Posted 2009-02-21 7:59 PM (#99848) Subject: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert of all Expert...
Location: Arizona
Surely I'm not the only one who has lost the crank arm/handle for their goosneck trailer jack. I have tried a pretty extensive web search and not had any luck in finding a replacement. It is for a hexagonal (six-sided) socket-type connection.
Any ideas on a source? If no luck this weekend, I will try the manufacturer and see if they can get me one before I lose the one I've borrowed from my trailer for sale.
Posted 2009-02-24 7:09 AM (#100034 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Location: Central Arkansas
Beware of using the drill on the jack. One of my riding buddies did that and it broke her wrist when it reached the end. It worked great but as soon as it hit the end, the torque just snapped the wrist. So,with that in mind, if you try the drill, be sure to stop it early. She was using a 24V cordless that she had bought from Lowes just for her jack.
Posted 2009-02-24 8:07 AM (#100038 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Elite Veteran
Posts: 795 Location: Tenn/Ala.
Roan, Just give us a call at 931-685-4040. Our Parts Mgr. (Roger@SelectTrailer.com) can get you jacking up & down in short order. UPS does wonders this early in the week! BTW- Those handles are typically fabricated by the trailer mfg., not the jack company. We have Exiss & Kiefer Built. Both have removable handles and both are different.
RTSmith
www.SelectTrailer.com
Posted 2009-02-24 8:13 AM (#100041 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert
Posts: 3802 Location: Rocky Mount N.C.
Quote...RTSmith Both have removable handles and both are different.
That sure doesn't make it any easier on the thieves... Go out to steal a trailer, he best have in mind what make he wants to steal.... Got to know what equipment to take with him to do the job!! Ever tried to crank one of those up and down with a four way lug wrench!!??
Posted 2009-02-24 9:03 AM (#100048 - in reply to #100034) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Originally written by brushycreekranch on 2009-02-24 8:09 AM
Beware of using the drill on the jack. One of my riding buddies did that and it broke her wrist when it reached the end.. She was using a 24V cordless that she had bought from Lowes just for her jack.
We had a guy in our club do the same thing with a half inch corded drill, one of the larger ones with short pipe handles. When he hit the stop, the high torque wrapped his wrists around the handles.
What would happen if you did use a battery powered drill and preset the torque clutch adjustment to a manageable force? One that couldn't hurt you? Has anyone done this?
The problems seem to arise when the jack reaches its limits. If the operator were more aware of the actual positioning of the jack's foot, he could anticipate when the travel limits were being approached. Perhaps a mark could be made on the leg, indicating a safe spot to cease before the mechanical stop engaged.
The idea seems to have merit, but seems too risky without a little more consideration. With all the mechanically inclined forum members we have, perhaps this concept could be studied and made practical.
Posted 2009-02-24 9:04 AM (#100049 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert of all Expert...
Location: Arizona
Thanks everyone. I was able to get ahold of the manufacturer first thing Monday morning and have a replacement headed my way via UPS.
I will say I was surprised that I couldn't find any aftermarket or replacement parts on the web anywhere. A search of trailer & RV parts stores, tractor parts places with online inventories, popular equipment supply places (ex. Northerntool), and by the jack manufacturer all came up empty. Thanks again.
Posted 2009-02-24 10:21 AM (#100057 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 383 Location: Texas
I use a cordless drill to run mine up and down. I'm very careful when nearing the end of the jack's travel although I'm already braced (it's lifting around 8,000 lbs) so it's not going to hurt me, clutch on the drill won't work for me but it might work for others with lighter trailers.
Forgot to add that I had to make the adapter for the drill. 1" id pipe with a piece of 1/2" hex key welded into a nut that was welded inside the pipe. Drilled a hole through the pipe where the pin that connects it to the stub on the jack shaft goes. Fairly easy to do but you need a welder, drill press, and something that cuts with an abrasive wheel.
