Posted 2011-06-18 7:32 PM (#134949) Subject: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420 Location: Iowa
I was wondering about my trailer brakes. It seems Im using more truck brakes than trailer brakes. When I manually push on my brake controller it will hardly slow the rig down. Now I have a 06 3/4T Duramx and pull a 3H feathlite GN. I guess I feel I should have more braking support from the trailer than I do. When I manually apply the trailer brakes shouldn't I feel that its a least trying to stop the rig?
Posted 2011-06-18 8:57 PM (#134954 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Expert
Posts: 2689
Originally written by sinful on 2011-06-18 7:32 PM
I was wondering about my trailer brakes. It seems Im using more truck brakes than trailer brakes. When I manually push on my brake controller it will hardly slow the rig down. Now I have a 06 3/4T Duramx and pull a 3H feathlite GN. I guess I feel I should have more braking support from the trailer than I do. When I manually apply the trailer brakes shouldn't I feel that its a least trying to stop the rig?
Some do, some don't.
First turn your brake controller up all the way and try again.
OK, if that doesn't work there are 3 types of electric brake adjustment.
The oldest and cheapest is manually adjusted, sad to say these ARE still being used on NEW trailer builds.
They need regular adjustment with a "spoon" through a slot in the backing plate.
IF you are having the trailer "serviced" regularly this should be included as PART of what you are paying for.
Next is "reverse self adjusting", these cost about another $4 or $5 per wheel and depend for their adjustment on being applied while backing up.
SOME drivers don't use their brakes in reverse, they drive very slowly and when they want to go forwards again they slip into neutral, maybe pause until the rig stops, then slip into drive and go.
Their brakes just don't automatically adjust.
The best choice (short of electric over hydraulic or vacuum over hydraulic discs) is forward self adjusting.
As the name implies, these adjust every time you slow or stop, they cost about the same as reverse self adjusting.
If you have FSA and they are getting weak they are probably about done.
If you have either of the other types get FSA the next time your tech says you need a whole brake job.
It is a simple DIY job and well under $200 for four whole backing plate, shoes, magnet assemblies.
Posted 2011-06-21 8:33 PM (#135023 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420 Location: Iowa
I turned up the brake controller all the way. Didn't get much more stopping power. I guess I had better take it to the trailer shop and have them adjust them for me. I know I'll feel better about them doing it than me. Thanks Reg.
Posted 2011-06-22 10:02 AM (#135043 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Regular
Posts: 95 Location: Seattle "pshaw, its not raining hardly at all!" WA
when I got my first trailer, the trailer salesgal said that the reason my trailer brake controller didnt really impact the truck much was that the trailer was small enough that the big truck outweighed/out powered it.
was she blowing smoke?
(2 horse gooseneck trailswest steel trailer (4590 lbs empty) on a 96 dodge ram 3500 dually diesel)
Posted 2011-06-22 11:25 AM (#135044 - in reply to #135043) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
Originally written by ornerie on 2011-06-22 10:02 AM
when I got my first trailer, the trailer salesgal said that the reason my trailer brake controller didnt really impact the truck much was that the trailer was small enough that the big truck outweighed/out powered it.
was she blowing smoke?
(2 horse gooseneck trailswest steel trailer (4590 lbs empty) on a 96 dodge ram 3500 dually diesel)
Yes.
Figure 4600 lbs or so behind a 7 to 8 thousand pound truck is going to make a BIG difference to slowing/stopping if the trailer brakes are at all weak.
It is all about that old f=mA thing from way_back_long_ago
If your trailer has little/no effect on your truck's stopping ability then your brakes are in fair/good shape.
Do the arithmetic with a little BrenderUp trailer behind a Hummer.
Don't scoff (-: , even a 2,000 lb trailer with NO brakes makes a BIG difference to the stopping distance of a HEAVY truck.
I think the States that allow no brakes on trailers under a certain capacity (typically 3,000 or 3,500 lbs) or brakes on only one axle need to re-examine those regulations.
That is a whole 'nother subject.
