working, and your other lights are working, we can assume your ground wiring is ok in trailer(#1 on the list of why don't it work). I would check front to back on trailer starting at plug-in. Remove round cover to trailer plug and pull back round cover(careful to not pull any wires with it). Visually check wiring that its connected to all pins. I will plug it into truck(with cover still back) and with meter check for voltage on backside of plug.
If still no voltage follow wiring from front to back of trailer where switches for lights are. Pay particular attention to any junction boxes or anywhere power wire has been spliced(either by crimp connectors or wire nuts), these are prime areas for breaks, along with switches and light fixtures themselves. Use your meter and check for voltage at all those locations. Hopefully you'll have found your problem by the time you reach back of trailer. If not, and the gremlin persists, worse case would be to run a new power wire from trailer plug-in to your switches or as far back to where you have good wiring.
Sorry to be long winded, but hopefully this will give you a start to checking and fixing your problem. Its usually not difficult(unless wiring hidden in walls or metal tubing), it can just be time consuming. The above info is also for non-lq trailers, I've never owned a lq and not sure if there is a fuse box for trailer wiring in lq area. Good Luck.
Posted 2011-09-08 12:26 PM (#137331 - in reply to #137297) Subject: RE: Wiring
Member
Posts: 40 Location: Laguna Hills, CA
If it is a ford that wire is only powered when your truck is running. make sure it is running before you try your tack room lights and loading lights (unless you have a battery of course.) ask me how I know?
Posted 2011-09-13 12:02 AM (#137483 - in reply to #137297) Subject: RE: Wiring
New User
Posts: 3
Location: IL
Hi everyone,
I thought I would send an update so that no one thought I had died from stress and cursing the wiring.
First I thought it had to be a fuse, so I went to O'reiley's and they said all my fuses were fine.
I did buy one of those voltage checker instruments one of you mentioned. All of the prongs on the back of my truck, which is an older half ton chevy, were working. Then I looked at my adapter and for some reason the pin that is for the Auxiliary was pushed down so it wasn't level with the other pins. I tried pulling it up with pliers but that didn't seem to help matters. So then I went and got a new adapter, but off course I had to switch the wires on that because I guess I didn't get the right kind because the pins weren't lining up quite right.
It still doesn't really make all that much sense to me. When my truck is off, my dressing room and load lights are supposed to come on so long as they are plugged in, so when I use the tester, only the pin at 1:00 shows light. That part makes since because the diagram shows the 1:00 position with (+) so I take it that is just extra.
However apparently on the adapters the Auxiliary and the Electric Brake wires are interchangeable.
I would of thought that my white (auxiliary) wire which is the center pin on the trailer plug would have to be in the 1:00 position on the adapter to match the truck receptacle, but on the adapter the white wire was in the 3:00 position.
Anyways sorry for the long post. My lights are working now, although while I was working on that, I realized that my battery back-up thing for the brakes is completely dead and does not seem to want to re-charge. I don't know what the life-span is on those. Does anyone know where to get one?
Wiring
