Any of the invertor generators will produce clean power that your electronics can use.

Most 13,500 btu A/C units use 1800 watts.  Check your unit to see if it's difference.  That's usually the peak wattage to start up. They will use less to just stay running.

That said, if you have a A/C and a 1200 Watt Microwave, you are at the max for a 3000 watt generator.

The bigger the generator, the more money and the more they will weigh.

I bought a Yamaha ef2400 i.  It's an invertor technology. 2400 watts.  it weighs 72 lbs vs 138 for the Honda 3000.  So I can pick it up by myself and put it in the truck or move it away from the trailer.  If you are mounting it to the trailer and leaving it there, who cares what it weighs.  If you use it other than your trailer, the 1/2 the weight makes a big difference.

I rarely use A/C, But if I do, I shut the A/C off while I run the microwave. It only takes 30-60 seconds to warm up dinner,

There are numerous folks here using the Chinese built generators.  They speak well of them. They considerable cheaper than the Honda-Yamaha products.

Look at your budget, How you will use the unit (permanent mount or moveable) and how much power you reallyu need at any given moment. And then choose.

Exactly as Painted said above.

Mine is the Kipor 3500ti.

For what it's worth, I run a Yamaha EF3000iseb. Does a good job for us the year round. Search this forum and you will find alot of info on portable generators. Go to http://www.rv.net/forums   then search under the "tech issues" section, you could read for hours.

as much as i wanted a honda generator i just couldn't afford it. i purchased a coleman 3500, and while it is very loud and heavy, i am happy with what it can do. i ran the a/c and microwave at the same time and it handled the load with no problem. instead of just turning the a/c on high at the start, i turned the unit to fan and then up to the a/c. [so there was no huge surge]

the a/c ran for about 6 hours before i had to fill up the generator with gas.

while mine is a portable generator and i keep it in the tack area, i have to unload it and run it outside the tack area. it is as i stated heavy and i couldn't come up with a ramp for it to load and unload. so i found a door taken from the inside of our home, it turned out to make a nice ramp and i can roll the generator in and out with little problems. i then keep the door in one of the stalls when i travel.

good luck.

rodeo rudy 

I would put it outside. You don't want carbon monoxide posioning.

they are put back there a good deal of the time........have a carbon monoxide detector in the LQ, making sure it is good to go whenever you use the generator...that is how ours came set up..

The 5000 unit was not $350 LOL, it was more like $700...I have a big unit for the house, this is south florida hurricane alley.. This 3500 unit from Cummings, is actually a Honda, painted in Cummings colors with their name on it from what im told. It is very quiet compared to most, and have had it over 2 years now with absolutely no problems what so ever. It's heavy, but not so heavy i cant load and unload it by myself if I have to...and I neverrrrrrrrrrr run it IN the trailer

Yes...you can get carbon monoxide poisoning...even with open doors...check out the following NIOSH report....http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/carbon2.html

Important CO Poisoning Prevention Tips

• Never use a gas range or oven to heat a home.
• Never use a charcoal grill, hibachi, lantern, or portable camping stove inside a home, tent, or camper.
• Never run a generator, pressure washer, or any gasoline-powered engine inside a basement, garage, or other enclosed structure, even if the doors or windows are open, unless the equipment is professionally installed and vented. Keep vents and flues free of debris, especially if winds are high. Flying debris can block ventilation lines.
• Never run a motor vehicle, generator, pressure washer, or any gasoline-powered engine outside an open window, door, or vent where exhaust can vent into an enclosed area.
• Never leave the motor running in a vehicle parked in an enclosed or partially enclosed space, such as a garage.
• If conditions are too hot or too cold, seek shelter with friends or at a community shelter.
• If CO poisoning is suspected, consult a health care professional right away.

http://www.bt.cdc.gov/disasters/cofacts.asp

CO poisons primarily by tightly binding to hemoglobin in the blood (forming carboxyhemoglobin), replacing oxygen, and reducing the oxygen-carrying capacity of the blood.

I think my concept of running it in the rear tack with the rear door completely open is different than running it completely inside the trailer.  With the exhaust pointed out, and the door completely open, I don't see how this is any different than generators with an exhaust pipe that ports to the outside of the trailer.  And, there is the rear tack divider, three horse stalls and the mid tack with a sealed bulkhead wall separating the LQ from the generator.  Its not like I am proposing running the generator in the mid tack that does share air space with the LQ.  And I do have a CO detector in the LQ part of the trailer.  I've seen many trailers with a generator permanently mounted in the rear tack.  How is this any different?  If anything, my setup would have more ventilation since I plan on leaving the rear tack door completely open.