Posted 2009-02-24 10:58 AM (#100059 - in reply to #100057) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Greyhorse, could you tell me where you sourced the hex bar stock? I would need two different diameters, one for the drill's chuck, the other for the trailer jack shaft which is larger. (haven't measured it). I have two trailers with different handles. One is apparently like yours, the second uses a hex insert. I would have to make two adapters, using the same ends into the drill, but different for the trailers.
One trailer has a single speed gearbox with 5500K# empty weight, the other a two speed gearbox and an empty weight of about 9500 K# empty. I was assuming that it would take a corded drill to provide the necessary torque. May I ask what voltage your drill is? Is it a multiple speed drill?
I greatly appreciate any ideas and insight you could offer. Thank you.
Posted 2009-02-24 11:10 AM (#100062 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Elite Veteran
Posts: 795 Location: Tenn/Ala.
Retento- I think you might be hitting the point. The removable handle is also often used to keep "friends" from borrowing the new trailer! On many smaller units, it can serve as a lug wrench also. Many times, it is simply a 13/13" socket welded to a regular jack handle. When one buys a new jack, it typically comes with the handle. The connecting pipe is sourced locally by the trailer mfg.
Posted 2009-02-25 10:15 PM (#100178 - in reply to #100059) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 383 Location: Texas
Gard, for the drill chuck I used a 1/2" hex key (allen wrench) for the stock. It's tool steel so you need to cut it with an abrasive wheel..... hack saw wouldn't touch it and the blade on my metal cutting bandsaw is too expensive to try something like that with. From the sound of your post I'm guessing you understood what I did for the round jack shaft on the trailer. For the one that uses a hex insert I would assume you could use a bolt with the appropriate size head on it to go in the insert (I've never seen that type of jack). The only way I can think to connect a bolt to the hex part going into the drill is with a sleeve of some sort with both welded into opposite ends of it.
I use a Milwaukee 18V hammer drill (the hammer drill was cheaper than the regular drill is the only reason I got it) with it on just plain drill mode, not hammer. At low speed it's supposed to make 550 in lbs. of torque. Plenty of power but I have to watch out about lifting the trailer at full speed or the "smart" batteries cut off because I'm pulling too much power too quick..... it's really not a problem once you figure that out. My jacks on my big trailer are two speed Hollands.... low is very slow. The pin weight of the trailer empty is 6,000 lbs. Loaded.... a guess is between 8-9,000 because I haven't weighed it loaded.
Feel free to ask anything else, I'm normally pretty good at "engineering" stuff like that.
Posted 2009-02-26 9:07 AM (#100195 - in reply to #100178) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Greyhorse,
Thank you for sharing your experiences. I had assumed that a higher voltage drill would be necessary, producing more than 550 in/lbs. I've never put a torque wrench on the jack to see how much effort is needed. Of course the older I get, the less torque I'm able to produce, so things look more and more formidable now.
Yes, I do understand your clever "socket" you used on the end of the trailer shaft. I was considering using a deep well impact socket, with a half inch drive extension cut off to insert into the chuck. The hex shaft would be easier to chuck up in the drill. This will work for my Sidekick. My Exiss has a female socket at the end of the jack shaft, in which a 3/4" hex bar stock welded to the jack handle is inserted. Your idea of a common bolt is excellent. I can use a grade 8 and if it works, replace it later with a fabricated adapter of bar stock to increase the surface area.
I have yet to find a supplier of 1/2" and 3/4" hex bar stock. I have a few tools to cut the steel, air and electric, so that's not a problem.
Again I appreciate your help. You and others have so much to offer. This forum is a plethora of ideas.
Posted 2009-02-26 10:09 AM (#100198 - in reply to #100195) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 383 Location: Texas
You might be able to find a hex wrench that is 3/4"..... I think I've seen them. Might check the bins of old tools at pawn shops. If you use the bolt, grade 8 doesn't weld very well, but neither does tool steel for that matter.
Had another thought for the 3/4", Some of the crow bar/ pry bars are six sided now.
Posted 2009-02-27 8:48 AM (#100282 - in reply to #99848) Subject: RE: Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Thank you all for your great ideas and sources. With this information it shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate the adaptors I need. Thanks again for your advice.
Gooseneck jack crank arm replacement
