A better question should be; "why don't trailers leak?"

Most horse trailers are built with formed aluminum sheets fastened over a supporting structure. The aluminum is water proof, it doesn't leak. It is used in the construction of automobiles, airplanes, space shuttles, boats, soft drink cans, even the compressed air cylinders in my scuba gear. It is strong; it can be continuously stretched, compressed, bent, heated and cooled and it still will maintain its strength.

When it is installed on the roof of your trailer, it is bright, shiny and pristine. The only seams are on the trailer sides and ends where the flat roof transitions into the vertical sidewalls. This is done by cutting, bending and welding, or attaching formed pieces to it. If turned upside down, it could very well be the hull of a boat,...... and not leak a drop.

Now the problems start. It doesn't leak, so it also doesn't have ventilation. We need to have vents for ourselves and the horses. We need a large one, so lets cut a hole about 1 1/2' square right in the middle of the roof. Each horse needs one, lets cut three more holes in the aluminum. Attached to these holes are the vents we want to install; the large one has an equally large flange that is drilled to allow screws to hold the vent to the roof. Lets say there are a dozen screws that hold things together, we now have to drill a dozen holes in our not so pristine piece of metal. Each horse vent will require maybe six or eight more screws and an equal number of holes. How many holes are there now in the metal? Are you counting?

Now, we aren't simple inhabitants, and our demands exceed those of just a vented interior. We want a refrigerator, toilet and shower, and an air conditioner; we want to be as comfortable at a campsite as we are at home. An air conditioner requires another hole about 1 1/2 feet square, and it is secured in place by another dozen screws; the refrigerator is gas and another hole and vent cover is needed. Want a toilet? We need a stack vent for the waste water tank, and the same if we have a sink. Want a TV antenna? Solar charger? Start to get the idea?

What happened to our perfect piece of aluminum? It now looks like a piece of Swiss cheese and has had many dozens of screw holes drilled into it. A young person is sitting on the roof with a power tool, various vents, a caulking gun and a large box of screws. It is his job to apply a bead of sealant around the holes, adjust the various flanges to their correct positions, and drill and fasten them to the roof.

The tube of caulking empties just before he completed his circling of caulk around the hole. It's just before his break time, so he smears the caulk around to fill the gap, puts the vent on and leaves. Another worker, using his power tool, over tightens one of the flange screws. The plastic flange cracks with an almost indeterminable line that is difficult to see.

The beautiful new trailer is now going 70 mph down the road to the dealer. A truck passes him going the other way at a similar speed. All of the non- aerodynamic vents that are fastened to the roof, were just hit with a combined wind speed that equaled the most dangerous of hurricanes. How many more times did this occur in just this one trip? Can you imagine the stresses that are placed on those components?

It's starting to rain now, and at 70 mph the rain is being forced into the smallest of cracks. Remember the plastic flange that is cracked?

The trailer is sitting at the dealer. It is baking in the hot sun, and the metal has expanded significantly. That evening it is very cold, and the metal shrinks, pulling itself into a smaller section. This will happen at every temperature change.

The trailer, now being enjoyed by its new owners, has a full load of horses and tack and is on its way to a trail ride in the mountains. It's off the road now, going up a twisting and bumpy road that resembles a cow path. The trailer is creaking and groaning as its body is being twisted by the uneven ground. The stresses on the front hitch are significant, while the frame is being pulled from the tons of tension from the tires. It would be as if a giant pair of hands were trying to twist and pull the trailer apart.

The trailer has survived several years of torture. It has been baked, frozen, pulled, and tortured in many ways. The caulking, installed by the young workers has long ago dried out and is no longer flexible. One more time, the metal contracts and this time the caulking cannot maintain the gap; it fails and pulls apart. The rain comes, and the small gap in the caulking, maybe as narrow as a paper thickness, allows the water to enter. At first it isn't noticeable, but over time the caulking continues to deteriorate, and the leak gets larger until it is apparent.

The whole crux of this tale is to show that the aluminum roofs don't leak. The joints where the roof and the holes meet are the source of problems. It all depends on the integrity of the caulking used to seal the  joint. If it is improperly applied or old and worn out, you will have a leak... REGARDLESS OF THE TRAILER BRAND. Your trailer has endured a great deal of punishment, while only demanding a minimal amount of maintenance. Your multiple thousand dollar trailer is dependent on $20 worth of caulking to remain water tight.

