OK, it looks like I need help keeping my LQ trailer in good working order.  I read the thread about checking the batteries every month and, of course, I hadn't been doing that. 

So, I've decided to create a checklist of what to do and check on the trailer and I think I'll divide it into "by use,"  "by week,"  "by month," "yearly," and "other."  For example, I'll put check water in batteries under "by month," and consider muriatic acid wash of floor under "by year" and so forth.  I'll have unplug trailer under "by use."  Yes, I made that mistake - once! 

What I want is your input so that I don't forget anything.  Once I compile it all, I'll post it (and I can then decide if keeping a LQ trailer is going to be too much for me to do!  So, start sending your suggestions and I'll get this together.  Thanks!

Here's one of my favorite sites... http://www.kbrhorse.net/ and of course, Neva & Tom Scheve's "Guide to Buying, Maintaining, & Servicing your Horse Trailer" and Cherry Hill's "Guide to trailering your Horse" (Many tips on what to check, how often, how to service, etc.)

I think that was where I copied some check lists from. It was VERY helpful. The originator says to actually write down what the necessary levels, guages, and tire pressures are, ON the list. That way, you can hand the list to someone else and they don't have to ask what the values are.

Oh, before I forget. I have a "finger checklist" I use for hooking and unhooking the trailer. In no particular order: Tailgate, electrical, safety chain 1, safety chain 2, emergency brake, latch / unlatch coupler. (6 items) and... My trailer guy forgot the electrical ... so mine is 4 inches shorter than it should be; and one time... grrr... I closed the tailgate so that I could fix something (when unhooking) and .... pulled the GN trailer out the back with the tailgate. Not pretty. But... Ford tailgates come off easily (even this old woman was able to unhook the latches/ cables and lower it to the ground).

Okay. I agree with Tom-tom about doing much of it after the trip. I use Sweet PDZ in the horse area too and after I pick out the wet/apples, I rake the clean shavings to a loose pile in the center of the trailer - away from the sides.

Break it into Truck / Trailer / Tack / DR-LQ check lists. Start with the truck:

• Fluids under the hood (washer fluid, radiator, oil, trans)
• Tire pressure of 40 psi (or whatever your's is) all 4
• maps (GPS), emergency phone numbers, phone charger
• 4-way wrench & breaker bar, lantern, emergency road signs
• rain jacket
• fire extinguisher

Trailer

• Water tank
• tire pressure of 65 psi (my trailer) all 4
• wheel lug nuts (check 1x a month at least. Trailer Mfg says every trip)
• emergency brake battery
• screens, vents, and windows (all working correctly? are they open/close?)
• dividers (lubricate a couple of times a year if they are telescoping) and latches
• Tie ropes
• shavings
• Look UNDER the trailer for anything unusual (take photos when you first get the trailer... : )
• lights (and carry a few spare bulbs and the tools to open covers and replace bulbs if necessary)
• Wheel bearings (if your trailer has serviceable ones)
• for leaf spring trailers - check shackle bolts

DR-LQ

• Propane
• Water tanks
• bedding
• windows, screens, door latches, roof vent
• Heater/ A/C
• lights (and replacement bulbs and tools to access covers)
• Dump tanks & check covers
• Drain hoses

Tack /Horse Equip

• Water bucket(s)
• spare halter and lead, bridle, girth
• saddle, bridle, halter, saddle pad, etc.
• Picket line gear
• Tiki Torches & fluid (These are WONDERFUL for overnight camping. Gives light and the citronella helps with insects.)
• Make your own specific lists

So far as anything/everything in DR-LQ. Use plastic storage containers in the refrig/freezer. Take measurements and take your tape measure to the store. It's much easier to stack some square containers (I use a basket with a handle for carrying) in a chest cooler or refrig and to carry them into/out of the house. I use lots of the clear plastic "shoe boxes" and similar. Protects from dust and critters.  You don't have to put on lids while they are in the fridge. The clear boxes help keep things upright and grouped together.

Sorry I got sort of random here...  But I guess these are things that I check for and check the maintenance of ... 

A few additional maintenance items: check all  5 (five) of the tires on both the truck and trailer. The spares are as important as the tires being used. Inspect your tires for age by locating the dot manufacturers stamp on each tire. Even if the tires look acceptable for wear and sidewall checking, they may be dangerous if they are older than six years.

