It is offically COLD in Ohio these mornings...yuck! We just bought a C&C LQ and the water tank is full, I think it is 50 gallon. We currently have the trailer plugged in and plan on using it through January if not all winter. Do I need to do anything with the tank to keep it from freezing? Should we just drain the water until we go to use it again? Sorry if this is a dumb question....first timers here..LOL.

Also, is it odd that there is no outside water spiquet? Wouldn't it make sense to have one? Would it be hard to install? Were would I take it?

Thanks!

Once the weather produces sub freezing weather, you will have to winterize your trailer which involves purging your water system and installing anti-freeze. If you do not, the water lines under your cabinets and flooring will freeze and split, causing expensive repairs. Just draining your tank will not accomplish what you need to do. Your trailer warranty will not cover water damage from freezing.

Your owner's manual should explain the procedure, other threads posted on this forum are also helpful resources.

I've read where some owner keep heat in their lqs during the winter. If you were to use your trailer often, this might be a possibility. If you have a power failure, you have a problem.

There is no easy solution that I know of, if you plan on using your water system during the winter.

Installing an outside spigot is not difficult. It can be a DIY or an easy small job for a plumber.

BOL  Gard

http://www.rvsecrets.com/winterize.htm

http://www.thecampingsource.com/item/RV__Winterizing_a_RV/id/561/category.aspx

http://www.gonecamping.net/stories/winterize.html

Remember to SIZE your extension cord based on length of cord and electric draw of the appliance...

Here is a simple calculator for you...

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Or you may be dealing with a whole new set of problems...

Is this not a fire risk???

I guess I'm just a weenie, but we live in an OLD farmhouse without central heat/air. We have dearborn heaters and space heaters and won't even leave one of those running if I am leaving the house.

If you really want to use your LQ all winter, you can winterize your trailer in about 10 minutes if you buy an extra water tank, and a 12 volt water pump. Total cost should be less than $100 mount the tank and the pump to a piece of plywood, fill it with anti-freeze, and pump it into your trailer through the city water connection. This way you don't have to flush your fresh water tank, of the anti-freeze. I use it to winterize everything from horse trailers, 5th wheel, sea-doos, and even my boat(hooked up through the ear muffs). I couldn't live without it.

First drain water heater, bypass it if possible, turn on pump and go open faucets till it runs pink, same with shower and don't forget the toilet. Less than 10 minutes.

Yes, the pink stuff, I winterize everything with it. Including my boat and sea-doos. Sorry for not being clearer.

The problem with a ceramic heater, is that heat rises. An a lot of the pipes are on the floor or they penetrate through the floor. Which will be the absolute coldest spot in the trailer. Even with a heater running, The floor can be cold enough to freeze.

Most of the plumbing in modern LQ is made from PEX (plastic pipe) PEX will tolerate water freezing in it. It will expand and recover after the freeze. What usually burst is older style copper pipe, the fittings, and or items such as the water pumps and water heaters. Most of these items are located under the couch on the floor. Most floors are not insulated and they usually have penetration where the drains go through the flooring.  Also in the drains that use ABS black plastic pipe, which is more brittle and will burst the "P traps" when they freeze.

In Texas where a cold night is high 20's, Yeah maybe the ceramic heater will work. We spent last week here, with night time lows are around 0* and daytime highs of 16*-20*.  If I had water in my system it would be frozen.  As a builder I have to be careful not to place water supply lines in exterior walls of homes that I build.  Even with a water pipe in a 2x6" wall full of insulation and a warm interior of the home on the sheetrock side, we still see frozen pipes during the January freeze.

Some RV's and Campers offer Winter insulation packages. These heat the waste water tanks, add insulation under the floor and make sure the placement of pipes is not close cold surface areas.  It helps for those who use their units year round in cold climates.  But the average LQ does not have this.

I would suggest you look at your local weather. If you have temperature drops below 26*-28* for extended periods. I would drain the water and fill with the pink RV antifreeze.

Another way to quickly purge the water lines of water is to use compressed air. Anyone with an air compressor can purchase an adaptor that will allow the introduction of air into the curb part of the water system.

Air is forced into the plumbing which displaces the water. The faucets and toilet are purged as you would with antifreeze. An adaptor fitting usually costs less than $5. You must not exceed your water system's operating pressure with the compressed air pressure. The water tank still has to be drained each time you want to winterize the trailer.

For those people who are constantly using their equipment and supplying a heat source to alleviate freezing, this is an ideal way, and much less expensive way, to eliminate the need for constant antifreeze changes.

This process is commonly used in the RV and marine communities and works quite well.

BOL  gard

Now that I am thinking about it...I don't think my hubby ever drained the hot water heater! ARG! I know he attempted too but didn't have a rachett (sp) big enough to get the bolt off. Is this going to cause more damage? Can we do anything now? It was 25 below with windchill this morning...

I would drain the water heater as soon as possible. Unlike your trailer's plumbing which involves flexible hoses, your tank is rigid. If the water freezes inside, it can expand and ruin the heater. When your husband purged the system he closed the water heater by pass valves. This traps water in the heater. If you can't remove the drain, grab the anode with a pair of pliers, anything to get the water out.

Gard