Posted 2007-03-18 5:51 AM (#57252) Subject: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Regular
Posts: 76 Location: WI
I am finishing the interior of my trailer. I am basically only going to do the walls, floor and put in cabinets. But I do want to rewire it so that I can turn on the interior lights at night, watch tv, and maybe have a little plug in or 2 to run a toaster or a hair dryer now and then. What exactly do I need to have done to the stock wiring to make this happen? I was thinking about adding the marine battery to it. I do not have nor want a generator and I do not want it running off my truck battery the whole weekend. How are those trailer batteries recharged? Are they set up to recharge off my truck going down the road somehow or will I have to constantly recharge them manually? Can someone please explain this very clearly to me- obviously I know nothing about electrical- and about how much do you think I can expect to pay to have this done?
My other concern is who wires it?I spoke with a dealer and he told me to check with my state laws because it is very touchy with building your own LQ because that makes me my own manufacturer which makes me liable for anything that happens to anyone in that trailer after I sell it no matter what kind of "as is" clause I write up. My dad could probably wire it for me if I tell him what needs to be done, but if it starts on fire in 15 years, will I get sued???
Posted 2007-03-18 11:47 AM (#57266 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Hello Stef... There are two types of electricity. Power from your truck (12 volt DC)and utility power (120 volt AC). Unless you are prepared to spent lots of $$$ you can not run heavy power users like a toaster or hair dyer from batteries. A TV may be possible with an inverter (Converts 12 volt DC to 120 volt ac)
Look at the name plate of the appliances you would like to run. Anything that says more than 200 watts or 2 amps will draw a battery down very quickly through the inverter.
Your local dealer is being overly cautious about liability. (Lawyers are the ban of our society) Anybody can be sued by anyone else. The real question is "what might they get from the effort?"
It is more important to you to do the job correctly. Learn more about it.
Posted 2007-03-19 4:33 PM (#57331 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 383 Location: Texas
You can get a 400W/800W inverter at Harbor Freight for around $20. It's certainly not the greatest but it will run a tv,dvd just fine. I can leave mine on for at least a day without needing to recharge (3 batteries). For batteries most LQ's have a built in converter (charger), I would recommend something that won't overcharge if you install one, like these http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/charge_wizard.html
Posted 2007-03-19 8:25 PM (#57339 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Regular
Posts: 76 Location: WI
How would it work if I would just have outlets installed in the trailer and just have it run off my truck? Would it really run my truck down in a hurry? It seems for the little bit I would use it, that may be much easier for me. Is that feasable or a really bad idea? I have a Dodge 94 Cummins with 2 batteries if that makes any difference???
Posted 2007-03-20 7:32 AM (#57361 - in reply to #57339) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Originally written by stef73433 on 2007-03-19 7:25 PM
How would it work if I would just have outlets installed in the trailer and just have it run off my truck? Would it really run my truck down in a hurry? It seems for the little bit I would use it, that may be much easier for me. Is that feasable or a really bad idea? I have a Dodge 94 Cummins with 2 batteries if that makes any difference???
Your Diesel truck has two batteries because it needs a lot of power to start. Especially when it's cold. Would you rather have blown dry hair or a dead truck?
Posted 2007-03-20 7:47 PM (#57410 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 383 Location: Texas
I would install a battery and cheap inverter, look around on the net for the best price..... probably will be a golf cart battery (a marine deep cycle battery will also do), I'm thinking I've seen them as low as $60 somewhere. Then you can just charge it when you get home and again before you go somewhere with a cheapo battery charger (just be careful not to overcharge or let it stay run down for very long). You can (and should)get it wired to charge from the truck while driving too but that won't put much of a charge on it.
