Have any of you changed out your trailer lights for LED models?

Is it very difficult,or,pretty easy to do? We are thinking of trying this on our trailers.

I went to the One Source truck parts store to get a replacement LED red marker light...... The LED was $14.00... A incandesent light is $4.00. Both will plug into the same fixture. They didn't have the LED, so the trailer is now sporting one "old timey" red marker light on the right rear and it actually looks as bright if not brighter than the two diode, LED light.

CRG

I just punched in "LED TRAILER LIGHTS" in EBay and found 1500 postings. Maybe some time spent searching there, would get you what you need at a better price.

HTB has this issue pretty well scoped out. He may be able to help when he checks in.

 well,we don't exactly know what we're doing or how to go about replacing them.That's why I made the thread.Finding them won't be a problem,it will be installing them without dragging it to someone that is going to charge an arm and a leg to do so.

I've forgotten: who is HTB?

Changing the lights is easy. They either have a plug or a wire that has to be connected to your trailer wiring. It's a definite DIY project.

HTB is Hogtownboss, the expert on everything with trucks and diesels

It is a 2000 4 Star.

So,there's no particular difference in the wiring if the bases have to be replaced? Just wire up the same way?

My husband ought to be on here asking these things! But,I"m asking too,I'd like to be able to do some of them myself.

Thanks for the help!

When changing the trailer running lights, there are basically two styles of electrical hook ups: one will have a trailer plug, into which the new light is inserted. Both the hot wire and ground are furnished trough the plug. The second type has a single feed wire which is spliced to the trailer's hot wire. The light fixture itself, is grounded through its base to the shell of the trailer.

To change them depends on their construction. The type described as "plug and play" simply involves removing the two screws holding the light to the trailer, changing the plug to the new assembly, caulking the base, and screwing the new light to the trailer. A time saving test is turning on your trailer lights before you physically attach the new light. If it's bad and doesn't light, you'll find out before its reinstalled and covered in caulking.

The second type takes a little more time, but is also not difficult to change. The base may be pop riveted to the trailer. A 1/8" drill bit will remove the rivet heads and the light can then be removed. You will usually have one wire going to the fixture; cut it inside the light to keep as long a piece of the trailer's original wiring as possible.

You will need a combination tool that strips wires and crimps as well. This is a common automotive tool that is sold in hardware, auto and big box stores. There are two types of quality and pricing. One is ~$8, that other ~$15+. Buy the least expensive, unless you plan on doing this type of work for a living. You will also need some butt splices, red if your wiring is 16 AWG, blue if it is 12 or 14 awg.

Strip about 1/2" of insulation off the trailer's wire, and crimp on the butt splice. Pull on the crimped splice to make sure it is properly affixed. It should not come off in your hand. The new light will also have a wire that is too long; cut it to length and strip this as well. Again using the crimping part of the tool, crimp the new wire into the butt splice, and test for its security.

Instead of using pop rivets to attach the new light, you can use #8 pan/flat head SS sheet metal screws. The original pop rivet holes may now be too large to securely hold with new rivets. The screws will hold well and afford a good electrical connection. The light base is probably aluminum, the screws are stainless, so using an antioxidant such as Penatrox or Ox gard under the screw heads before the screws are tightened, will ensure a longer lasting electrical connection. This is available in little 4 oz tubes for a couple of dollars, at the same store from which you bought the crimpers

Whenever any light is changed, it is wise to caulk underneath the assembly to prevent rain from creeping into the wiring holes. Many wet LQ wardrobe cabinets are the result of his problem. Some people used the clay based Mortite string weather stripping, I prefer marine polyurethane sealant.

This all sounds complicated. It takes as long to gather the tools and set up the ladder as it does to effect the repair. Once you have changed a light and have a system, the rest only take a few minutes each. Why pay someone $50 -$100 an hour to do what you can?

BOL Gard

On a 2000 4 Star, your tail lights are the oval in a grommet. Those you will simply pop the light out of the grommet, unplug the cable on the back side of the light, and plug it into the new light. Should be no issues there.

Your marker lights will be held on by 4 stainless steel phillips head screws. Two screws will go through the outer cover. Remove them and then pop the cover loose. You will expose the base at this point. In the base will be two more screws. Remove those and pull your base loose and you will see the wire from the base will run through a small grommet in the trailer. There is a soldered and taped connection inside the trailer. Most people will not mess with that, and will cut the wire on the outside of the trailer. 

Keep in mind when you get new LED lights of the size of the light that was there before. You have 4 holes to cover. There is an LED out there that will cover and use the two outer holes. Can't remember the brand of light or where I got them. Don't have that trailer anymore to look.

I'll do some searching online and see if I can find that same type again.

Thanks everyone,for all the detailed instructions and help.Will give it a go.

The reason I think Don paid that guy $30 a light was: the trailer was already there having the wheel bearings and brakes checked out since we just got it,and,he told him he wanted 4 LED's on the back,easier to pay the guy,I guess,than to figure out how to do it in the time that Don has (DOESN'T) to do things.Plus,every time we undertake anything,from the easiest to the hardest thing,it always turns into a struggle,nothing ever hardly turns out easy or the way we think it will around this place.

I prefer marine polyurethane sealant.Gard,where can I find that,automotive,or Lowe's? Is it in a gallon can,or,can I get a small amount? Thanks.

You can get it at Lowes in standard caulking tubes. If they don't have the marine, any house hold name brand, polyurethane will also do well.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-lights-thin-lites-light-bulbs-1.htm