Whether there is a gap of caulking missing during manufacture or a worn out strip many years later, 99% of leaks can be attributed to caulking problems.

BOL  Gard

Candy,

Not even close. I'm a retired commercial airline mechanic and boat builder. My present duties include cabinet making.

I was just trying to debunk this continual mess about leaking roofs and certain brands. Hope it alleviates some of the misconceptions.

BOL  Gard

Gard,

Does this mean I can get you to work on my trailer and my 41 year old Sea Ray at the same time! I'm not sure which black hole is bigger ~ the free boat from my childhood that I am unwilling to part with, or the 3 year old Qt. horse that stands in the barn that I need to finish a dressing room for so that I can.......the list goes on!

I still would like to get directy in touch with you about finding products in VA to finish the trailer.

Thanks

Great thread,Gard,and told as only an airline mechanic could describe.I imagine the building of airliners isn't very different.The smallest crack can reap a lot of damage.

Case in point that brings to my mind: the Silver Bridge in Point Pleasant W VA.across the Ohio River.When constructed it was an engineering marvel. it was also meant to stand for 100 years or more.It was a suspension bridge hung by a new type of steel "eye bar" suspension supports that were cast from high strength steel.On the outside it looked strong,but made for a weak interior.one of the eyebars had a microscopic crack in the clevage and was undetected,but over the years the corrosion,stresses ect.took its toll,and on December 15,1967,it fell with 46 lives lost.

It only takes a little tiny defect to start up a great big mess,right? Kind of like some of the threads on here. 

Instead of "defect" I think I originally meant to say "crack." In retrospect after some posts,THAT would have been even worse a "crack" for me to have made!

Gard,

Does this mean I can get you to work on my trailer and my 41 year old Sea Ray at the same time! I still would like to get directly in touch with you about finding products in VA to finish the trailer.

Hi

You might have a problem with my CEO,CFO or general boss in charge who has a never ending list. I could make an exception about the boat though....

I don't know if I can help with VA products, but I'll try to give you whatever info I can so you can procure what you need.

BOL  Gard

It only takes a little tiny defect to start up a great big mess,right? Kind of like some of the threads on here. 

Good point CRG.

Many people don't realize the power of their words and the damage a misconception can create. Broad statements without a cause, seem to be a common problem whenever there are discussions. Fortunately this forum has a proliferation of qualified posters that quickly quell the naysayers.

BOL  Gard

So why did you tell the op they were ripped off on their caulk?  "ripped off" is pretty strong language.

Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa, Mea Maxima Culpa.

Horsey, I am very sorry that my language was too strong for the sensibilities of the readers of this forum. It certainly was not my intention to debase or degrade anyone, in my criticism of an outrageous price being charged to an unwitting buyer.

I used the language with which I am most comfortable, and unknowingly offended an unwitting reader. I most humbly apologize for my transgressions and vow never to again utter the words "ripped off".

I remain your humble servant,   Gard

I think Mother Nature will prove out herself here eventually.Respect on.

 Gard So why did you tell the op they were ripped off on their caulk? You have no direct knowledge of the particular part she was sold, nor the specifics of the distribution channel......Maybe not the best place to buy it, but "ripped off" is pretty strong language.

Horsey

Now that the niceties are out of the way, I'll answer your statement.

I do have a particular knowledge of silicone sealants, I know what they are, what they cost and how they are used. I don't need to know how they are distributed, it's not relevant.

I am deeply disturbed when someone takes advantage of another person, while using his lack of knowledge against him. An "expert" is supposed to help and guide other people by sharing his knowledge. He should not use his expertise to his benefit, in an effort to gain an unfair advantage.

These people are not helping you, they are helping themselves under the guise that they are doing the best for you. Horsey, that is called a rip off and it's not right. A spade is a spade. Notice I did not use the word rip__d.

I also believe that it is in our best interest to expose these people, so that other people in search of materials and knowledge, will not unnecessarily waste their time and money. I don't like or want to be a victim. I'm sure others feel the same way.

Gard

Excellent reading. Thank you!!!

