Posted 2010-12-19 4:53 PM (#128185) Subject: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Member
Posts: 44 Location: albany, ga
I have a F350 and received a notice from Ford that my truck is due to have the auto transmission fluid flushed. I have never done this before, is this needed and if so at how many miles?
Posted 2010-12-19 5:46 PM (#128188 - in reply to #128185) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
I assume for a moment you're referring to automatic transmission fluid. You're going to hear a variety of opinions on this. The "flush" part of this fluid change is contentious because in some cases people have claimed their transmission began running poorly and they blame the power flushing process for the problem. (I happen to believe they waited way too long for service and the dirty fluid helped mask the developing problem.)
In any case it's very important to change transmission fluid on a regular basis, especially hardworking tow vehicles. Most transmissions also have a filter that is worth changing. I think most factory manuals recommend this every 60k. I err on the side of caution and do it every 30k. Since the power flush machines aren't cheap and don't seem to help I do a DIY service by draining and refilling two times since draining the trans pan only gets about half of the fluid.
If you have a manual transmission I happen to believe strongly in a drain/replace (a single easy step) every 60k. This helps keep worn particles clear of the bearings and gears and if you replace with a synthetic oil you get better operation in the cold.
Posted 2010-12-20 9:46 AM (#128204 - in reply to #128185) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Expert
Posts: 2453 Location: Northern Utah
The Ford F350 Autotransmission use a synthetic fluid. That's fairly pricy. Filling and draining twice probably cost more than the dealer fees. I have mine done at the dealer every 30,000 miles
Posted 2010-12-20 7:42 PM (#128224 - in reply to #128204) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
Originally written by Painted Horse on 2010-12-20 9:46 AM
The Ford F350 Autotransmission use a synthetic fluid. That's fairly pricy. Filling and draining twice probably cost more than the dealer fees. I have mine done at the dealer every 30,000 miles
I paid $9/qt for Amsoil synthetic ATF for a total of under $150. The dealer charges about the same for their fluid plus the labor of running the machine which totals around $250. Of course all things vary feel free to price both. In my case I got the Amsoil for a competitive price and I feel that for a tow vehicle, ATF is the most critical fluid in the truck. JMHO.
Posted 2010-12-21 3:18 PM (#128244 - in reply to #128185) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by uffan831 on 2010-12-19 4:53 PM
I have a F350 and received a notice from Ford that my truck is due to have the auto transmission fluid flushed. I have never done this before, is this needed and if so at how many miles?
The flush usually involves some kind of a cleaner going into the transmission to dissolve varnish and to dislodge the buildup of particles. As the transmission works, the gears touch one another and wear small particles away and those collect in the crevices and nooks in the housing and pan.
A fluid change means the old fluid is removed and new fluid is replaced.
There can be two different types of fluid changes: One is where the bottom of the transmission is opened, the fluid is drained out, and the filter is replaced. The second type is when a machine is connected to the "cooler lines" (explained below) and All the old fluid is exchanged for new.
Some transmissions have a small radiator that is located near the engine coolant radiator. The fluid from the transmission circulates through lines and goes from the transmission to the radiator and back to the transmission, it helps to cool the fluid. When the bottom of the transmission is opened and drained, there is still a lot of fluid in the inner passages and torque converter of the transmission- so not all of the fluid is changed out. When a flush is performed, the old fluid is removed from the "cooler lines" and the new fluid is added through them, so all of the old fluid is taken out.
Posted 2010-12-21 3:26 PM (#128245 - in reply to #128185) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Expert
Posts: 3802 Location: Rocky Mount N.C.
I pull the drain plug out of the Allison, drop what fluid thats in the pan, change the spin on filter, refill with 8 quarts of Dextron. I do this every 15,000 miles. It's 10 years old and just shy of 100,000 miles, no slips and no drips.
