Posted 2010-12-12 12:05 PM (#127977 - in reply to #127960) Subject: RE: How to winterize trailer w/ living quarters?
Veteran
Posts: 201 Location: Lincoln, NE
My solution was to find a very helpful RV dealer with a service dept. The service manager and workmen were the best. They patiently explained everything involved. A great resource.
Posted 2010-12-12 12:42 PM (#127979 - in reply to #127960) Subject: RE: How to winterize trailer w/ living quarters?
Member
Posts: 47 Location: Hookerton, NC
I found some info on previous posts, but I'm not familiar with which valve does what etc? not sure what is pressurized and what is not? Not sure how to cut HW valve off or where it is even located? guess I'll have to fiqure something else out. thanks for your help.
Posted 2010-12-12 5:12 PM (#127989 - in reply to #127979) Subject: RE: How to winterize trailer w/ living quarters?
Expert
Posts: 3802 Location: Rocky Mount N.C.
Originally written by NCcowgirl on 2010-12-12 1:42 PM
I found some info on previous posts, but I'm not familiar with which valve does what etc? not sure what is pressurized and what is not? Not sure how to cut HW valve off or where it is even located? guess I'll have to fiqure something else out. thanks for your help.
Better get with it.... Suppose to be 16 here on Tuesday morning, 15 Wednesday morning, 18 Thursday and you're not far south of me.....
Posted 2010-12-12 7:35 PM (#127991 - in reply to #127960) Subject: RE: How to winterize trailer w/ living quarters?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420 Location: Florida
Winterizing is as simple as buying two or three gallons of RV anti freeze. The antifreeze has to be sent thru all of the water pipes.
Not thru the HW tank and not in the fresh water tank.
Typically inside the trailer the HW tank is accessible. And generally HW lines are Red and cold water lines are Blue. In the back of the HW tank are two lines entering top and bottom red and Blue (cold water in HW out). generally there is a set of valves that divert the water from entering the HW tank and into the two lines forming a loop removing the HW tank from the system.
Set the vales so this occurs.
Before you do this make sure you have opened a faucet in the hot and cold water loop to relieve pressure.
Similar valves are also found someplace near the water pump. They generally allow the system to be drained out onto the ground both H and C and the Fresh water tank.
Find these.
Drain you fresh water tank on to the ground.
You can either hand pump with an RV antifreeze pump the pink liquid thru the kitchen faucet enduring that pink fluid runs out the shower hot and cold fills the toilet when flushed (Don't forget the sprayer if you have one) Or you can purchase and attach an RV bypass valve for wintering. (Sold at all RV stores)
I like this method. All you do is insert a tube into the pink gallon turn on your pump and open each water source until pink flows.
Flush the toilet several times to ensure the Pink gets into the Black water tank. Leave Pink in your toilet bowl.
Now here is my trick. Once your lines are full and Pink has gone thru the H and Cold water lines and down the drains. (@ 2 gallons) Put an empty gallon under the trailer at the drains and pump the pink liquid back into the gallon. (use as your first gallon next year)
I also prop open my refer to avoid Mildew.
Now for the HW tank. Very important to be careful these can be under pressure.
Never fill Pink RV antifreeze into your HW tank or Fresh water tank.
There is a large nut/plug near the bottom on the outside of the trailer behind the trailer access panel.
Get a large socket with extension, Or the wrench used to work on sink faucets.
Remove this bolt. I like to open the relief valve to avoid a shower if the tank is still under pressure.
This is the Anode rod and drain plug.
It will remove easily once you get a some bit of turn as it wedges in.
I use a small hose and fresh water once the plug is out to rinse sand and debris fro the HW tank.
I leave the anode rod and plug in a safe place till spring. Generally in the kitchen sink. Or by a new one if the anode metals are more than 1/3 deteriorated.
I like to use a small wire brush and an air compressor to clean and blow out the fire chamber.
I WD-40 all hinges. door locks and anything else that can rust corrode or freeze up.
O remove my batteries and put them in a warm place for winter. Being careful not to short out and blow the main fuse (Next spring you'll be posting why my 12v sys does't work :-) )