Posted 2005-05-29 11:00 PM (#25816) Subject: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Member
Posts: 6
Location: tehachapi, ca
Hi,
I am looking to get the reese strait line system for my circle j 3h. In all the pictures of the product I see the brackets for the chains go over an open frame, but I have a plate welded over my v-tongue. Is it still possible to attach this system?
Posted 2005-05-30 8:18 AM (#25820 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Expert
Posts: 2689
If the plate is WELDED over you'll need to cut (or have cut) a slot that is wide enough to take the bracket, it will also need to be spaced in from the edge the width of the bracket. An abrasive cut off wheel in a die grinder, or similar tool will do it. If the plate is rivetted on you might be better off to drill the rivets out to remove it, install everything, do road tests/adjustments and THEN figure where the slots need to be - or you might want to discard the plate.
Just be sure you have enough frame rail length to accomodate both the chain brackets and the anti sway brackets. I think it is 16 inches, but I can get a more accurate measurement for you if you need it.
Posted 2005-05-30 9:39 AM (#25827 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Expert
Posts: 1416 Location: sc
i realize this is not what you asked, but have you looked at the "equal-i-zer" brand hitch? ive been using one for about 6 months, theyre pretty popular amongst the rv'ers. i looked at the reese system, "equal-i-zer" won out due to ease of installation, ease of use, cost and no one had anything bad to say....unless compared to a hensley or pullrite. i pull a 2h slant w/dress with a 02 chevy trailblazer, havent had so much as a wiggle.
Posted 2005-05-30 6:07 PM (#25847 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Member
Posts: 6
Location: tehachapi, ca
I have attached a jpg showing some dimensions of my trailer v tongue area, will I have enough room to attach the reese system?
I did look at some others but they were all more expensive than this system...at least the vendors I could find. I found the reese system for 359 and the whatchamacallit that the ballmount attaches too for 79. the cheapest I could find the other setup mentioned was for 499
Posted 2005-05-30 6:12 PM (#25848 - in reply to #25820) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Member
Posts: 6
Location: tehachapi, ca
sorry I should have replied to you rather than the thread. I posted a pic in the thread of my setup. If you could please take a look at my drawing and see if it will work? Thanks!
and may i enquire where you found the reese straight line(this is also known as the "dual cam", are we talking about the same system?)for that price? the best i could do with the WD shank and shipping was about $600.
try this site, it has the installation instrucitons for the reese system, about 1/3 down the page, click on instructions.
Posted 2005-05-31 12:40 PM (#25894 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Member
Posts: 6
Location: tehachapi, ca
Maybe I should go with the equilizer. Here is my setup: dodge 2500 hemi pulling a 3h slant with tack room (3300lbs). When fully loaded it will be at around 6600lbs. How do I know which tongue weight set to get, and will performance vary if I am only carrying one horse? My gut says to get the 1000/10000 setup. Is this what I want? I should have broken down and gotten a gooseneck, but I didn't want to drill holes in my precious truck
Posted 2005-05-31 5:24 PM (#25903 - in reply to #25894) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Expert
Posts: 2689
I'd go with the 1000/10000 set-up, though I think mine is 1200/12000.
You don't have to (and SHOULDN'T) pull up the bars as far as you can, just enough to level the truck out.
I'm not closing my eyes to new and different brands and products, but Reese has been there a while.
Posted 2005-05-31 6:05 PM (#25907 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Expert
Posts: 1416 Location: sc
yep thats the same one, and it looks like a touch over $500 with the WD shank and shipping, that is a pretty good price.
as for which one to go with, search the rv forums and then decide for yourself. just type in "equal-i-zer forums" or "reese dual cam forums" into yahoo and let it ride.
the 1000 would probably be the best bet. my 2h slant w/dress is about 5900 loaded with a tongue just over 700. as for the horse/no horse, ive set my hitch to where the truck has the same squat at both axles when empty and when fully loaded the fender at the rear axles is down about an inch, the reciever might be down 2 inches and there is no rise over the front axle. i could tighten it when i get loaded but even as particular as i am i can not tell any difference driving the rig.
i suspect with you 2500 youll notice the sway control more than anything, i wouldnt sweat the loaded/empty adjustment part. my pitiful little medium sized suv really needed the help getting the rear bumper of the ground.
i cant speak for the dual cam but the sway control on the eq really impressed me, the first time i took it out (w/o the horses of course, they hate test rides) and started slinging it around on a back road i could actually see the trailer moving back and forth on the tires but not coming out of line with the suv (mind you this was a somewhat short test ride, my wife eventually let go of the dash long enough to slap me). bear in mind this is with a mid size suv and a 3600# empty trailer.
Posted 2005-05-31 7:56 PM (#25911 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 333
One hint, maybe good maybe bad, but putting on the chains for the WD part is really hard, esp if you have to "lift" up the back of the truck quite a ways. I inadvertantly found an easy way to get the bars on/off without taking out my knee, esp taking them off, they can really pop.
I put the hitch on the ball, then use the trailer jack to jack up the the hitched trailer (this makes sure the ball/hitch is tight and working) then, with the trailer/truck a bit higher than if you just dropped the trailer on the ball and tried to put on the chains, it is simpler (since the truck is about the level it would be with the chains jacked up on it.). I don't have to worry about really straining to get the chains where they are supposed to be, nor do I have any issues taking them off, which that pipe could take out a knee or shin.
Remember then, to unjack the rig and take off the "foot"!!!! You probably won't as you will be hooking up the chains/etc... but make it part of your "hitch up routine" if you do it this way.
Posted 2005-05-31 9:34 PM (#25916 - in reply to #25816) Subject: RE: reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
Expert
Posts: 1416 Location: sc
thats the way the equal-i-zer works to start with. you can use the tool to pop the bars on the brackets, but why bother its only a few more turns on the trailer jack and you can just push them on. and you have to jack it up to pull them off when you unhitch.
ive also seen a guy put those ramps you might use to change your oil under the rear wheels of a dually, then back up onto it. he just hooked the chains and drove right back down. that looked like more work than it saved though.
reese strait line anti sway and wd question?
