Posted 2007-03-19 7:46 AM (#57296) Subject: 2h trailer floor questions
Member
Posts: 5
Just got a used 2horse, probably 70's era, Hale. Its in fairly decent shape, with some elbow grease will be a good little get around trailer for me. However, the floor needs some work. It's set up as one metal center "I beam" type thing with 2 "stalls" for the floor, so each stall has like 15+/- boards running side to side (perpendicular) to the way the horse stands in there. I read one post on here saying that was bad. Any idea why? Also, when I replace the wood, I was thinking of putting some kind of rubber coating / rhino type lining stuff on the inside of the horse stall area. Any reason NOT to do this? How about coating the boards w/ the stuff before I install the floor? And how about putting this stuff on the underneath of the trailer (after servicing of course)? Any reason NOT to do it? Thanks!
Posted 2007-03-19 2:56 PM (#57318 - in reply to #57296) Subject: RE: 2h trailer floor questions
Expert
Posts: 1989 Location: South Central OK
Before you rip the floor out go to a welding shop and see if the floor bracing need to be replaced. Trailer floors should run front to back, this is true in 2 horse trailers. If your floor braces run front to back that's bad, the braces should run side to side, across the boards. If they need to be re-done the welder can fix you up. Placing a new floor on bad braces is a recipe for disaster. While the floor looks good the braces are breaking off the trailer. First things first! (I only use pressure treated 2x8 or wider for my floors and self tapping metal screws to attach them to the bracing.)
The coatings are good but be careful that you can either inspect or coat the underside also. Again, the floor will look fine but it's what lies underneath that's important. I'd be careful not to apply to much coating, over screws/electrical wires/moving parts. I wouldn't assume that someone that sells the stuff knows much about the inner workings of a horse trailer. Also you may find that after all this is done you would have saved money by purchasing a newer trailer that wasn't in need of such expensive work, these liners are not cheap! I've seen quotes on this site for $300/linear foot just for one side of the floor.
Get the floor sorted out first including the bracing then in time move on to other projects.
Posted 2007-03-19 3:07 PM (#57321 - in reply to #57296) Subject: RE: 2h trailer floor questions
Member
Posts: 5
Thanks huntseat! My fiance is a welder and he's going to replace/fix the brace(s) for me, and yes they are in bad shape. I figured since we were down under there tearing stuff up we might as well go ahead and replace the floor. If this trailer is set up with the main brace running front to back down the center of the stall, should it be converted? or can it just be cross-braced some how? Thanks again!
Posted 2007-03-19 3:29 PM (#57326 - in reply to #57296) Subject: RE: 2h trailer floor questions
Expert
Posts: 1989 Location: South Central OK
If the main brace can be converted, I'd ask your welder. Only he can tell you exactly based on the construction of the trailer frame. It would be best to have as little metal on the floor exposed to urine as possible, this is a formula for rust. I'd question about how the divider plays into this floor brace. You'd hate to put in a new floor only to realize the divider now won't work.
You may find that you'll be replacing lots more once you get into the project, you can't weld to bad metal!
Always paint your exposed metal with a rust inhibitor before placing your floor down.
Posted 2007-03-19 9:48 PM (#57352 - in reply to #57296) Subject: RE: 2h trailer floor questions
Member
Posts: 5
huntseat, thanks again! 50 I'll talk to him about it and see what he says (he's only seen cell phone pics of the floor). I'll keep everyone updated! Thanks!
2h trailer floor questions
