Here's one I did with RV headliner and a recessed mirror above the bed.

Here's one with real copper panels with rusty stars recessed into soft touch ceiling.

Here's one I'm doing now with imitation copper backsplash panels on a soft touch ceiling.

HBar... you do some nice work!...  Do you build the cabinets yourself, or are you purchasing unfinished cabinets.  If they are unfinished purchased, would you reveal your source? 

I've been working on getting my small DYI LQ finished and have been shopping around for a good buy on cabinets.

I do build some myself, but most of them are unfinished from Home Depot, not all HD's have cabinets. Out of the 5 stores within my driving distance, 2 of the stock the cabinets. I have a shaper and the tooling to build a cabinet door with the same profile as a HD cabinet. The trailer I am doing now will have only 1 door that I made. I use the Kreg system to make the frames, very easy. Thanks for the compliments.

HWBar 

As soon as I win the lottery I'm sending my trailer to you.  I guess I better start playing it hua?

I don't know what brand they are, as far as the particle board vs real wood. Have you looked at a "factory LQ" they are particle board covered with a sticker to look like wood, They seem to hold up, these cabinets that I make/buy are way better quality than anything you'll see in a "factory package" they are real oak fronts with veneer sides, as far as the weight I would think that particle board would be lighter than real wood, although that is not a concern when I build one. I build them to be nice first, light second.

Bar,  I sent you a PM regarding your work but I want to dovetail on all of the other comments about how nice it looks.  Is a DYI weekender package something you would recommend a novice trying? Obvioulsy I would have to have someone else do the plumbing and electrical (if I get that far). Are there books I could read to get me started.  I'm fairly handy if I take my time and concentrate REAL hard...  This may be a basic question but can cabinents be mounted directly to the aluminum ribs of a trailer or should a frame be built to accomedate them??  Maybe I should let a professional do it..... Again, great work!!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, I use 1/2 ac plywood for the walls that way I can attach a cabinet anywhere I want to, or anything else for that matter. If useing wallpaper I use a different grade than if I'm doing soft touch walls. I still consider myself DIY as I only do a few a year and one of them is usually my trailer. I try to build one a year to sell for myself. I should be done with the one in the bottom picture by Christmas.

The soft touch wall material is available thru Jazz Sales they will set anyone up as a dealer so long as they have a tax number. I had my local tack shop become a dealer and I buy from them, they don't mark it up to me because I set them up, I would say you could buy from them also and Jazz would send it straight to you. The soft touch wall material comes in a 60' roll and is 54" wide. so if you are putting it on your ceiling it has to go in pieces from left to right, or you have to split the center with something i.e. copper. RV surplus is another source for stuff and they will ship to you, most of the RV things I need I buy from the local RV dealer so that warranties will be covered by them. They give me a little break but not much. Thanks for the compliments.

I believe that Larry Dennis Company will see to the public. You will pay a much higher price than a OEM or dealer but they will sell to you. Unless they have changed their policy. Their contact # is 1-800-772-7542. They carry a very large variety of vinyl and western fabric. You can probably go to your local trailer dealer and look at samples from them. Solid wood is much stronger and lighter than any composite wood product. If you want a lighter weight wood try Pine. Oak is a much harder wood and weighs a lot more than most other woods that you use in a package .Problem is you can't find a pre-fab pine cabinet any where that I know of. Most trailer packages are small enough that if you want a solid wood package you can find a cabinet maker some where to make you some and it shouldn't brake the bank. Your over head cabinets should be made solid because of the weight it carries and the fact that they are mounted up to the ceiling and upper wall. The lower cabinets are sitting on a solid surface and don't have to be a strong.  Just my $ .02.

Good Luck

Sorry... That was suppose to say Sell the anyone, not see to anyone. Woops

That's kind of odd they are in bussiness to sell stuff, if you are interested in something they have let me know and I'll see about getting it for you.

Most places that sell cabinets have an "upgrade", whereby you can purchase a cabinet with a plywood carcass instead of MDF. The face frames and doors are usually a hardwood of your choice. This option is not a large increase, as you're only paying the material difference, with the labour being unchanged. We recently did this at Lowes, with a maple kitchen for my daughter's house.

Depending on the size of the LQ, the weight difference in cabinets might only total 100#s or so. With the exception of end cabinets, very little of the carcass is exposed to wear during usage. Combined with the relatively infrequent times the LQs are used , you have to determine if the up cost is worth the additional strength and lighter weights.

I've rebuilt several campers and found the only problems using MDF for cabinetry, was when the manufacturers used it for face frames and drawer fronts. MDF requires different screws and attaching hardware for fabrication, and the joints will fail if not properly assembled. For example, it will not hold a wood screw used for attaching a hinge. The screws will invariably strip out. The other problem is abrasion, where a scratch or gouge will penetrate the photographic veneer covering, exposing the bare MDF underneath.

I don't think most people will have a problem with this material. With a majority of buyers looking for the best prices, this is a common construction practise.

BOL  Gard