Posted 2006-06-27 9:42 AM (#43697) Subject: Switching to a gooseneck
Regular
Posts: 57 Location: Red Wing, MN
I'm thinking about buying a different trailer - a small gooseneck instead of a bumper pull. But I've never driven a gooseneck before. Is driving a gooseneck completely different than a bumper pull? When looking at trailers, should I look for anything particular on the gooseneck & "jack"? And I have what might be a stupid question... but I'm a 100# female - does it take a lot of physical strength to hook and unhook a gooseneck? I have a 2005 F-150 that is setup to pull 9600#. I'm looking at trailers that are around 4000 lbs and the two horses weigh less than 1600 lbs together (Arab & POA).thank you!
Posted 2006-06-27 9:54 AM (#43699 - in reply to #43697) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Regular
Posts: 57 Location: Red Wing, MN
I forgot to add... the 2005 F150 is the first year with the deeper box - which means it's higher than the other trucks - do I need to be concerned with clearance with a gooseneck or do all gooseneck traielrs sit at a "standard" height?
Posted 2006-06-27 9:57 AM (#43700 - in reply to #43697) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560 Location: Mena, AR
Hi ArabHorseLover,
Since you'll be looking for a small gooseneck, you won't find the change to a gooseneck to big. Backing (it's easier) and going around corners (wider turns), but it is very easy to adjust too. I switch between pulling a gooseneck and a BP all the time w/ no problems. If you get a two speed jack, you should be fine, but an electric jack on a small GN would be really nice. They add $600 - $1000 to the price of the trailer. I have a friend who pulls a Trails West 2 horse GN w/ her 2005 F-150 with no problem. She hauls a TNW & a mini-donkey. She does not have an electric jack on her trailer, and has no problem hooking it up. You'll just need to be careful selecting your trailer so you don't end up w/ too much weight.
Posted 2006-06-27 10:12 AM (#43702 - in reply to #43699) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560 Location: Mena, AR
Originally written by ArabHorseLover on 2006-06-27 9:54 AM
I forgot to add... the 2005 F150 is the first year with the deeper box - which means it's higher than the other trucks - do I need to be concerned with clearance with a gooseneck or do all gooseneck traielrs sit at a "standard" height?
My friend also has the deeper box on her Ford F-150. It happens that the Trails West that she has fits just fine, but I would take some measurements before you buy, or better yet, hook up to make sure you have at least 6 inch clearance between the bed rail & nose of the trailer. You want your trailer to be as level as possible when hooked to your truck. The height of the GN is adjustable.
Posted 2006-06-27 10:13 AM (#43703 - in reply to #43697) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Veteran
Posts: 247 Location: La Crosse, WI - God's Country
If your truck has a short bed (especially if it's got the 4 door super cab with the shortie bed) you'll need to be aware that a full width trailer nose (the part over the bed) could come into contact with the back corners of your cab during tight turns. Some trailers have a tapered nose and this is less of an issue. If you have a long bed truck, you shouldn't have a problem. Most short bed trucks cannot do a 90* back in turn without hitting - in my observations.
Posted 2006-06-27 5:44 PM (#43715 - in reply to #43697) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Regular
Posts: 57 Location: Red Wing, MN
I think I mentioned that I found one I'm really interested in - but it's 150 miles away. I had her meausure the bottom of the gooseneck to the hitch and she said it's 26.5. I measured my truck from the bottom of the bed to the top of the rails and it's 22.5 inches. Is that going to be too close?
Posted 2006-06-27 6:16 PM (#43717 - in reply to #43715) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385 Location: washington
The hitch on my gooseneck is adjustable... I recently bought a 2 horse GN to replace my 3 horse GN. My truck sits higher than the previous owner's truck and so the trailer did not set level when they hooked it up. The guy locked the trailer to the truck, loosened a couple bolts on the trailer hitch, jumped in the bed of the truck a bit to force the truck down a bit, and once it was acceptable, he tightened the bolts back up and away I went. I love pulling a gooseneck. I pulled a bumper pull my whole life until 2 years ago... you'll like it!
Posted 2006-06-27 9:58 PM (#43721 - in reply to #43715) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Expert
Posts: 2828 Location: Southern New Mexico
Ask her if the coupler is adjusted all the way out. It may drop down the last few inches you will need. If not and you really like the trailer, you can get a longer coupler tube. I think they have them on e-trailer.com.
Posted 2006-06-28 10:03 AM (#43738 - in reply to #43715) Subject: RE: Switching to a gooseneck
Member
Posts: 46 Location: Ottawa, ON
Originally written by ArabHorseLover on 2006-06-27 6:44 PM
I think I mentioned that I found one I'm really interested in - but it's 150 miles away. I had her meausure the bottom of the gooseneck to the hitch and she said it's 26.5. I measured my truck from the bottom of the bed to the top of the rails and it's 22.5 inches. Is that going to be too close?
I believe it would be better to measure from the ground to the top of the rails of your truck, and from the ground to the underside of the goose when the trailer is sitting level.
Measuring as you described does not take into account any adjustments that might have to be made to the coupler to get the trailer properly level when it is hitched to your truck.
Switching to a gooseneck
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