Also, one point that wasn't mention is poor engineering. My old trailer (steel) is a 1994 Logan Coach and during that time, they, for some dumb reason, built the front portion of the roof (point of nose, about two foot wide) of some fiberglass like material and the rest was steel. The fiberglass was attached to the steel with rivets (I believe it was rivets...mine are all gone now). With time, weather, wear and tear, etc...the fiberglass wears out and the holes where the rivets are split, crack, etc. Eventually, there is no connection between the two and no caulk, glue, tape, etc will fix the problem.

Mandi/Abby, my 98 featherlite was built the same way.  The rivets are still there but I need to remove them and replace the calk so I can hopefully stop the leaking.  Featherlite said I  need to remove the fiberglass, clean the old stuff off, apply new sealant and then re-rivit (or bolt as I think I may do) the fiberglass back on.

 They also overlapped the walls over the roof so when water runs off the roof it runs down the inside of the wall where the caulk has dried out. I've been working on replacing the calk and it is a pain to get the old stuff out of that gap.

Anyone know how to repair a hole in fiberglass?  I don't have a hole yet but I have a really thin spot (you can see light through it) that will probally be a hole in a few years.

Yeah, there is apparently no hope for my trailer though. All the holes ripped out (we bought it used and didn't check that over...oops) and there's really nothing stable to connect the fiberglass to the metal with.

Did the holes rip out of the metal or fiberglass?  Either way, unless the damage is really bad, you should be able to drill new holes and just fill the old ones so they don't leak.

You should talk to a metal fabricator.   They could probally make you a new "nose" and weld it in place.  I'm taking my trailer in for a estimate on that and a hay rack.  I'm also going to ask him about welding the wall/roof seam to try for a permanent fix on that instead of having to recalk it.

We've been planning on having a new section fabricated since a friend owns a machine shop, but we just haven't gotten around to it...especially since I have the new Elite, aluminum trailer to pull instead. We're just hanging on to the 4H until we have something else besides just the 3H to pull...just in case.

Terri

Once you have the fiberglass nose removed, and that is the best way to repair it, it is a simple matter to add new fiberglass materials to the old, and reinforce the edge and any other reinforcement areas as necessary. To replace that cap in metal at a fab shop will cost a great deal of money, and it may not fit properly.

Once the fiberglass is repaired it should be painted; fiberglass resin is degraded and weakened by UV light. The cap can be reinstalled by using stainless fasteners and the new types of boat caulking. Done right it would last a lifetime, look like new, and not cost much to repair.

Be careful when attempting to weld on the roof. It is important that the area underneath the welded area does not have any interior installed, as it will be burnt during the repair.

BOL Gard

Hi Gard,

You are far more articulate than some of the english professors I had in university! I also appreciate the way you way you explain things without making the person who asked the question feel stupid. With regards to your comment about horsey getting "ripped off", I don't see how that could be construed as offensive to anyone. There is nothing wrong with calling a spade a spade!

Regards,

Jodie

     Thanks gard.  Where do you buy a fiberglass patch/materials?  There is nothing under the roof, it's just a bare dressing room.  I'd like to fix it up but there's no point until the leaks are repaired.  I just have to wait until its warm enough for me to stand being outside in the wind to do the fiberglass part.  The welding can be done at anytime since I'm not the one that is going to be in the cold!! 

     The welder I talked to before we left TX said to keep the roof from warping from the heat he would have to do a few inches (+-4) at a time and then move down a foot or so and just keep repeating that until the whole seam was done.  I wanted to have him do it then but moving killed my "trailer improvement" budget.

 Terri

Are you planning on doing the repairs yourself or have someone do it for you? Do you have a marina near by to purchase materials? If no dealers are local to you, I can send you some addresses to use for mail order products.

You will need some basic power tools and know how to use them. The materials are smelly and messy and a little dangerous if you don't take precautions. This type of repair is not rocket science and is within the realm of a DIYer.

You will need dry 60 + degree weather. As I said it would be best if the cap were removed prior to the repairs. This should be easily accomplished by drilling off the existing rivet heads, gently prying the surfaces apart and lift the cap off. It would be easier with two people. Three or four saw horses will support it as you work.

It would be a good Spring project.

Gard