Posted 2011-06-22 2:56 PM (#135048 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 455 Location: Texas
If turning the controller up did nothing, or nothing appreciable, there may be bigger problems than just needing to adjust the brakes. I had a similar problem recently. When I took the brakes apart I found broken wires going to the magnet in two of the drums. One of the wheels had gotten grease in the drum sometime in the past, and the shoes were ruined. Also, when I replaced the magnets on the two that needed it, the arm had been stationary so long that it didn't want to move, so I had to clean it up to make it move freely again.
Also, I would bet that it is possible for the magnets or drum face to wear so much that the magnet doesn't stick to the drum well enough to actuate the brakes with much power.
My brakes appear to be the non-adjusting type Reg mentions, but I just adjust them yearly, or whenever I take the brakes apart to inspect them or the bearings.
Posted 2011-06-22 3:17 PM (#135049 - in reply to #135048) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
ONE good place to look at pictures of some brake types is the Dexter web site.
Once you have a mental image of the FSA type pull a drum and look at your own.
If there is no cable running up from the adjuster - sorry, you have manual adjust brakes.
I am CONVINCED that the couple of hundred bux (or so) that is charged for an annual "service" doesn't REALLY include pulling the drums, inspecting magnets, checking for grease on linings, or anything much else.
They MIGHT pump a couple of shots of grease into the zerk fittings on the end of the spindles, but I doubt that they do much else (at MOST places, there are almost certainly exceptions to this).
So... I do it all myself.
This way I know what has been done, that it has ALL been done and that it has been done right.
Posted 2011-07-03 3:39 PM (#135357 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420 Location: Iowa
I have some braking power with the trailer, but not Like I should. I see that I can Manually adjust them. Can I use a bigger screwdriver for this or do I need the "spoon" that you talk about. And how tight should I adjust them? Till I can't turn the tire by hand without the brakes on, or is that too much?
Posted 2011-07-03 5:31 PM (#135360 - in reply to #135357) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Expert
Posts: 3802 Location: Rocky Mount N.C.
Originally written by sinful on 2011-07-03 3:39 PM
I have some braking power with the trailer, but not Like I should. I see that I can Manually adjust them. Can I use a bigger screwdriver for this or do I need the "spoon" that you talk about. And how tight should I adjust them? Till I can't turn the tire by hand without the brakes on, or is that too much?
From Tekonsha Site:
Appendix A: Trailer Brake Adjustment** Brakes should be adjusted after the first 200 miles of operation when the brake shoes and drums have “seated” and at 3000 mile intervals, or as use and performance requires. The brakes should be adjusted in the following manner: 1. Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity jack stands. Follow trailer manufacturers recommendations for lifting and supporting the unit. Check that the wheel and drum rotate freely. WARNING Do not lift or support trailer on any part of the axle or the suspension system. 2. Remove the adjusting hole cover from the adjusting slot on the bottom of the brake backing plate. 3. With a screwdriver or standard adjusting tool, rotate the starwheel of the adjuster assembly to expand the brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the pressure of the linings against the drum makes the wheel very difficult to turn. Note:With drop spindle axles, a modified adjusting tool with about an 80 degree angle should be used. 4. Then rotate the starwheel in the opposite direction until the wheel turns freely with a slight lining drag. 5. Replace the adjusting hole cover and lower the wheel to the ground. 6. Repeat the above procedure on all brakes. WARNING Never crawl under your trailer unless it is resting on properly placed jack stands. Follow the trailer manufacturers recommendations for lifting and supporting the unit. Do not lift or place supports on any part of the suspension system
Posted 2011-07-03 6:48 PM (#135362 - in reply to #135357) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
Originally written by sinful on 2011-07-03 3:39 PM
I have some braking power with the trailer, but not Like I should. I see that I can Manually adjust them. Can I use a bigger screwdriver for this or do I need the "spoon" that you talk about. And how tight should I adjust them? Till I can't turn the tire by hand without the brakes on, or is that too much?
Screwdrivers CAN work, but it is a bit easier with the "right tool", especially if you are new to this.
I used to adjust them until they just started to drag.
Then apply/release them to re-center them and until they drag again.
Repeat until the apply/release doesn't remove the slight dragging, then back off a couple of clicks.
{"used to", all my trailer brakes are self adjusting now (-:}
TIP;
To adjust for more braking you need to get the direction of turning correct.
The tool needs to "lift" the back edge of the little star wheel to rotate it.
