I am trailer shopping and will be pulling with a 2009 Chevrolet Tahoe LT2 (5.2L V8) 4WD with Heavy Duty Tow Package (includes wt. distributing hitch, integrated brake control, bigger engine/transmission cooler, tow/haul mode, etc.) and the Z71 Off Road Pkg (includes locking rear differential, 18 in. on/off road tires, 3.78 rear axle ratio (I think?)). 116 in. wheelbase (79 in. width), curb wt 5524 lbs, tow capacity 8400 lbs (dead wt.), max tongue wt. 1000 lbs (according to the label on the hitch). It also has some type of auto suspension leveling system?

I am looking at two types of 2 horse trailers with dressing rooms, one is about 14-15 ft. floor length (16-17 ft total length with hitch), all aluminum, weighs about 2500-2700 lbs. empty. Second trailer is 16 ft floor length (18-19 ft. total), aluminum skin over galvanized steel, weighs about 3700 lbs. empty. I would be hauling mostly one average sized horse (about 1100-1200 lbs), but sometimes two, which would be about 2400 lbs of horses max. and with some gear (maybe 200 lbs tops).  Mostly local, but sometimes longer Interstate travel.  I plan to get an equilizer hitch if necessary.

My question is, should I be concerned that the length and weight of the heavier trailer option considering the wheelbase/tow capacity of my tow vehicle?  Would the heavier/longer trailer be a little to close to the limits of my towing vehicle and maybe a little less stable to tow, even with the equilizer hitch?   

Would really appreciate you thoughts! Thanks!

For a couple of years we pulled an 18' three horse steel stock/combo that weighed aprox~ 3300# with a Ford Expedition with a 5.4 litre motor. It did well on most trips, kicked out of OD on most of the hills, and was a comfortable ride. We rarely carried three horses, two was the most common loading, the third stall was for stuff.

Some three horse BP trailers can be better balanced than a two horse, with the result of less hitch loading. A longer wheel base trailer will give you better towing stability and less pitching over bumps. A three horse trailer is widely available, doesn't weigh much more than a similar two horse, and will give you a great deal of storage capability.

The trailer's material choice will depend on your budget and local availability.

  Where are you located in Virginia? Eastern Shore, northern Va. I-81 corridor, Va. Mountains, N.C., Tn., Ky. border? This may make a difference in what you may want to pull or better yet... Try to stop! If your Tahoe has the 320 hp 5.3 and the 6 speed auto, then you may have the 3.42 rear axle ratio, not real sure if the 3.73 is still available even with the Z71 package. 3.08 is standard.

I would go for the lighter, all aluminum trailer.

Thanks for the replies so far.  I really wish I could do a 'test drive' with the trailers to see how they pull. I am in No. Va. and would mostly tow locally, but have horse friends down near Roanoke that trail ride and would also consider a few shows at the Horse Center in Lexington, so a few trips down the I-81 corridor are possible....for those of you who know I-81 (hills and trucks), this is why I want something as stable as possible and not overly heavy for the tow vehicle.  

Although I am not set on a specific trailer or brand yet, this was the size range of trailers I liked.  The all aluminum was a Shadow and the steel/aluminum was a Hawk.  I am considering both straight loads and slant.  For those of you who trailer one horse in a 3 horse slant, which stall do you put the horse in?  If it is a bigger horse, would you take out the front divider (near the dressing room) and load the horse in the front 'double' slant stall?  If so, how does this pull as it seems the horse is a little in front of the axles?  I ask because I have consider this possibility, but don't know how or if it would effect the stability of the trailer? 

If you use a straight load trailer, you cannot alter the loading of the trailer. The horses are placed within a stall in a fixed area. Many straight load trailers have their axles more towards the rear of the trailer, and when the horses are loaded, there will always be a given tongue weight. A loaded straight load trailer will often have a higher tongue weight, than a balanced slant load trailer. Many slant load trailers will often have their axles placed more forward, nearer to the center of gravity.

With a slant load trailer, particularly a three horse, you can move the horses about, varying the loading as you wish or need. Generally, one horse will be carried over the axles; in a three horse this would usually be the center stall. A single horse can be carried in the front, but this will greatly increase your hitch weight.

The stall sizes will vary from brand to brand. In a slant load trailer, the interior width will have an effect on the lengths of the stalls. This is also variable by the divider angles and stall widths. If you have an large warm blood sized horse, you can specify the stall sizes when the trailer is built. With a CAD program, a manufacturer can pre determine the stall sizes, depending on the trailer widths and floor lengths.

There are many excellent brands of used all aluminum BP trailers for sale, in both slant and straight load configurations. I would consider one of these first, before the purchase of a new, lesser quality product.

Gard

Thanks Gard, that is really good info!  I like the versatility of a slant load, especially the 3 horse.  My concern is that the stall size may be tight for my 16.1 'giraffe' and the overall trailer size/length too much for my 'wheelbase challenged' Tahoe? 

Our Expedition had a wheelbase of 119", about ~230 HP and a 3.55 limited slip rear axle. Our combo trailer was 18' long and had a 4' dressing area. We have two large horses that easily fit the slant stalls, but the height was a little low at 7' high. The trailer towed very well, and we never had to use any specialized weight distribution devices. Most of our travels include open highway speeds of up to 70 mph.

Your Tahoe, I believe, has a wheel base of 116". Pulling a longer, but not heavier trailer, will not add to instability. In fact a longer trailer will pitch less than a shorter one. As I said, stall measurements will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Take a tape measure with you and measure the widths and diagonals of the stalls. You will then know if it is compatible.

Some of the comments you will read about a particular brand of trailer pulling better than another, can be attributed to the tires. Some brands were fitted with bias ply tires instead of radials. Now days the radials are almost a standard. You will have a noticeably higher rolling resistance while using the bias ply tires. Changing the tires will improve the way the trailer handles and pulls.

Many of the newer BP trailers have aerodynamic fronts, that reduce the wind drag. I've never pulled one, so I can't comment on how it feels when it is being towed. On a GN trailer, the nose shapes will effect the way the trailer handles in a wind, and the mileage you will achieve. Most GN trailers pull rock solid, but there is a variance in the amount of wind drag.

If you could borrow a trailer, or go to a dealer and hook one to your vehicle, then you would know what it feels like and what to expect, when you get your own trailer. Everyone has a different idea about what he feels is the best experience. Only you can decide what is best for you.

Not sure if this will help or not as our Yukon is much older than your new one (it's a 97) but we haul a 2 horse straight load with dressing room 2007 Trail-et New Yorker with absolutely no problem.   (The Trail-et is almost identical to the Hawk).    It's very stable & hauls / stops very well.   My hubby has been hauling horses for 30 yrs & is also a prof. truck driver.  He absolutely loves how this trailer hauls.

Thanks THJ,

Do you use any type of weight distributing hitch?