Lubricate the hitch locking mechanism on the trailer, and the slider on the flip ball mechanisms. Lubricate all the trailer hinges and latches. Check all your external lighting, and the condition of your trailer/truck plugs. Installing dielectric grease on the pins will increase the conductivity and make the physical connection easier.

Check the water in all your batteries regardless if they are maintenance free or not. Check your CO and smoke detectors, replace after five(5) years and replace the batteries every year. Check the dial on your fire extinguisher (s) to see if there is a proper charge within.

Grease the gear box on the jack head at least once a year. If the aluminum stall flooring is not surface coated, pull the mats and flush the flooring with water. Check the aluminum flooring for corrosion, pitting or discolouration, especially on the curb side. Check the anode in your water heater for wear, and replace if necessary.

A checklist marked in weekly, monthly and yearly increments would serve to provide a proper level of maintenance and go a long way to insure longevity, reliability and security.

Gard

Hi Gard-

" Grease the gear box on the jack head at least annually". Does this apply to manual jack's as well? I would think it would since I for some reason feel really stupid at this exact moment for asking the question!!!

Thanks

Gard - can you be more specific on how often to lubricate xyz, and the other things?  I think I'll make a basic maintainence list, kind of like a table of contents and add the more detailed info that the others mentioned in an addendum.  Can you tell I have done this for a living?  lol

And I should have known that there were already written documents out there!  thanks, and keep it coming. 

Here's one - how often to check for mice?  Or replace the sticky tape in the electrical plug for them?  Yes, I read that post and it scared me a little!

The top gearbox needs to be greased, regardless of how it is turned, manually, elec etc. The only stupid question is the one not asked by a know it all.

Gard

Yikes. Yes. what was **I** thinking (obviously, I wasn't)  Thanks!!

Maintenance is dependant on age, usage and environment. Some things need to be done often if the trailer is regularly used, less often if not. Tires, hinges etc will wear longer if the trailer is stored inside and not subject to bad weather. The NE where I live may be tougher on a frame than a southern existence. There are many variables, and few set rules.

Proper regular inspection will go a long way in a maintenance schedule. Anticipating wear in a highly used feature, and lubricating it before it wears, is better than fixing a broken, worn out piece of equipment.

The type of trailer you have, the materials of which it is built and how well it is built, will differentiate your maintenance from another owner. Generally, anything that moves or rubs against something else needs lubrication. Appliances often need attention that non LQ owners don't have to anticipate.

Making check lists based on your ownership and usage, is absolutely the best way to perform maintenance. Once you figure out what you have, and what it needs, you can create a realistic schedule. Most of the items can be checked and repaired with few tools, lubricants, time and expenditure.

My answers are generic, because there are so many variables to consider. With some particulars, we can fabricate a working solution.

Gard

Thanks for all the info so far.  If there are old threads on this forum that I should look at also, pass those on.  I hope to start putting together the list soon.

What type of trailer do you have? LQ? Steel or Al? How often is it used? In what type of conditions is it used and stored? How many miles a year does it travel?

With those answers, we can formulate some ideas for your lists.

Gard

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KCW

I hadn't really thought about all Gard's questions being a part of the formula, but I guess they really are.  Mine is a 4 Star with weekender package and I mostly use it for day use and overnight, no real camping (although I'd like to if someone wants to go!!).  No generator or electric jack, but the jack is on my wish list. 

thanks again - it's looking like it will be my sole responsibility to maintain this thing.  Somehow, maintaining my house and car don't "scare" me the way the trailer does.

Lordy - this takes me back to the days of writing PMCS manuals for Army vehicles... Preventive Maintenance, Checks, and Services.

Had one - the HEMTT (it's been about 20 years so forgive my failing memory). Came in about 8 different configurations and did about 9,999 different things, including being able to winch itself out of a ditch!! 3 axles, 10 wheels, winches, cranes, and all sorts of hydraulic and electrical stuff, in addition to the main engine. I think one version had a generator on it too.

So the PMCS was broken down to the base items on the truck and how frequently they were checked or serviced, then a section for each additional option with the frequency of check and service (including how to actually do the service OR a reference to another manual).

On top of that you had severity of service factors (as in, how often do you use this item or under what "extreme" conditions - sand, cold, water, yada yada) so it had lots of "notes" at each service item.