Posted 2010-12-21 6:25 PM (#128249 - in reply to #128245) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406 Location: Minneapolis, MN
Originally written by retento on 2010-12-21 3:26 PM
I pull the drain plug out of the Allison, drop what fluid thats in the pan, change the spin on filter, refill with 8 quarts of Dextron. I do this every 15,000 miles. It's 10 years old and just shy of 100,000 miles, no slips and no drips.
I'd really hope a person could never touch the thing and get a 100k out of it. I change the fluid and filter, on the Fords every 60k, and I gotta say, the bulk of the build-up on the pan magnet is on the first change....after that minimal.All will agree changing is cheap insurance....but the real question is when. And the when depends on a few things, but the major one is if you've had the trans over heated and burnt the fluid.
Posted 2010-12-21 7:53 PM (#128250 - in reply to #128249) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by wyndancer on 2010-12-21 7:25 PM
Originally written by retento on 2010-12-21 3:26 PM
I pull the drain plug out of the Allison, drop what fluid thats in the pan, change the spin on filter, refill with 8 quarts of Dextron. I do this every 15,000 miles. It's 10 years old and just shy of 100,000 miles, no slips and no drips.
I'd really hope a person could never touch the thing and get a 100k out of it. I change the fluid and filter, on the Fords every 60k, and I gotta say, the bulk of the build-up on the pan magnet is on the first change....after that minimal.All will agree changing is cheap insurance....but the real question is when. And the when depends on a few things, but the major one is if you've had the trans over heated and burnt the fluid.
The service schedule is 25K if towing and 50K if not. If its a new vehicle, the external filter should be changed at 5K then continue with the appropriate schedule.The Allison does have an internal filter as well,but it never needs to be serviced unless the tranny needs an overhaul.Don't buy the external filters at GM they run about $25. Find an Allison dealer and they'll run about $7.
Posted 2010-12-21 8:20 PM (#128252 - in reply to #128185) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Regular
Posts: 69 Location: TEXAS
I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.1. Things you need to get started:a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON or MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements. Don't use MERCON SP, it is not good for these transmissions. MERCON has been discontinued by Ford and is getting a bit harder to find. MERCON V has been changed to be compatible with these transmissions.b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.2. WARM UP THE TRANSMISSION!3. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.4. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine.b. While the engine is running in step 4a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF.5. Repeat steps 4a and 4c until you have added 19 quarts. When you add the 19th quart, stop. Don't run the engine again.6. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.7. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.8. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.9. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:Optional: Change the tranny filter.2. After stopping the engine and before adding fluid, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, and install the pan. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.Optional: Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 4b, then cut off the engine.Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to step 3 above.It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 4.This is from Mark Kovalsky ford trans engineerThis is copied from powerstrokenation.comIt is the flush procedure I use on my trucks.I also run shaeffers synthetic ATF in mineI do not reccomend the power flushing machine, I have had friends with first hand problems with this.
Posted 2010-12-22 8:46 AM (#128258 - in reply to #128185) Subject: RE: Flushing auto transmission fluid
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406 Location: Minneapolis, MN
I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
1. Things you need to get started: a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON or MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements. Don't use MERCON SP, it is not good for these transmissions. MERCON has been discontinued by Ford and is getting a bit harder to find. MERCON V has been changed to be compatible with these transmissions. b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. WARM UP THE TRANSMISSION!
3. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.
4. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket. a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. b. While the engine is running in step 4a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches. c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF.
5. Repeat steps 4a and 4c until you have added 19 quarts. When you add the 19th quart, stop. Don't run the engine again.
6. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
7. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.
8. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
9. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:
Optional:
Change the tranny filter.
2. After stopping the engine and before adding fluid, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, and install the pan. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable. I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Optional:
Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:
If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.
If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 4b, then cut off the engine.
Optional:
Blow out the coolers. Add the following to step 3 above.It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 4.
This is from Mark Kovalsky ford trans engineer
This is copied from powerstrokenation.com
It is the flush procedure I use on my trucks. I also run shaeffers synthetic ATF in mine, I do not reccommend the power flushing machine, I have had friends with first hand problems with this.
Flushing auto transmission fluid
