Hi All,

My new (to me.. it's an '07) Hart 2 horse slant bumper pull has a jack that doesn't wind all the way up.. stopping I'd say 6-8" down.. When I first pulled it home, it dragged, so had someone flip my hitch over (@ 3-4" drop/lift) so that I could get it home..Didn't think too much of it at first.. thought flipping over my hitch and ball would be enough.. I realized that it wouldn't when I went to get hay a month or so ago.. drug the jack again when backing into my driveway to unload the hay.  This newer trailer is apparently a bit nose heavy.. Plus my front tack is crammed with all my stuff.. portable corral, (empty) corner water tank, etc.  My husb says I need new springs and shocks on my SUV..Which is fine.. I can and will do that, but I say the jack should retract all the way up.. I can buy a new hitch with a deeper drop/higher lift, but that's just a bandaid.. I haven't yet even loaded the horses in it.. It's too blasted hot to go anywhere or do anything with them yet.. What will it do when I'm heading out for a 1-2 day trip and fill my water tank?.......any ideas on a solution without relacing the jack? How hard/expensive is this?

If you take off the wheel or pad, whichever it has, it should go up flush with the bottom of the trailer on a Hart.

Is it hard to crank right before it gets to where it stops? Sounds like the jack may be bent. Tractor Supply carries the jacks and they are fairly inexpensive. Put the trailer on jack stands, take the weight off the jack, remove three bolts, and the jack lifts straight out. Put the new one in, put three bolts back in and tighten down. You should be good to go.

When was the last time the jack gearbox was lubricated?

You might consider Timbrens or air shocks instead of standard shocks and springs. You probably don't want to adversely effect your original ride.

gard

The top crank jack on our bumper pull failed and had to be replaced. Even though it was welded on instead of bolted, it was an easy replacement. The welder cut the three sides, dropped the wheel and lifted it out. The nose of the trailer didn't even have to be supported while it was being changed. The flanges on the new one were the same size and fit perfectly.

Quite inexpensively, I upgraded the weight capacity of the jack when I bought the replacement. For about ~$10- $15 more, I was able to purchase a jack of almost double the original capacity. It also had an external Zerk fitting for the gearbox lubrication, which the original didn't. It worked easily and well for the next three years when we sold the trailer.

The bolt on type will be even easier to exchange. Here are some examples:

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=195

Gard

Are you removing the foot from the jack and it still doesn't recess all the way?

it doesn't even have a foot or wheel.. just the bare post

We had an 18' steel stock/combo BP that had an original jack of about 1500# capacity. When it failed, I had installed a new one of 3000# capacity. It only cost a few dollars more than the original size, and never gave a bit of problem there after.

Gard