Posted 2007-03-25 4:37 PM (#57756 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Member
Posts: 28 Location: Portage, IN
I jsut thought of this and I think it should work... Possibly a remote starter for your truck. It will leave the doors locked so no one can take it, but it will also provide the hot lead to the batteries as well as the trailer. So when you want to run the blow dryer or toaster, these things shoudl only take 5-20 min, hit the remote start with out leaving your trailer, do the stuff you need to do and then turn the truck off. That way it is power from the truck, but will not run down the batteries as it is running. Maybe a cheap alternative.
Posted 2007-03-25 7:53 PM (#57766 - in reply to #57764) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Member
Posts: 28 Location: Portage, IN
Originally written by stef73433 on 2007-03-25 7:13 PM My truck has a manual tranny. I dont think a remote starter would work with the clutch needing to be pushed in would it?
I did a quick search for "remote start manaul diesel" and it brought back some saying for auto and manual transmissions, with diesel option...so I am ASSUMING they will work. You best bet is to get one installed from a local place like a automotive sound place or BestBuy with an auto shop for stereos. They will know exactly what is needed (at least they SHOULD) if they dont carry it they can order it probably. ***Also I am assuming this would work for you, I would think that if your ignition is on for your truck, it is sending power to your trailer, I dont have a trailer with batteries so I dont know if the power is sent to the batteries ONLY or if it also goes through the trailer for load lights and interior lights and stuff. On mine it is only a 2H BP so no batteries or LQ and the hot line feed is just to the trailer for lights. If your trailer batteries take the hot feed, then you may just discharge the trailer batteries running, a high juice item, faster than the truck can recharge them, even then the truck should feed what ever is taking the juice. At least I hope. But yes they do make remote starters for diesel manual transmission trucks.
Posted 2007-03-28 4:10 PM (#57947 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Member
Posts: 8
IF THE PLACES YOU WILL BE CAMPING HAVE ELECTRIC HOOK UPS THE ONLY THING THAT YOU NEED TO DO IS HAVE YOUR TRAILER WIRED. I'M DOING THE SAME THING TO MY TRAILER RIGHT NOW. I HAVE INSULATED IT AND HAD A BREAKER BOX PUT IN PUT WITH OVER HEAD LIGHT AND 3 PLUGS. I'M NOT FINISHED WITH THE TOUNGE AND GROOVE BUT HAVE CAMPED OUT OF IT ON TWO DIFFERENT WEEKENDS. WE RUN AN ELECTRIC HEATER TOASTER AND GEORGE FOREMAN GRILL WITH NO TOUBLE. JUST PLUG THE CORD FROM BOX TO POWER POLE. I THINK I HAVE SPENT ABOUT 150 DOLLARS SO FAR BUT I DONT HAVE TO CHARGE ANY BATTERIES OR LET MY TRUCK RUN. HOPE THIS HELPS AND THE HAIR DRYER WAS IMPORTANT TO MY WIFE TOO.
Posted 2007-03-28 6:35 PM (#57951 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Regular
Posts: 76 Location: WI
I rarely will be where I can plug in. The hair dryer is not important either. It was just an example!!!LOL!!!!So I will still need to do the batteries or generator. I may set up a plug in tho so that when I am at a big show I can plug in. Good thought tho. Thanks!
Posted 2008-01-07 4:52 PM (#73949 - in reply to #57947) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Member
Posts: 7
I wanted to add 120 wiring to my DR conversion, and I'm at that stage of completing the paneling. Can you briefly explain your 120 cord instalation ? Where'd you buy it ? I already have 12V wiring. Silly question - Horse camping & RV power poles...the same ?
