Posted 2011-01-20 3:27 PM (#129081) Subject: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
New User
Posts: 4
Location: Blacksburg
Hey Guys-My wife and I just purchased a new 2011 3500 Dually Chevy 4x4, we had spray in bed liner installed and a turnover hitch.We hook up to our Hart Trailer this weekend to go camping and we had a major problem, the trailer is WAY too close to the bed. Maybe 6" clearance. It almost touches the berails coming in and out of my driveway, there is no way it's going to work for our endurance riding, with all the in and out of big fields with ditches and the like.How do we remedy this? I cant raise my gooseneck anymore because my trailer is already a little uphill. Lowering the truck might be an option but it seems the tires will be really close to the fenders if we do, and it's only going to buy us a couple inches. We could raise the axles on the trailer with blocks or a subframe but I really dont like this option.Are we going to be forced to eat the $1k we put into the bed and hitch and just buy a flatbed or hauler bed? I sure hope not, I hope you guys you can suggest something better.
Posted 2011-01-20 3:45 PM (#129082 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Veteran
Posts: 170 Location: Minnesota
I do not believe you can lower the truck. All of the late model HD trucks have high sides on the bed. I took my 4-Star and had 2 1/2" blocks added to the trailer undercarriage. Still need to be careful but has worked for me the past couple of years.
Posted 2011-01-20 8:06 PM (#129088 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by jcook on 2011-01-20 4:27 PM
Hey Guys-My wife and I just purchased a new 2011 3500 Dually Chevy 4x4, we had spray in bed liner installed and a turnover hitch.We hook up to our Hart Trailer this weekend to go camping and we had a major problem, the trailer is WAY too close to the bed. Maybe 6" clearance. It almost touches the berails coming in and out of my driveway, there is no way it's going to work for our endurance riding, with all the in and out of big fields with ditches and the like.How do we remedy this? I cant raise my gooseneck anymore because my trailer is already a little uphill. Lowering the truck might be an option but it seems the tires will be really close to the fenders if we do, and it's only going to buy us a couple inches. We could raise the axles on the trailer with blocks or a subframe but I really dont like this option.Are we going to be forced to eat the $1k we put into the bed and hitch and just buy a flatbed or hauler bed? I sure hope not, I hope you guys you can suggest something better.
Blocking is the only option if you don't want to go the flatbed route... Just out of curiosity what truck did you have before?
Posted 2011-01-21 6:18 AM (#129099 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
New User
Posts: 4
Location: Blacksburg
A 2005 F350 Crew cab short bed SRW, the truck lowered so much when I put the trailer on I could raise my gooseneck no problem. I put the trailer on the dually and the springs never move...maybe 1-2 inches max, the Ford used to sink 7-8 inches it seems
Posted 2011-01-21 6:24 AM (#129100 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 346
I totally agree. I am looking over some 11's myself. My bloomer 33' box is good on a 2wd dodge. Others 2wd and 4wd are same height. I want a 4wd but I probably will go back to the 2wd dodge just for the fact that its lower.
If i could afford to install air ride on the trailer I would and then buy 4wd.
Posted 2011-01-21 6:36 AM (#129102 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379 Location: Missouri
I changed to a flatbed on my previous 1 ton because of clearance issues. Personal opinion here, I wouldn't want to block the axles. The trailer ground clearance would be nice but the added height getting in and out to me out ways it. If you go the flatbed route. Don't settle for the $50-100 salvage price for your pick up bed. Here's what I did, after I got insulted at what the salvage yards and body shops would give me for my box bed. I parted the bed out on EBay and when the dust settled, my flatbed cost me nothing. When you break it down, there are a lot of expensive parts to a pick up bed. Tail lights, bumper, fenders, tow hitch (if you have one) all this goes away with the flatbed. Just food for thought.
Posted 2011-01-21 9:31 AM (#129111 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 342 Location: Ohio
I'm going to be stuck with my 06 Ford for a long while because the newer trucks all sit much higher and have higher bed rails.
I have zero experience with pulling a trailer with blocked axles, but this is the route I would go and probably will end up going on my small run around day trip trailer...I like hauler beds, but are impractical for anything but towing a GN, IMO.
Posted 2011-01-21 9:37 AM (#129112 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Expert
Posts: 2453 Location: Northern Utah
I'd jump on the blocked axles without giving them a second thought. Especially if you frequent the kinds of areas I go off road to attend CTR or endurance events. The extra clearance would be welcome.
For starters, go ahead and raise your gooseneck hitch to the next hole and get some clearance until you decide what to do. I'll bet one extra hole will not significantly tilt your trailer to where you will notice much when driving. You may not even worry about it about a month of towing at the new height. I've done that with my last two trucks. So if I put a level on my trailer floor. Yes it running with a slight up hill slant. But after 5 years, It just has not caused any problems.
Elevating the front of the trailer with a taller truck and with longer gooseneck tube, will lower your trailers back bumper. By blocking the trailer axles, you will just be returning the rear of the trailer to a normal height.
So this is what I would vote for. Raise the GN to the next hole. That will give another 2"-3" of clearance over your bed rails. Try that for a trip or two. See how it tows. Pull the loaded trailer across a scale that will give you individual axles weights and see how much difference in weight each axle is carrying. If it's just a few hundred pounds different. I wouldn't worry about, If you seriously overload the rear, and the front axles is way light, then move to next step which would be blocking the axles to try and level the load, or replacing the bed.
Posted 2011-01-23 6:43 PM (#129179 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Member
Posts: 7
Had a similar problem with 08 GMC Sierra 3500 SRW. Switched from traditional 2 5/16 gooseneck ball coupler to an inverted mini-fifth wheel coupler. The fifth wheel coupler pivots forward and aft only and eliminates all side to side roll just like the 18 wheelers. It keeps your trailer from pivoting to either side and causing damage to the bed rails of your truck. The fifth wheel is welded inverted to the gooseneck tube on the trailer and the removable king pin sits in the bed of my 3500. 90% of the required grease stays on the fifth wheel and out of the truck bed. Mini-fifth wheel is a Holland Brinkley FW 0001, Max Gross Weight 32K, Max Vertical Load 8K. Fifth wheel retails for around $500. 2" Standard SAE king pin retails for around $60.
Posted 2011-01-24 11:18 AM (#129211 - in reply to #129081) Subject: RE: New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
Elite Veteran
Posts: 644 Location: Odenville, Alabama
I guess you'll have to block your trailer. I think someone makes a gooseneck ball extender, but then again you'd be draggin ass with the trailer. Yikes !
New 2011 Chevy 3500 Too Tall? HELP!
