Posted 2007-10-24 11:17 AM (#69906) Subject: s/s nose
Regular
Posts: 78
Location: tn
you guys have been so great so i thought i would ask for more advice. we just got this silver star last week and it has terrible scratches on the stainless steel nose, is there anyway to remove them? the dealer let this trailer sit out in her pasture area and the horses made a snack out of the trailer. also the windows are ched on,anything for those scratches as well? and of course there is some bite marks on the white skin!!! i need help.
Posted 2007-10-24 11:52 AM (#69907 - in reply to #69906) Subject: RE: s/s nose
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA
It depends on the depth of the scratches. If you can catch and feel them with your finger nail, you probobly won't be able to completely remove them by polishing them. There are various polishing compounds, that when used by a power buffer, can clean and remove light scratches in metals, plexiglass, fiberglass, glass, paints etc. This will make the scratches look better, but not completely eliminate them if they are deep.
If the paint is scratched through its coating, you will need some touch up paint from the manufacturer to match you trailer's colour. There are various brands of automobile waxes that are coloured and can help hide small imperfections.
If you are not familiar with power buffing, I would suggest contacting a body shop for assistance. If power tools do not intimidate you, an inexpensive buffer/polisher can be purchased for about the cost of one hour's labour at a body shop. ($50) Buffing materials are readliy available and vary depending on what material is being polished.
This can be a DIY project and actually doesn't take too long to fix.
Posted 2007-10-24 11:57 AM (#69908 - in reply to #69907) Subject: RE: s/s nose
Expert
Posts: 2614
Be careful what type of buffer you chose,and the type of polish that you chose also.You can really scratch up a surface with a buffer used the wrong way and the type of polish also.Body shops use heavy duty buffers and they are experienced with the use of them.I'd use one of the buffers made for the do it yourselfer on automobiles,they are called orbital buffers.However,they can leave swirl marks too,I wouldn't use rubbing compound with one.Maybe a light cleaner that is one of several steps used in auto detailing.
Posted 2007-10-24 12:36 PM (#69915 - in reply to #69906) Subject: RE: s/s nose
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA
A random orbit buffer would help only in applying waxes or glazes to lightly scratched painted or metal surfaces. You need to use various compounds to polish out deep scratches in the metal surfaces and need the aggressive action of a circular foam or wool pad.
The various compounds are what do the polishing, not the buffing pad. By switching compounds you can go from a grinding process to polishing a highly reflective surface. The final compounds and foam pads will remove swirl marks and leave a mirror finish just as used on custom show cars.
Aircraft windows, glass and plexiglass are polished using various buffing materials, to restore the optical qualities lost from errosion. The cost savings of repair over replacement is significant.
A random orbit buffer is generally only used for the application of waxes and their polishing. It is not designed for or used in shops that remove surface materials using commercial polishing compounds. It would only be used after the repairs are made to apply a final protective film.
Posted 2007-10-24 8:16 PM (#69939 - in reply to #69915) Subject: RE: s/s nose
Expert
Posts: 2614
I was speaking strictly from the standpoint of having detailed my own vehicles for years.There was not much work to be done to begin with,so,a random orbital buffer is all that I needed.I did use cleaner,polish,and glaze,then a hand wax job.I still wouldn't use rubbing compound on my horse trailer's white painted surface tho,however scratched or rough it is,unless it was something I was experienced at doing and had done before with good results.That's all I meant.
Posted 2007-10-25 9:13 AM (#69961 - in reply to #69906) Subject: RE: s/s nose
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA
If the paint is scratched through to the primer or metal, no amount of polishing will help. That's why I recommended getting a matching paint from the manufacturer.
Polishing a painted surface is the way body shops restore the gloss to a weathered surface. This process carefully removes the damaged surface exposing the fresh finish underneath. This is also a common practice in the marine industry where the boat's gel coatings are subject to high levels of UV damage.
Posted 2007-10-25 10:15 AM (#69970 - in reply to #69961) Subject: RE: s/s nose
Expert
Posts: 2614
Well gard,I know you sound like you have a lot of experience doing this sort of thing,most of us don't.Sounds to me like you've had experience doing professional auto body restoration or something along these lines.You agree that average people don't need to jerk up a commercial buffer and run out here with some rubbing compound and go to work on their stainless steel trailer nose.Instead of a shiny surface you would have a matt one in a hurry like this.If that's what you want it would be fine.
I will describe a household remedy for stainless steel.It is a "woman" thing but doesn't involve getting up on a ladder with a big buffer and trying to polish out stainless steel that is scratched like she describes it.On stainless steel,on my sinks and on my SS trailer nose,I use baby oil,and buff it to a dry shine with a soft cloth.