So put the end of the tool in, raise the other end, bring it towards the star wheel, engage, bring the end of the tool DOWN towards the ground.
2nd TIP;
Sitting on the driveway doing this, then getting up to go to the truck 2 or 3, maybe 4 times to apply/release the brakes for every wheel... can get tedious.
I used to run a long length of speaker wire (2 strands) from the brake breakaway switch to where I was working.
With the trailer unplugged from the tow vehicle I clipped a wire to each side of the breakaway switch and every time I wanted to apply/release the brakes I would short the two other ends together for a couple of seconds.
Posted 2011-07-03 6:58 PM (#135363 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
Doncha just HATE this 3 minute limit on editing ?
I was BACK IN doing the edit within 30 seconds, but it must have taken me more than 2 1/2 minutes to edit and re-submit.
Anyway, I had meant to say that using the brake breakaway battery like this is an incidental test of the breakaway battery.
It SHOULD hold enough charge for 15 minutes of full power (legal requirement) so you won't burn it up with a few 2 second brake applications.
Posted 2011-07-03 7:07 PM (#135364 - in reply to #135363) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
3rd tip:
Once you have adjusted them go for a little test ride.
Within a 1/2 mile stop and feel each drum, they should all be cool - as long as you haven't made any HARD stops.
If one is a bit warmer than the others it is probably dragging a bit.
A SERIOUSLY dragging brake will get quite hot within a few hundred yards, so you don't want to get out on the highway to figure this out.
HOT brake drums are likely to warp and CAN have other problems, so this is worth catching before it becomes an issue.
Posted 2011-07-03 8:21 PM (#135365 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420 Location: Iowa
Thanks Reg and you guy's for the help. Got them adjusted with some help from the Neighbor. Your right running back & forth was almost too for one person. Its started raining here, so i haven't took it for test drive yet. They were really out of adjustment. Again, Thanks
Posted 2011-07-03 8:47 PM (#135367 - in reply to #135365) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
A minor comment on the post that Retento made - from Tekonsha.
The way we drive when we tow horses GENERALLY requires less braking effort than "most" other trailer users.
We probably hold back more from other vehicles, we read ahead somewhat farther so that we don't have to use brakes as much.
If we didn't there would be many more flat nosed horses (-:
For this reason I think the 3,000 mile interval may be a bit short for most of us, 5,000 would probably be OK in most cases.
Posted 2011-07-04 11:52 AM (#135372 - in reply to #134949) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420 Location: Iowa
I always pull my trailer with great caution. Didn't realize how far out of adjustment they were untill we were coming home from a Trail Ride and a couple of cars in front of me decided they both wanted the center lane at the same time. I saw what was going to happen and actually started braking before the car in front of me did. Thats when I realized I wasn't going to have enough brakes. Shame on me.. should have had they adjusted way before. I could have been right in the middle of a wreck.
Posted 2011-07-04 4:04 PM (#135374 - in reply to #135372) Subject: RE: trailer brakes need adjusting?
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Posts: 2689
Originally written by sinful on 2011-07-04 11:52 AM
I always pull my trailer with great caution. Didn't realize how far out of adjustment they were untill we were coming home from a Trail Ride and a couple of cars in front of me decided they both wanted the center lane at the same time. I saw what was going to happen and actually started braking before the car in front of me did. Thats when I realized I wasn't going to have enough brakes. Shame on me.. should have had they adjusted way before. I could have been right in the middle of a wreck.
Not to read too much into your post, but it sounds like the MAJOR reason that I gave up driving in the "travel" lane.
At my normal cruising speed of 60/62 if I am in anything but the "slow" lane on a more than 2 lane highway I get passed on BOTH sides and as you pointed out that can be a problem when it is BOTH sides at the SAME time and each one decides that they then want the lane I am in.
So these days I use the slow lane just about all the time.
I still get passed on both sides at the same time, there is no shortage of ramp racers.
One will squeeze in as the ramp becomes the breakdown lane (or soon after) and the second one will go around back, then see the headlights in their mirror and cut in front.
Every so often they have forgotten that the other one is racing around the other side of the big slow horse trailer and there is a "Near Ooops" right in front of me.
trailer brakes need adjusting?