Posted 2008-01-07 6:57 PM (#73966 - in reply to #73949) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Veteran
Posts: 216 Location: Chillicothe, Ohio
Your question was somewhat answered on another post. I'll give you my input. You can wire up an extension cord to plug in your trailer to 120vac two ways. First either wire up the cord directly to a small ac breaker box located somewhere inside your trailer and cut a hole in your trailer wall outside of say your boot box and just pull your extension cord out through the hole when you need it..push it back in when your done. YOu can install a small hinged door that is available at most any rv suppler store or online to seal up the hole when your not using your plug. The other way is to install a 30amp twistlock bulkhead connector in your wall. On the inside if the trailer this plug is permanently wired to your ac breaker box. The outside has a hinged cover that screws tight to seal up the connector pins. You can purchase a rv 30 amp service cable that has the twistlock connector on one end and the 30 amp plug on the other...these are available in various lengths...15', 25', 50' etc. This type cable disconnects completly and you store the cable. If you have any rv or trailer dealers close to you give them a visit and look at how the rv or trailer is finished out. Thats the easiest way.
Posted 2008-01-08 9:09 AM (#73984 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Veteran
Posts: 196 Location: WI
stef, you will NOT want to run much of anything in your trailer from the batteries in your truck. Dead truck batteries are no fun. Also, running dc (battery) power to your trailer is easy, but it won't power much more than lights and maybe a small tv. Any small appliances will drain the batteries in short order.
The EASIEST way to power the lights in your trailer is to install a deep cell battery to the area under the gn, wire in a male 7-blade rv plug (or 6-pin camper plug, whatever matches your trailer). Unhook umbilical from truck, plug into new plug that is wired to the battery. Now your lights will work. Also install a battery tender (harbor frt - $10) and an on/off switch (hrbr frt - $6) to the battery. When you get home, plug in the battery tender and this will keep your battery optimally charged.
You'll want to have your battery box and the corresponding plugs/switch/tender all enclosed in a box - find a custom welding/fabricating shop to make/install one.
How much will this cost? Depends on what you can do yourself, but allow for $100 for a good deep cell battery, and $100 for a fabricated box, plus labor, plus what I mentioned above.
Posted 2008-01-08 9:48 AM (#73989 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Veteran
Posts: 171 Location: Henderson, TN 38340
The Battery box can be an aluminum tool box from Home Depot. I mounted mine side ways under the gooseneck. The lid folds down and I added cable supports to hold it parallel to the ground. I wired my deep discharge battery in line with the power feed from the truck. The battery is charged from the truck battery when I am on the road. I have also added a power converter that will provide the 12V power when I am hooked up to 120 and this also charges up the battery. My web site is attached.
Posted 2008-01-08 9:50 AM (#73990 - in reply to #73989) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Veteran
Posts: 196 Location: WI
Originally written by Turfa on 2008-01-08 9:48 AM
The Battery box can be an aluminum tool box from Home Depot. I mounted mine side ways under the gooseneck. The lid folds down and I added cable supports to hold it parallel to the ground. I wired my deep discharge battery in line with the power feed from the truck. The battery is charged from the truck battery when I am on the road. I have also added a power converter that will provide the 12V power when I am hooked up to 120 and this also charges up the battery. My web site is attached.
Posted 2008-01-13 6:18 PM (#74341 - in reply to #73989) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Veteran
Posts: 296 Location: Tennessee
Originally written by Turfa on 2008-01-08 9:48 AM
The Battery box can be an aluminum tool box from Home Depot. I mounted mine side ways under the gooseneck. The lid folds down and I added cable supports to hold it parallel to the ground. I wired my deep discharge battery in line with the power feed from the truck. The battery is charged from the truck battery when I am on the road. I have also added a power converter that will provide the 12V power when I am hooked up to 120 and this also charges up the battery. My web site is attached.
Hello Turfa. I am interested in doing this on my Logan trailer, but this link does not go anywhere (says "page cannot be found"). Is there another link that shows how you did this?
Posted 2008-01-13 10:12 PM (#74354 - in reply to #57252) Subject: RE: Trailer wiring/conversion advice
Veteran
Posts: 171 Location: Henderson, TN 38340
Sorry to all who went to look at my web site. We have changed providers and the time on the web site has expired. I will have to redo the web site. Please email me and I can forward the pictures to all.
Trailer wiring/conversion advice