For instance, my truck (F150 /tow/ 4WD) service recommends dump & clean the transmission fluid every 30,000 when towing. I don't tow THAT much, but since I'm using a half ton - nearly maxed out on tow weight - I use the 30K schedule. Anyone else with a half ton wouldn't need to do that.

Good luck KeepSake. It will seem like quite the task -but a computer makes it MUCH easier than the old days of cutting out pieces of text and gluing them down!! hee hee hee. (or chiseling it into stone)

Your house is much more complex to maintain than your trailer. Take things by groups; lets start with the items that get you down the road. First would be the running gear; tires, wheels and axles. Then we'll do some of the things that move on the outside of the trailer.

Wheel bearings are critical. If you do not have annual brake inspections, whether by mandate or the amount of yearly usage, once the bearings are repacked, it's not out of the ordinary for them to be serviceable in excess of 20k miles. That would be reduced if they are constantly immersed in water and muddy conditions. This figure could be almost doubled by the usage of synthetic grease and Bearing Buddies.

Brakes will last years depending again on your usage and terrain. If you have heavy loads, steep hills or harsh driving techniques, they should be checked annually. If they are good then, and there is a good amount of material left on the shoes, let the next inspection go to two years.

Tires have been discussed many times. Six years is a maximum recommended usage. Their life spans can be reduced by weather checking, rough terrain, constant high speed driving, driving while under inflated, or driving while overloaded. Their life spans vary greatly and they have to be constantly monitored. Tire pressures should be checked each time your trailer is used. Tire pressures should be set at the maximum recommended factory inflation pressure marked on the sidewall. Check and maintain the spare as well.

Whenever a wheel is removed from the brake drum, a lubricant can be applied to the wheel studs before the nuts are reinstalled. This can be a little dab of the wheel bearing grease or a few drops of oil. This will help keep the studs from rusting to the nuts, and a wet torque value is always more accurate than a dry, rusty attempt.

On many of the jack heads is a square removable cap held on with two screws. When this is removed, you will be looking at the top of the gearbox that transitions the horizontal cranking motion to a vertical screw that elongates and shortens the lower leg. This should be lubricated with automotive chassis grease. Apply some to the gears, run the jack a bit and reapply some more grease before closing it up. On the two speed jacks, you will find a few grease fittings on the side gearbox. Two or three pumps of grease on each nipple will do the job. These should be serviced once a year. If you have an adjustable lower leg, lubricate the spring pin with the spray oil.

Your hitches need to be kept free of rust and the mechanisms should be lubricated so that the locks work properly. Again a quick spray oil applied once a month will keep things working properly. Check the spring loaded locking pin on the goose couplers and slide locking plate for proper operation.

All your windows and door hinges should be regularly lubricated. This is as much weather dependent as it is wear and tear. I use synthetic automotive ATF automatic transmission fluid. Hinges need a thin penetrating oil that is weather resistant. There is enough residual in the bottle after pouring it into your vehicle to oil almost everything on the trailer. When your vet completes all the inoculations, ask him for the used syringes. Pour the remaining oil from a bottle into the syringe and it's perfect for oiling hinges. This maybe accomplished a couple of times a year, less if the trailer is shed kept. The latches should be serviced as well. A spray WD 40 or LPS will work well on the overhead stall vents. While you have the spray can in your hand, spray some oil into the key holes of your various locks. Afterwards, insert the key and turn the lock to spread the lubricant.

Sliding windows are lubricated with silicone spray in the tracks. Silicon grease applied sparingly to the weather seals on drop downs and entrance doors will keep the seals supple and prevent them from sticking.

Dielectric grease applied sparingly to the trailer's electrical plug pins, will help prevent corrosion, increase conductivity and ease the application of the mechanical connection.

 These are many of the outside lubricating parts of the trailer. How often they will need to be serviced will depend on its usage, miles per year, and environment.

Gard

I'm bumping this up to the top because I'm finally making the spreadsheet and lists for the truck and trailer and remembered this after my last post asking for info.  I also saw that someone else is looking for the same info.

Thanks Gard and others- lots of good advice.  I'm condensing it and I'll post if for people to see if there is some way to get a Word doc up here?

Anything else to make travel safer and easier - just post it! 

Thanks, KF